Transmission Drain Plugs

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Transmission Drain Plugs
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Getting your oil changed is something that the pros promise they can do in a jiffy, however, with every three thousand miles you drive, the price can add up quickly. You can save yourself some money by doing it yourself. An oil change is not as hard as you may think!

Prior to changing your oil, you will need to pick up some supplies at you favorite parts store. The first thing you will need is six quarts of oil. If your car manufacturer recommends a certain type, you should stick with that. Otherwise, choose a brand you know and trust. (Note- do not mix oil. If you have a quart or two of one brand already at home, make sure you purchase additional quarts of the same kind.) With every oil change, you should always change your oil filter as well. So, you will also need to pick up an oil filter for your particular car. In addition, you will need an oil pan to empty the old oil into. Your best bet is to purchase one that can seal so that you can easily take it to be recycled. And, if you don't have one already, you could use an oil filter wrench.

After you purchase the necessary items, you are ready to start the oil change. First, elevate the vehicle off the ground using your car jack, just enough to access the underside of the engine. (Note: For added safety, make sure you are using a jack stand.) Remove the oil fill cap on the engine. Then, get underneath the engine. The oil pan covers the entire bottom of the engine, and this is what you will be draining from. Find the engine pan drain plug, which is shaped hexagonal (six sides). Place the oil pan you bought underneath. Next, use a socket wrench to loosen the drain plug. The oil will start to come out. Let this drain completely. Once drained, replace the plug and tighten.

Next, move the drain pan so it is under the oil filter. Use your oil filter wrench to rotate the filter counter-clockwise until it comes off. Once loosened, you'll need to unscrew it from the engine with your hands. Once off, place in the oil pan- oil will drip out from the filter. Now, it's time to put on the new filter. When you remove the new filter from the box, you'll see a rubber gasket on the base. A good trick for easy removal in the future is to coat the gasket thoroughly with oil. When that's done, screw the new filter onto the filter pipe tightly.

At this point, you're done underneath, so you can let the car down. But first, get the oil pan and any tools out from under the vehicle. Next, fill the engine with five quarts of oil and put the cap back on. Then, check the oil level. You should see that it's one quart high, and this is just because the filter is not yet full. Next, start the car and let the engine idle for about five minutes. This will allow the oil pump to pick up the new oil, and get it circulating. Also, check under the car to make sure the filter is not leaking any oil. Then, you can shut off the car and check the oil level once again. This time it should read, "full."

You're done! Just repeat these instructions in 3,000 miles!

Michael Walker is a freelance author providing tips and hints on engine related topics such as JDM motors, used import engines and engine swaps. His articles are a valuable source of information for the auto enthusiast.

Torque converter failures because of traffic jitter - torque converter, jitter - Automotive repair and maintenance industry

For automatic equipment Transmission Of the vehicle, locking clutch failure on the vehicle will have a great impact. The common fault with the clutch lock: Lock the clutch can not be joint, not separation, bonding and spin so bad. The failure phenomenon varied, so grasp the working principle, characteristics and analysis of failure is very important. Service Officers have been to a Ford Wind Star 1996 models cars. When the vehicle, the high speed of vehicles produced jitter, gives the engine feels like jitter and committed the same seat. According to car speakers this fault has been repaired many other repair shop, engine replacement parts on a lot, but the failure did not improve the situation a bit.

First to road test the vehicle in the 40-80km / h no pattern of occurrence between the jitter. First tested on the engine, but found fault. Consider at this time may be other factors. Then connect the computer Detector Read the data stream, found that when locking clutch (TCC) bonding, especially when they take Taiwan to the 40% -60% of the time, the vehicle will appear chattering. Thus determine the bad fault is caused by the combination of TCC. But which part of node sets bad turn, caused it? Point of failure may lie in electrical control, hydraulic and mechanical systems which part. Of course, there are special circumstances, such as when the throttle closed, the imposition Brake , Emergent accelerant, or rapid deceleration, shifting, oil temperature lower than 60 temperature is too high and help block the following gear in 3 and so on, as they lock when the clutch is not bonding.

Locking clutch engagement and separation from the computer (PCM) through the locking clutch (TCC) solenoid to control rooms. Computer according to throttle position Sensor , Speed sensor, turbine shaft sensor, gear, gear shift and brake switch time signal analysis, to the TCC solenoid valve to provide duty cycle signal, change the TCC solenoid valve opening to control the clutch action. For the TCC's work, the computer is through the engine speed and the turbine shaft (input shaft) for monitoring the speed difference. When the lock does not work the clutch, the engine speed to be greater than the turbine shaft speed 200-300r/min; the lock clutch engagement process, the difference between the speed should be gradually reduced; when locking clutch is fully engaged, the two The speed difference should be almost zero. Thus, we can observe the engine speed and turbine speed (input shaft speed) to determine the difference between the state and clutch work good or bad. Lock in determining the number of clutch engagement can not be separated or not failure, can also be connected to the transmission detector (a solenoid valve can control the work of the inspection tools), disconnect the computer on the transmission of control, people control the clutch solenoid valve work to determine the control part of the fault, or the operative part of the fault. If the artificial control of the work of the clutch solenoid valve failure is still there, indicating no problem with electronic control part. If the fault lies in the electronic control section, the impact of the TCC should first check the work of the various sensors signal is normal, then check whether the PCM signal by the sensor to work properly, the final check wire connection is good.

On the hydraulic part of the fault, can be judged by measuring the oil pressure to. So this car was the transmission oil pressure test. Road test, the jitter appears in the TCC engagement and did not find the volatility of oil pressure and abnormal. To further determine the existence of this transmission failure of hydraulic parts, and installed under the valve off to test the template, using compressed air for testing. The results showed that the TCC and the hydraulic valve body manifold works well, the hydraulic part of the fault may be the basic rule out the possibility.

As for the mechanical part, unable to disassemble, so only by the exclusion of other aspects of the failure to identify. Areas through the detection and analysis, maintenance personnel may determine the fault lies in the mechanical part only, namely the torque converter clutch lock.

Here to remind the general maintenance personnel, as unable to disassemble the torque converter, it should be noted in the maintenance of transmission, torque converter when the cleaning problems and prevent entry of foreign matter and damaged torque converter clutch lock. For oil drain plug in the converter, when the discovery of oil has changed when the oil drain plug should be open, flush with new oil repeatedly; to not put the oil plug converter, you can use high-pressure air cleaning methods inverted.
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I have a 2000 jeep wrangler automatic where is the drain plug for the transmission?

What you have is the 3 speed TF(Torque Flight) A999. No drain plug on your trans. You have to remove the transmission oil pan. The best and only thing to do is to take it down to a trans shop and have the transmission flushed. When a home owner drains their own trans oil they only get what is in the pan. There is still a GRIP of fluid left in the torque converter. This is why it is best to have it flushed because....well....its like a blood trans fusion.... out with the old in with the new.

One should have this done every 35K miles.

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