Socket Engine Bolt

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Socket Engine Bolt
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What you'll need:

Tools Required

-Axle Stands (EUR20 approx per set)

-Socket Set (EUR50 for an adequate set)

-Oil Funnel (Any motor-factors, EUR8)

-Rag cloths

-Metal Oil Drain Pan (Again any motor factors, ensure you have this placed accurately before draining the oil)

-Fresh Oil (EUR16, will vary with quantity and quality of oil)

-Some Common Sense in relation to car mechanics!

Prior to attempting an oil change, you must ensure that you have the appropriate tools (as listed above), which prove essential for performing the task successfully. You will need to invest in a set of Axle Stands, a socket set and oil drain pan.

Preparation and Safety:

o Starting your cars engine before draining oil is advisable. Warm oil will drain faster than cold oil, so let the engine run for ten minutes before progressing to drain the old oil.

o Make sure you have placed the car on a level surface. Engage the handbrake and get to work!

o When parked, ensure the car is supported securely, prior to crawling beneath the chassis. Do not attempt to start an oil change without secure support. After jacking the car up, place two Axle stands at the front to prevent the car moving.

o Make sure to consult your owner's manual or an automotive parts specialist to find out the weight of oil which caters to your cars requirements. Quantity of oil required will vary with differing cars and engines. Quality will rely on you; do you want to buy fully or semi-synthetic oil? Obviously expect to pay more for fully synthetic popular brand names.

o Always handle hot automotive oil with extreme caution, (wear appropriate gloves to remove plugs and basins by hand).

Draining old oil:

o Locate the oil plug for draining oil on the underside of the engine, which is usually to the front centre of your car. If you cannot find its location, consult your owner's manual. Once found place your oil pan/basin underneath the plug. Loosen the plug anticlockwise with a socket wrench, and remove by hand.

o The oil will drain into the basin, whilst this is happening hold onto the oil plug.

o Once the oil finishes draining, wipe off the oil plug with a cloth and the surrounding area before replacing the drain plug gasket. You can opt to replace the old gasket, though we advise you change it every time you perform an oil change

o Once fitted reinstall the drain plug slowly.

o Tighten with a wrench or socket. Be careful not to over tighten the plug, which may result in threading of the bolt head.

Replacing with fresh oil:

o Remove the oil filler cap on top of the engine (underneath the bonnet).

o Now place a funnel where the opening lies and pour in your new oil (3 litres approx, again check your workshop manual which will of course vary with engine size and type!). Once finished put the cap back on.

o Having poured in the new oil, start your car and let the engine run for around one minute. Stop the engine, check your oil dipstick (in close proximity to the oil filler cap) and add more oil if necessary.

o Once level is perfect, check around the oil drain plug for leaks. Wipe away excess oil with old cloths and take one last run around the oil drain plug area.

o Dispose of the old oil by placing in a plastic container and bringing to an appropriate disposal location (Motor garage, recycling area), do not just throw away!

Make sure to record the mileage at which you changed the oil, so for future reference you will know when the car is due another change. The universal figure for recommended change of oil is around ten thousand miles. Safe motoring!

Karl Connolly © 2006

Guide to Replacing An Oil Filter

Most drivers don't know how to change their car engine's oil. In fact it is a task that is needed after every 6000 miles or 6 months, whichever comes first. Many drivers drive with dirty and old oil which can result in engine degradation. It is not very difficult to change an oil filter and it can be done in DIY style, here is a simple guide. Follow the simple directions.

Things Needed
-    New oil filter
-    New oil
-    New oil cap
-    Container for old oil
-    Wheelie board
-    Jack
-    Axle stands
-    Spanner or socket set to fit sump plug
-    Chain wrench
-    Latex Gloves

Directions
Step 1:
It is essential not to do an oil change should within two hours time period of driving the car. Otherwise the dipstick will not show correct reading. A good idea is to run the engine with low revs for couple of minutes before thinning the oil and aiding the oil drain.

Step 2:
The car should be parked on a flat surface, this will ensure the stability of the jack.

Step 3:
Open the bonnet and remove the oil filler cap. It is usually made of plastic and is located on the engine block at the top. Check the air vents in the cap for any blockages and replace the entire cap if blocked.

Step 4:
Locate the oil filter and the sump plug. The sump plug looks like a bolt-head which is usually hexagonal facing downwards or sideways, it is usually located at the rear of the engine. In case these are easily accessible without putting the car on a jack, then skip the steps 5 and 13.

Step 5:
Now, the car has to be raised on a jack from the front end. Leaving the car's weight on the jack for any length of time is not recommended. Thus placing the axle stands under the front axles is important and is a double safety measure.

Step 6:
Unscrew the sump plug anti-clockwise with the spanner/socket set and make the container ready to catch the pouring oil. Keep your head away.

Step 7:
Rotate the sump plug taking it off by hand and let the oil drain down in to the old oil container. Keep observing the container as the oil flow likely moves. The drained oil should be disposed off properly.

Step 8:
The sump plug has a magnetic tip. The oil should be gently wiped off and observe it. If the tip has lots of small metal filings, this is a sign that the engine is degrading. There can be number of reasons for this including rust. Make sure the oil is frequently changed in future.

Step 9:
The oil filter has to be unscrewed anti-clockwise. Hands can be used but a chain wrench is mostly used.

Step 10:
Wipe a thin layer of oil around the rubber seal of the new oil filter for ensuring a perfect contact. Then screw the new filter and tighten it by hand only. Avoid over-tight.

Step 11:
The oil should have completely drained by this point. Replace and tighten the sump plug roughly one half-turn past with the spanner/socket set.

Step 12:
Now remove the jack and axle stands and bring the car back to a level position.

Step 13:
Now, locate and remove the dipstick, wipe off the old oil and replace it.

Step 14:
Pour in the new engine oil and take an interval after a pint or 30 seconds, then check the level of the dipstick. Continue pouring till the oil reaches the upper level on the dipstick.

Step 15:
Finally, replace the engine oil-filler cap.

Step 16:
Start and run the engine for few minutes to check the performance.

About the Author

You might want to learn how to replace an oil filter and also how to check car's oil level

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Need help with replacing thermostat on '99 Ford Ranger?

I have the 2.5L, 4-cylinder engine....I know where the 'stat's housing is and that it's attached to the block with two bolts, but only the right-most one is visible when I lean in from the top. Even if removed the fan and fan shroud, there isn't enough headroom flexibility to see the other bolt at eye-level. I've thought about buying a mechanic's mirror to gain better perspective and/or alignment for a socket wrench with an extension, but is there an easier way? What components can I remove (if any) to expose the other bolt and make this repair as trouble-free as possible? Any and all help would be greatly appreciated....

I can't visualize the exact setup offhand, but I can tell you this: Whatever it is that's blocking your view of that bolt should probably come off. I've done it to myself enough times to know that it's usually quicker and easier to remove 4 or 5 other parts than to try working around them. Think about this: If you manage to get to that bolt with some contraption of extensions and/or universals and a mirror, how are you going to put it back in?

2003 Ford Windstar SEL from North America - Comments
The CEL came on again after a few days: P 0174. It’s the isolator bolt issue and I fixed it. The original rubber isolator grommets are supposed to reduce the transfer of engine vibration to the upper intake manifold.

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