Screw Oil Cap

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Screw Oil Cap
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Vintage VW parts are still relatively easy to get, and the process for overhauling an engine, is easily managed, even by a novice. 5 reasons why I love the Vintage VW Boxer Engine are:

1. 4 bolts removes the engine from the car-one wrench 17 mm. Disconnect the throttle cable -1 bolt 10 MM. remove, and plug the fuel line - 1 screw driver. Disconnect heat exchanger dampers two cables - 10 MM wrench. Disconnect the wiring harness -2 wrenches, 8mm and 13 mm. Simply put a floor jack under the engine grab the tail pipes and pull toward the rear of the car.

2. Two people can lift the engine, and carry it to the work bench for repairs. The Vintage VW engine, fully assembled for installation weighs about the same is a good size out board motor for a boat. It's compact design make it convenient to move around, easy to access on a work bench, or on a lift.

3. It dis-assembles in an hour, to an hour, and a half. Disassembly begins with the Blower housing, and intake manifold followed by: the tinware. Tinware consists of the air deflectors that surround the cylinders, and heads, designed to deflect the air stream, to the rear of the vehicle.

The next step is to get the acetylene torch, and heat-treat the heat exchanger nuts so they can be removed without shearing the exhaust port stud inserts. Heat is preferable to penetrating oil, because it is efficient and quick. We know that exhaust system bolts rust, and that heat, or impact are the two most effective forces for freeing stuck, rusty, bolts, and nuts, quickly.

After the heat exchangers, and the muffler are removed, disassemble the clutch pressure plate, friction disk, and the belt pulley assembly. The fuel pump, and the distributer can also be removed. It is helpful to note the position of the distributor rotor, and mark the distributor housing where the rotor is pointing. This small tip will avoid installing the distributor 180 degrees of its proper location during re-assembly.

The cylinder heads are next. There are eight nuts with washers to be removed that hold the respective cylinder heads to the cylinder assemblies. The cylinder assemblies are sometimes referred to, in the vernacular, as jugs. To remove the cylinder assemblies there are a couple options. If the intention is to replace the cylinder assemblies with new, the cylinder sleeve can be just slid off the piston and discarded. If full replacement is the plan, the next step is to remove the piston wrist pin retainer springs, press out the wrist pins remove the piston and discard all of the components of the cylinder assemblies. If the plan is to reuse the cylinder assemblies, the process is a bit slower and should be accomplished with more care. When reusing, and reconditioning cylinder sleeves, compression rings, and pistons, it is important to keep the original assembly components together and matched until final disassembly, quality checking, cleaning and re-assembly. Slide the piston sleeve off, just enough to expose the wrist pin retainer springs. Remove the retainers and the wrist pin and the piston assembly will come off the engine intact. Place the assembly on the work bench, top side down to await reconditioning.

Once the pistons are removed, the oil pump, and oil screen are removed in preparation for splitting the crankcase assembly. Often referred to as the case, the crankcase assembly comes apart in two pieces.

The case is an aluminum alloy, so there are reasons to careful with this part of the disassembly. The case bolts are substantial, relative to the other bolts encountered in the vintage VW engine. The case is held together with several large studs, nuts, and washers, that surround, and support the torque of the crankshaft during operation. Numerous smaller studs, and nuts are strategically placed around the seam where the two halves of the case meet to seal the case. It is important to notice that the case halves are connected together without a gasket. That means the connecting surfaces are machined alike, so no oil or crankcase pressure escapes during operation. Do not pry the machined surfaces with a tool, like a screwdriver that might score the surface. If the surface is scored the engine will seep oil.

Finally after the case is separated the Crank shaft, and the Cam shaft will remain on one of the case halves, easily accessible for removal. It is important to note that there are two marks on the crank shaft gear, and the cam shaft gear that match as the gears are rotated. Make sure the marks are realigned when installing them during re-assembly. Remove both the piston rods, crank shaft, and cam shaft for cleaning, bearing replacement, and preparation for re-assembly. Note there is a metal cap at the end of the cam shaft that seals the oil galley when the case is assembled. Specific attention should note the proper installation of the end cap. One of the most common installation mistakes is to place the cap into the case backwards.

4. The Vintage VW air-cooled engine can be overhauled and reinstalled in a day

5. From a 40 Horse engine to the 1600 CC it pushed the beetle, Karmann Ghia, and the Micro Bus. The Mighty mini was not fast but it was consistent. However you consider this engine or buy Vintage VW parts for it, you will agree it is a little giant.

To learn more about buying Vintage VW Parts visit us today at http://www.Buy-Vintage-VW-Parts.com.

William Price is the owner of http://www.Buy-Vintage-VW-Parts.com where you can get up to date information, compare prices, shop multiple vendors and research additional ways to rebuild or simply maintain your older VW in tip top shape.

Auto Repair Tips - Changing your Oil

An oil change is not exactly the most expensive maintenance procedure in the world, but over the course of a few years, it adds up to a considerable amount. Learning how to change your car’s oil yourself can save you a few dollars and the time it takes to drop it off and pick it up at the auto repair shop. Plus considering how easy and fast (less than half an hour, usually) it is to change your oil, there really is no reason not to learn how. This brief guide will help you get started.

Preparation
Make sure the engine has cooled down. If it’s hot, wait a few hours. Park the car on a flat surface, carefully jack it up and place a piece of cardboard underneath in case of a spill. The materials you’ll need are as follows: oil filter wrench, ratchet, oil catch container, funnel, new oil filter, new oil, and an old rag.

Take out the old oil
First you need to drain the old oil from the oil pan beneath the engine. The oil is held in by a drain plug at the bottom of the pan. Place the oil catch container under the pan and then pull the plug to let the oil out. The screen in the oil catch should catch the plug and let the oil funnel through. Once the old oil is out, put the plug back in and make sure it is securely set, but not overly tight. Close the oil container and save it for recycling.

Remove the filter
Remove the old oil filter using the filter wrench. Remember to turn counterclockwise and be careful, as slippage can occur due to the slipperiness of the old oil. You must access most filters from the bottom of the car.

Install the new filter
Before installing, prep the new filter by lubricating the rubber gasket at the end of it with oil. Fill the filter up 2/3 of the way and screw it carefully in place. Only do so as tight as it will let you go if you’re using only your hand. Over-tightening it with a tool can cause damage to the filter.

Refill with new oil
Now, unscrew the oil fill cap (at bottom of engine) and place the funnel into it. Pour the new oil in through the funnel. Pour only ¾ of what the owner’s manual tells you to pour. If the manual says 4 quarts, for example, pour only 3 ½ quarts.

Your Done!
The only thing left is to check your oil to make sure it’s the right level and the put the oil cap back on. For more auto maintenance tips and for information on where to get a car tune up in San Diego, contact Robert’s Auto Service today!

About the Author

Ryan Frank is a 23 year writer and blogger living in San Diego, CA.

What kind of oil can I put in my car? HELP here are the specs

Its a 1994 Saturn 4 cyl.

The oil cap says some numbers some of which read 5w-30

However I checked the oil because my mother in-law who I am borrowing the car from says there is an oil leak, well it was bone dry. I called and asked because the rpms were getting a sticky feel to them. Anyways, The car is at my house, and I dont want to drive it, and there are no gas stations close, and the only one my gas station carries is 10w-40.
Would I be able to substitute this for the 5w-30? I know a little about cars but this is something Ive never dealt with before, and I dont get my new car for another month so if this one kicks the bucket im screwed!!!!! help please. If its totally not compatible i can find a ride MAYBE to get the proper stuff, I just wanted to know how the car would handle this without breaking anytime soon

Your car is a little older now...so the wear in bearings and the small gap or tolerance is not an issue now. The 5w30 your engine states should always be used when it's new...because heavier oil would not flow good...but now that it's older you'll be OK.

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