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The Model T Speedster didn't figure in Ford's line-up. In fact, in the early nineteen twenties there wasn't much in the way of sports models the ordinary working guy could afford. The name "sports car" was still in the future, and so was Ford's first V-8.

Human nature and human ingenuity didn't take long to turn the Model T ford's basic transportation into something a lot more exciting, though. So if you were around in 1920 and you wanted to make the Tin Lizzie hotter and wilder, just what could you do?

"Dyke's Automobile and Gasoline Engine Encyclopedia" tells you exactly what to do.

The best thing to do to the body was to just replace it with a raceabout type. You could build your own or you could buy "a complete outfit of radiator, hood, floorboards, rear gasoline tank, and body" for around $100.

The new body wasn't just for looks; it made the Model T go faster by making it lighter, cutting down the frontal area, and streamlining it. Bodies could be just a cover over the engine with bucket seats out in the open and the fuel tank and spare tires behind like the Mercer and Stutz, or they could be streamlined from front to back, with a nicely tapered tail.

Just changing the body could add 10 to 15 miles an hour to the top speed.

Sometimes it was necessary to remove a leaf from each spring because of the lighter body, and you had to lower the steering column because the new sporty body sat lower.

If the hot-rodded Model T Ford was to be used for race-track work only, the suspension could be lowered, and there were several ways of doing that. The best way was to have a new front axle made which effectively raised the axle spindles and lowered the front end. A cheaper method was riveting pieces of channel iron on the front of the frame, letting them stick out in front about 5 inches.

The back could be lowered by cutting off the side members in front of the rear axle and installing modified steel forgings.

Hotting up the engine was just as important as changing the body, and there was a lot you could do Ford's early four-banger.

Heavy cast-iron pistons didn't like to rev too high, so aluminum ones could be used. If you were financially challenged and brave as well, you could lighten the cast iron pistons by drilling holes in them! You could do the same to the con-rod, drilling holes in it and carefully dressing it with a file. (Don't try this on your car!)

Raising the compression wasn't hard. You could use an earlier cylinder head with shallower combustion chambers, or you could plane 1/8 inch of the existing cylinder head. You could even buy an after-market sixteen-valve high-compression head for the Ford Model T.

The breathing could be improved by using larger valves, and there were several types of high-speed cams available. For racing, stronger valve springs were recommended but they were noisier and likely to break valves, though you could buy tungsten steel valves as well.

A larger carburetor "say of the 1 ¼ inch size" and a larger intake manifold were both par for the course to get more power.

For a free flow exhaust the muffler could be removed for racing, and for road use you could remove the baffles or drill extra holes in them. To get that racing car rumble from the four-cylinder Model T engine, you could run the exhaust pipe into a larger cylindrical amplifying chamber, with a metal cap in the end with several holes drilled in it.

It was good practice to add an auxiliary oiling system and better cooling because of the extra power and higher revs. Better brakes were a must as well. The rear brakes of the Model T weren't that good, so you were looking at around $16 a set for the best aftermarket brakes.

For a moderate price your Ford Model T Speedster could most likely hit 70 mile per hour, and if you wanted to spend more money, you could pick up a few more mph.

So it seems our grandfathers and great-grandfathers weren't all that different to us when they were young. Nowadays young guys hot up engines, upgrade the running gear and change the bodies. Over ninety years ago, when my granddad had returned from the war to end all wars, young guys were hotting up engines, upgrading running gear, and changing bodies. The Ford Model T and the new after-market industry gave them the opportunity.

Warren Newson is editor of the classic car picture site motoring-classics.com and lawnmowercountry.com, where you can buy Murray lawn mower parts to keep your Murray mower in tip top shape.

Information on Resin Casting and the Process of Resin Casting

Resin Casting is a system of technical installation that is used in the process of casting resin. The process of Resin Casting is a complex process that is used in a variety of fields. The resin casting giver a high quality and precision to the product that is casted.

Need for Resin Casting: Resin casting is used to obtain a high level of quality and also precision in the dimensions of the product. Resin casting is basically used in the process of miniaturization i.e. the process of making things small. The process of Resin Casting is also used extensively the field of electronics. The electronics industries today resort to the resin castings to achieve the norms of total quality management.

The process of resin metal casting earned success and also gained popularity in the field of electronics because it facilitated the acute miniaturization process and also at the same time maintained a high level of quality. The electronics industry is a very demanding field in terms of quality and cost. Experts recommend that the process of resin casting is an ideal way to achieve the required quality and it also helps cut down the cost of production. The process is also highly productive and also reliable with respect to speed.

Industrial Applications of Resin Casting: The process of resin casting is basically used in the electronics industry. Resin Casting is used in the production of transformers, Liquid Crystals Displays more commonly known as the LCD’s. It also used in the manufacture of heavy electronic systems.

Important steps in Resin Casting: The process of resin casting is completed in basically five important steps. The first step is to condition the resin, and then the material is transported. After the transportation of the material the three most important steps are executed. First the material is metered, then the material is mixed and then finally it is dispensed.

Conditioning process: The process of conditioning in the resin casting evenly distributes the fillers ion the mixture. The conditioning also eliminates the moisture and air. It also makes the mixture constant, and also elevates the temperature of the mixture. The process of conditioning also maintains a low viscosity in the mixture. This process is very important for complex combinations as it intensifies the quality of the product.

Process of Material Transportation: In the process of transportation of the materials, the piston pumps, screw pumps, and the gear pumps are used. For the highly viscous substances, instead of gear pumps, follower plate pumps are used.

Mixing process: The process of mixing is extremely important as it obtains an equal and stabilized reaction through all the materials. The most commonly used methods in the mixing are the static mixing tube, the dynamic blender, and the dynamic static mixing tube.

Dispensing process: The process of dispensing is the most important process in the Resin Casting. In the dispensing process the dispensing unit and the movement of the part are relative to each other.

Resin is casted through various dispensing processes like the metering systems, or sometimes the dispensing is done in a vacuum. In the industrial to cut costs and also time multiple dispensing units are used.

About the Author

Go to Metal Casting Zone to get your free ebook on Metal Casting at http://www.metalcastingzone.com. Metal Casting Zone also has a Metal Casting Forum, Metal Casting Information, and a Metal Casting Blog that can all be found at http://www.metalcastingzone.com. Go to http://www.metalcastingzone.com to see the latest information on Metal Casting that has been added.

Would i have to worry alot about detonation in a 383?

I have a 1990 chevy 350 small block in my truck right now that i want to turn into a 383 stroker sometime and im curious about compression ratio compared to octane usage... In my state i have 87, 89, and 91, sometimes 93 octane and i want to get a compression ratio so that i wont have to run race gas and hopefully be able to keep my cast iron heads for a while till i save up enough to get aluminum heads..
Would i need to worry a lot if i got a 383 with a compression between about 10-1 to 11-1 compression running on pump gas (that would be with flat top pistons, stock cast iron heads, egr, 165* thermometer, etc)?

I would run a 195 thermostat, it really did better on mine. With the high compression, use at least 91 octane and you should have no trouble as long as the timing is good. Hope this was helpful.

NBA Eastern Conference Power Rankings
It's only the middle of July, but there has been a major shakeup in the NBA's Eastern Conference. The "Kings" of the East were the Cleveland Cavaliers, but not anymore. The top four have changed, now that the Miami Heat pulled off the unthinkable. So where do all 15 teams in the East stand now? What will their records be next season? Find out here! Begin Slideshow

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