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Upgrading or installing a motorcycle stereo takes special considerations. Understanding what is involved with the configuration and demands of your stereo is the first step.
When replacing factory components, a wiring harness adapter is always recommended. This will allow you to put your stock components back in, and more importantly it won't void your factory warranty. When harness adapters are not available, they can easily be made.
A simple speaker upgrade is generally more involved than one would think. Most stock motorcycle stereo systems operate at a different impedance level than your common aftermarket speaker. Installing a pair of 4 ohm speakers in a system that requires 2 ohms will do damage to your stock radio and/or your new speakers. Another thing to keep in mind when replacing speakers, is the available power to drive the speakers. Although it is possible to add larger speakers with the use of speaker adapters, your factory radio may not have enough power to run them. Lastly but equally important, when selecting your new speakers be certain they will be able to withstand the elements. A paper cone speaker will not last long when exposed to any water. For this reason, marine grade equipment is always preferred.
The addition of an aftermarket head unit or receiver will generally provide more power to your speakers, provided your speaker impedance matches your new stereo. The major down side of replacing that stock radio is that in most cases you will also lose the hand control functions for the stereo.
For these reasons, we have found that the best way to to achieve better sound quality and more volume with the least amount of headaches is with the addition of an aftermarket amplifier and upgraded speakers. Using this configuration makes it easy to match your speaker impedance to your amp, retains the use of your handlebar controls, keeps the stock appearance, as well as adding plenty of power for larger speakers.
The installation of an amplifier consists of two key steps, mounting and wiring. With very little room to spare inside a fairing, a small amplifier will be needed. Stay away from digital amplifiers, as they generally provide more distortion than power. It is also important that your bike's electrical system is able to provide the extra power that is needed.
Fabricating a mount that holds the new amplifier in the area above the radio usually works best. Mounting it directly to the radio can cause additional heat, excessive vibration, as well as extra stress on the radio and it's mount.
The wiring of the amplifier is fairly straight forward. The connection from stereo to amplifier can be made with a standard hi-lo converter installed. The ground wire should be attached independent of any other ground wires (to neg. terminal on battery). The amps "remote power on" wire can be attached to an accessory wire in the fairing, make sure this power supply is switched to be off when the ignition is off. Running the power wires will take the most time and care. The wires must be routed cleanly to the battery with a fuse placed inline within 8 inches of the pos. terminal on battery. The speaker wires are attached in a standard fashion.
This brings us to the rear speakers. If your bike came equipped with rear speaker it probably has a factory amplifier as well. This will make upgrading easy. Simply upgrade the amp and speakers with the factory wiring. If you plan to add rear speakers there are several options. You could replace your bag lids with aftermarket speaker lids which have the speaker openings molded into them. The other option is to place the speakers in the bags. This will work well only if the bag is ported. We generally port them on the tire side of the bags.
When installing rear speakers,adding an amplifier to power your speakers will net you the best results, as the stock head unit will not provide enough power to drive the rear speakers. All of the connections are similar to that of the front amp and speakers. If the head unit is only a 2 channel system you will need to connect the speakers to a hi-lo converter that will be attached to the stock front speaker wire. It is also possible to add speakers and/or an amp to the rear tour pack. This is done in the same way as side bag speakers.
Now that we have covered the basic concept of the stereo upgrade, it is important to mention the risks. Poor installation can cause damage to the bike's electrical system, damage to the stereo equipment, and even damage to the bike it's self. With that in mind, if you are not extremely confident in your ability to get the installation done properly, professional installation is recommended. The money you will pay to have the job done right will be way less than repairing a poor installation job.
Author: Jody Swartley: Serious About Sound LLC is fully insured and offers a secure shop location. This allows us to offer piece of mind to our customers when leaving their custom car, motorcycle, UTV, RV, or boat for services. Boat owners, we do make marina calls for larger craft needing our specialized marine services, as well as on site services for RV dealers.
We offer the best names in AV equipment which gives you the widest possible choices for your car, truck, motorcycle, UTV, RV, marine and residential systems. Serious About Sound is conveniently located at 2096 Route 212, Coopersburg Pennsylvania, but we serve clients throughout the New York, New Jersey, Delaware and Maryland areas. Please visit us at http://www.seriousaboutsound.net/
Should you by the same used engine?
It is time to replace your car engine if you think it isn't working efficiently as compared to the past. If you are on holidays and thinking of going to some other city or spot for a picnic or vacations and you have to cover a considerable long distance. Then don't even try to go that far with your old engine without getting it repaired or replaced. Limit your picnic budget and spend it on your car (actually that is also the part of your picnic budget). Now think what best can you do with your car so that it becomes ready to go for a long drive. If you have decided that your engine needs a complete replacement then go and get a used engine.
Choose the same manufacturer:
Now you have decided that you want to buy a used engine. But all you know about used engines is that they are cheap and perform well for several years. Actually, that is all you need to know and there is nothing else you should consider about a used engine. The most important step you have to consider while buying a used engine is that make sure the engine you are going to buy will fit in your car perfectly and there will be no compatibility issues with other car parts like wiring and steering to tires connection. You will always be suggested to buy a used engines of the same manufacturer that made your car. The reason for this suggestion is that the whole car is designed to work more efficiently with its manufacturer's engine.
Make sure the engine is registered:
Make sure or get sued. More than 30% engines coming in the market are stolen engines. Someone steals the car and sells its engine. When you buy that engine without confirming from the manufacturer that whether this engine is willingly sold or it is a stolen one then you can get in very much trouble in no time. At any time when your car will be checked by some police man at a checking point in your country and he will find that the engine you have in your car is the engine of the car which was stolen few days or few months ago then it is time for you to face the trouble you knowingly stepped into. Your car will be taken in the custody by the police or any traffic warden and you will be facing continuous problems like heavy fines of stealing the engine. This is your duty to inform the police that some shop is selling stolen engines.
You still have a small choice:
Choosing the same car manufacturer's engine doesn't mean you have to buy the engine of the same car model you own. Get a good used engine of the latest model of the car series you own. For example if you own Honda Accord 1995, you can go and buy a used engine of Honda Accord 2005 and get it fitted in your car.
About the Author
My friend Barkan have sound knowledge of car parts and used engine you can visit his site to know more about used engines.
1978 NC50 Honda Express will not run...help!!!?
The problem is that sometimes, I stress sometimes (2 out of ten), I can get the bike to start by having choke all the way out, putting my hand over the carb intake but as soon as I release my gas covered hand from the carb the bike dies. I have adjusted the carb to specs via manual l but I cant get it to run. There is an emulsion tube that I have tried to clean within the carb, but I cant get a small thin wire from the bottom of that tube all the way through to the venturi. It is said that this tube should be passive. I am not sure this is my problem but I can only assume that could be it.
I have not tested the compression but I just replaced the rings when I put the bike together last week.
Are there any other things I could look for/at?
The exhaust is clear and there is plenty of fuel getting to the carb.
Can someone please help me with this? Thanks!
I have a Honda express myself but its the 82 version with the auto choke. But it definitely sounds like a lack of air getting through the carburettor to the cylinder. Did you try cleaning all the jets of the carb?
If you have an air gun try blowing through each jet. If not get several strands of fine copper wire and twist them together and if there is any blockage in the jets, force it through with the copper wire. Good luck, I know it can be a pain when it doesn't start. Also just as a precaution, check the throttle slide, the needle, and the choke.
TortoiseSVN Project at Subversion Live
SAN RAMON, Calif.----WANdisco, the makers of Enterprise Subversion with active core developers from the project on staff, is pleased to announce that the lead developers from the open source TortoiseSVN project have agreed to participate in the upcoming Subversion Live conferences taking place in the US and UK during February, 2011.
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