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Springs are an important tooling component for providing tension and are an all around useful example of industrial equipment supplies. However, those little metal coils can be impractical to work with due to their small size, fragility, and tendency to slip out of the hand when under tension.

Spring plungers and spring loaded devices solve these issues by encasing the coils in a threaded body. These industrial products are then able to provide accurate tension forces in a robust component that is easier to install and has a longer service life. Let's take a look at how these industrial products work, their installation, and the different materials used to diversify their application.

Inside Of Spring Plungers

This class of industrial products uses a threaded housing and plunger assembly to enclose a spring. This design protects the coils while adding strength and stability to the entire piece. The plunger and housing design allows these industrial equipment supplies to outperform standard components by creating a precise end force with positive and controlled tension. Gone are the days of a spring under tension slipping away and being launched across the room.

The plunger assembly contains a polymer, usually nylon, locking element that holds the plunger in place. The coil is attached to one end of the plunger while the other end allows for regulation of the coil motion. This setup prevents lateral motion, similar to axial bearings, in order to prevent damage and poor operation while simultaneously ensuring reliable linear motion. During installation and servicing, tool forces are applied to the casing rather than a bare coil held under tension.

Overall, this design surrounding the coil increases the serviceable lifetime of this class of industrial equipment supplies while offering improved performance through consistent tension forces.

Installing And Using

Thanks to the threaded casing design, installing these products is significantly easier and quicker than working with bare coils. The assembly is easier to handle since bare springs have to be held under tension while being installed. On the other hand, spring plungers can be locked into place.

Spring loaded devices can even be installed with just a hex key wrench or screwdriver, but it is preferable to use a specifically designed spring/ball plunger wrench. The right wrench will speed up an already quick installation. Either way, be aware that spring loaded devices are hollow industrial products. They have a significantly lower torque resistance than a solid body screw or bolt. Exercise caution and refer to the manufacturer's instructions when applying torque forces. Otherwise, over-tightening a spring plunger can lead to snapping the casing or deforming the component into an unusable shape.

The locking element described above is included in many spring loaded devices, and this assembly will compress against the threads of a tapped hole when installing. When working with soft metals, like brass, bronze, copper, or aluminum, or soft plastics, be careful not to damage the tapped hole. The force can easily deform soft materials. There are industrial equipment supplies with tension coils that do not have a locking mechanism for this type of situation. If locking industrial products are required regardless, the best option is to tap a slightly larger hole in order to reduce the compression pressure.

Examining Materials Of Construction

It is very common to offer most industrial equipment supplies in a variety of different materials. Each option for construction materials can change the properties and specification of a particular component, allowing easier adaptation to different working conditions. Spring plungers are no different.

Steel and plastic are the two workhorses for these industrial products. Carbon steel offers a strong assembly at a reason price. This type of steel is typically case hardened for additional strength and then painted or coated to provide better corrosion resistance, since carbon steel is highly susceptible to rust in most environments. Stainless steel is also an attractive option with superior strength and resistance properties in moist or corrosive environments, or high temperatures. Stainless can be well worth the extra price.

Plastic alternatives are a viable option when looking for a spring plunger that will not deform softer metals. Copper, copper alloys, and aluminum can easily dent from the impact of a steel plunger. There are a number of polymer materials available, such as Delrin and nylon, which offer a strong hold and comparable tension force without creating any impact damage on adjoining materials.

In the end, spring loaded devices offer a reliable, safe, easy-to-install option for tension bearing components.

Greg Palmer is an author for Reid Supply, an industrial distribution company with a 60-year history supplying customers in all 50 states and over 40 countries with industrial products and industrial equipment supplies.

Screws, Bolts And Nuts Hold Industries Together!

Bolts, nuts and screws are basic hardware items used in every industry in need of fasteners. From furniture crafting and manufacturing to construction and building, every industrial application needs to use these important tools just to hold everything in place.

Screws, nuts and bolts are fasteners used to mechanically connect things together. A fastener may be defined as a mechanical device that holds two or more components in position. Ever since seeing the result of fastening the axle to the wheel, humans have been using fasteners to make lives easier. Most fasteners have threads as part of their design as can be seen in screws, nuts and bolts. Fasteners are produced primarily from ferrous metals such as alloy steels and carbon; they are available in brass, stainless steel, and copper. The process of making them involves rods, bars or wires which are cut to length and threaded.

Today we have reached a stage where a nut from one company and a bolt from another can fit perfectly together. They come in standard and Metric sizes for specific applications to fulfill wide variety of industry needs. Stronger, lighter and easy-to-use are some of the obstacles the fastener industry is facing and successfully managing. Laptop computers use these screws, nuts and bolts. Self-locking and self-sealing screws, nuts, bolts and threaded inserts have also become common. The latest challenge that we face in this day and age is of course, to produce environment friendly fasteners which do not use carcinogenic plating such as cadmium.

Custom fasteners are also used in holding all types of building materials together. A good fastener must be sturdy and durable, the right grade, so that they can take the stress it is made for. Titanium is custom made for the airplane industry because it is strong and lightweight. The military also uses customized fasteners and is specified by the government specifications and guidelines for the application.

About the Author

This article was written by GatewayFasteners.com an online leader for Nuts and Bolts sales.

How can I secure a machine screw in wood?

I am installing some very contemporary towel bars in a master bath - the final step of a lengthy remodel. The design is such that the heads of the screws are visible so we wanted something that was visually appealing. We chose stainless steel machine screws with a hex head. We've been using toggle bolts on the back. The problem is that there is one towel rack where when it's placed properly it's in front of a wall stud and you can't put a toggle bolt into a wall stud.

Does anybody know of a way to secure a machine screw into wood? Is there an anchor that will do this? I've tried looking for wood screws that have matching heads, but I can't find any wood screws with hex heads.

Thanks in advance for any help!

That is a tough one...

You could try a plastic anchor, I would test it out on a scrap piece of wood first and see if it will hold. Or, you could drill a small hole slightly larger than the screw itself, and fill the hole with 'Quick Wood' epoxy which can be found at Home Depot or Lowes, and insert the machine screw into the epoxy before it dries. The only problem with that method is though is that you will probably have a heck of a time removing the screw if you needed to. Again, the epoxy method could be tried on a scrap board first to see how well it will hold before drilling into the wall.

Having re-read your post, instead of a hex head machine screw have you thought about a hex-head lag bolt? If you can find a match you could just screw the lag bolt into the stud and it will hold without a hitch....

Good luck!

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