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Like your vehicle's engine and transmission, the A/C is comprised of several components. Each has a specific job to perform in order to cool the cabin of your car. If any single part fails, the entire assembly will either perform intermittently (e.g. alternating cold and warm air), or stop working altogether. The challenge is narrowing down the culprit.

Identifying the root causes of problems you're experiencing with your air conditioner requires having a basic understanding of its operation. In this article, we'll take a brief tour through your car's A/C. I'll explain the role played by the individual components and describe a few reasons the assembly may be working poorly.

How The Assembly Works

The driving force is the compressor. It pushes pressurized Freon (type R134A) in a gaseous state into another component called the condenser. The condenser turns the gas into liquid form before sending it to the receiver-drier, another component in the system. The receiver-drier is where the liquid Freon is stored. It is also where moisture is removed (moisture can freeze and cause an obstruction in the system).

The refrigerant remains pressurized within the receiver-drier until it is delivered to another component known as the thermostatic expansion valve. This is the point at which pressure is removed from the liquid Freon. It is then sent to the evaporator where it transforms back to a gaseous state.

Inside the evaporator, the chilled Freon absorbs heat from the cabin. At the same time, a blower fan pushed cold air into the cabin, cooling it. The refrigerant, still in gas form and now heated from the absorption process, is circulated back to the A/C's compressor. There, the cycle stars over.

Exploring Potential Problems

The A/C's operation is simpler than it seems. Problems that affect its performance, while inconvenient, can usually be uncovered with a little investigative work.

One of the most common culprits is a refrigerant leak; in fact, this is where most mechanics begin looking for a root cause for cooling issues. Leaks can occur in several places, including the seals, hoses, O-rings, and the individual parts (e.g. evaporator and condenser). As you would expect, the older your vehicle is, the more likely leaks will develop due to normal wear and tear.

Assuming there is no seepage of Freon throughout the system, diagnosing problems will depend on whether there is no cool air or just an insufficient amount. If there is no cool air coming from your vents, the issue could be a failing drive belt, compression clutch, or a fuse that has blown. It might also be traced to a malfunctioning thermostatic expansion valve or a blockage somewhere in the system.

If you can feel cool air coming out of the vents, but it's not cool enough, the problem might be linked to partial blockages, a failing compressor clutch, or even a low charge of Freon. It can also be due to a loose-fitting drive belt that's failing to adequately power the compressor.

In nearly all cases, problems with your vehicle's A/C are best left in the hands of an experienced mechanic. Not only is pressurized refrigerant dangerous, but a trained mechanic will have the diagnostic equipment needed to quickly find the culprit.

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The real Cost of Turbo Conversions

Turbo kits are also available for certain cars so you can get all the complete parts in one package. The problem with that however is you lose all sense of customization and the turbo kit may not give you the best value for your money. These kits cost ranges from $2000 to $4000 depending on the type of car, what the kit contains and if you will install it yourself or have a professional install done for you.

Converting your car from non-turbo performance to a turbo car performance in a proper way would cost thousands of dollars. Why is this? This is because you would have to replace almost everything within the engine bay when converting your car from a non-turbo to turbo. First, you would have to choose an engine and the possibilities here would be endless. If you choose to stick with what you have and it would most likely be an aspirated one then you would have to adjust the level of compression level within the engine to 7.5:1 so that your engine would be able to handle the heat and the pressure that turbo boost would generate. You would have to purchase stainless steel valves for the cylinder head to attain durability and forged pistons and total-seal rings to ensure reliability and performance. Not to mention having the car's fuel management changed to fuel injection.

After preparing the car for turbo conversion and installing a turbo charger then you would have to purchase a lot more parts. Not only would it be a source of a head ache because there are so many to choose from, but it would also be very expensive. You would have to buy a waste gate, fabricate a turbo exhaust manifold, boost controllers, boost valves, compressor by pass valves and inter cooler pipe work to name a few. Fuel injector parts are also usually upgraded. This is why it is tempting to just partially carry out a turbo conversion on a car; this however may result in you spending even more money than just properly converting the non-turbo car into a high performance turbo car.

The true cost of turbo conversion is high, but the value you get for your money in terms of performance gain is just as high too. Turbo kits can give you a good turbo boost but it would be a rare find to be able to purchase one off the shelf. Having a custom kit for your car is also a good idea. Just remember when you are in doubt of spending all that money that a well built; properly turbo charged car would give the owner the performance of a life time out of his or her car.

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1994 honda accord oil leak?

ive recently noticed an oil leak on the right side almost in between the tranny and the engine. last time i changed my oil i noticed it and now it is slowly progressing. can anyone help me? its not coming from the top of the engine because ive changed the cam seal, and valve cover gasket not to long ago.

possibily the main seal is leaking

1998 Oldsmobile Bravada from North America - Comments
I have a 98 with 112k. The transmission has slipped occasionally since I bought it at 72k miles. I had a transmission service done and it stopped for quite a while. The check engine light comes on intermittently, and I know the bank Oxygen Sensor needs to be replaced. Now the door is busted.

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