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The Victory motorcycles with the 5-speed transmission has gearing that is a little short. First gear is almost not usable and high gear is not high enough. This two teeth larger pulley makes your bike more user friendly.
The Victory 32 Tooth Overdrive Pulley. Fits All 03-05 Victor motorcycles and 99-01 Victory's with Upgraded Transmission. This pulley will decrease RPM by 7% and uses All Factory Parts. I decided to install this pulley on my 2004 Victory Kingpin and write up step-by-step installation instructions along with photos of the install. The photos can be seen at the Victory Kingpin Cruisers site at the following link http://www.kingpincruisers.net/coppermine/thumbnails.php?album=56. Below are my working notes for doing the installation.
I was doing other maintenance and decided to put the bike on a jack.
You do not need to remove the wheel. In fact you want to leave it on to help in the removal of the sprocket.
I removed the slip-on part of the exhaust first to lighten the exhaust.
Remove the belt guard.
Remove the right-side drive floor board so you can pull the exhaust off.
Prior to removing the exhaust.
Note the condition of the exhaust flange nuts.
The exhaust flange bolts may be rusted. Spray with WD-40 and let stand overnight to loosen them up.
After you get these flange nuts off, remove the exhaust.
Here is the Kingpin with everything removed.
Exhaust, belt cover, driver right-side floor board.
Not the wheel does not have to be removed. In fact it should be installed to help in the removal of the sprocket.
Removed exhaust. The slip on canisters are around here somewhere.
With the exhaust off, remove the sprocket pulley cover.
With the Sprokect cover off you now see the Sprocket.
Here I have the belt loose. You want it snug and the wheel on since this will be used as your resistence when removiing the spocket nut.
Another shot of the right side of the Kingpin completely stripped.
Remove the sprocket lock plate screws and lock plate.
Remove the sprocket lock plate.
The sprocket nut takes a 48mm socket.
The nut has been Loctited at the factory.
You can use either an Impact Wrench to remove. Heat it up to loosen the Loctite.
Here I am using my heat gun. It took about 10-15 minutes to where I could simply hold the rear brake pedal and remove the nut.
Let the sprocket cool down.
It will slide right off.
Next, clean off any left over Loctite gunk off of the sprocket rod threads.
After removing the nut you will have to loosen the belt to remove,and install the new pully.
The sprocket will slide right off after you loosen the belt.
Here is the lonely drive shaft in wait of it's new drive sprocket.
Stay tuned for more since this is all the further I have gotten. I need to now order the new sprocket.
Bike should be all the way tore down on the right side, Bags, Passenger Floor Board,Driver Floor Board and Controls,Side Cover for the Pulley,Belt Covers(top & bottom) and Belt removed. The worse part of the job was the Exhaust System, be careful with them. Here's a picture of the bike ready to start putting it back together. Now clean everything you have removed and clean the Engine and all areas that are exposed.
Grind the Tab that holds the Speed Sensor. Grind about 3/8's to 1/4" off the bottom of the tab but not all the way to the side of the engine block.
Keep trying the OD Pulley until it goes all the way on without hitting the Tab. The side pulley Cover will also need to be ground down to allow clearance for the drive belt. It will rub on the bolt sleeves.
Now install the Speed Sensor using washers of a thickness of about 3/8's to 1/4" put them over the screw hole and then put the Speed Sensor on top of the washers, stick the bolt in and tighten down.
Check wheel alignment and belt tension. With the bike elevated on a lift rotate the rear wheel until you find tight spot in the belt -- halfway between the front and rear pulleys. You should have about 9mm of flex with 10lb of force on the bottom. The marks on the swing arm are useless. After tension is set rotate the wheel and check belt alignment by watching the belt track on the front and rear pulleys. The drive belt should not rub on the sides of the rear sprocket.
Finally reinstall the exhaust system. Be careful not to scratch the pipes as you maneuver them into position.
Please not the manufacturer's of the Victory overdrive pulley do not include installation instructions with their product. Hopefully these instructions will help you through the installation. I have found very good help from the Kingpin Cruisers site at http://www.KingpinCruisers.net site. This install requires some good wrenching skills, but if a service tech can do it, you will surely be able to do it and do a much better job.
Contributing author to the Victory Custom shop -- Cycle Solutions http://www.CycleSolutions.net
Yamaha FJR1300 - XDECTM ECU manufacturer - CRb-100 Test Bench manufacturer
History
The FJR1300 was introduced to Europe in 2001 before arriving in North America in 2002, with the 2003 model year designation, and offered in a non-ABS version only. Motorcyclist magazine named the 2003 model Motorcycle of the Year. It had 298 mm front brake discs. It appeared in Europe in various colors: silver, blue, black and red.
The 2004 European model came in a range of colors, including Silver Storm. The 2004 North American models included both a non-ABS version with traditional blue anodized brake calipers and a new ABS version. Both were Cerulean Silver. Other refinements included an upgrade to the suspension rates, 320 mm front brake discs, and a fairing pocket for small items.
The 2005, North American model year remained structurally unchanged with a non-ABS and ABS model in Galaxy Blue.
In 2006, the U.S. and rest of the world model years synchronized and design significantly changed including trailing arm changes, radiator curving, instrumentation changes, upgraded alternator and significant attention to airflow changes from reported heat issues in previous years. In response to these complaints, Yamaha added several adjustable vents to the FJR1300, allowing the rider to direct air to or away from the body. The base 2006 FJR1300A model has ABS with linked brakes and is Dark Blue Metallic while the Cerulean Silver colored FJR1300AE model features a semi-automatic transmission. The AE/AS model has YCCS, or Yamaha Chip-Controlled Shift. The rider can either utilize the standard foot shifter without the clutch lever, or shift via a mountain-bike style shifter on the left bar. The AE model continues in production through 2008.
For 2008, some minor changes were introduced, including an update to the altitude-related engine control unit issues and throttle 'feel', notably to improve low speed on/off throttle transitions. The colors announced in Europe are; Silver (Silver Tech), Black (Midnight Black) and Graphite. 2008 also sees minor changes in the ABS system.
Design
Engine
The FJR1300 has a 1,298 cc transverse-mounted inline-four engine with four valves per cylinder.
Transmission
The FJR1300 uses a five-speed manual gearbox with close ratio gears. The FJR1300AE/AS model features a semi-automatic transmission which Yamaha calls YCC-S (Yamaha Chip Controlled-Shift). This system is a five-speed sequential manual gearbox with a computer controlled clutch that dispenses with the conventional clutch lever. These models have no lever on the left bar and instead have a mountain-bike style shifter operated with thumb and index finger. Gear shifts are completed in around 0.2 seconds. The conventional foot shifter may be used simultaneously. The gearbox pattern is also unconventional in that neutral is at the bottom end of the range. The ECU automatically controls the robotic clutch and ignition timing to ensure smooth gear shifting and will actuate the clutch at standstill. Stalling the engine is not possible.
Final drive is via shaft, encased within the swingarm, which has monoshock suspension with remote two-setting adjustable pre-load.
Chassis
The frame of the FJR1300 is a twin spar design manufactured from aluminum alloy, the engine is a fully stressed member.
Electrical system
The FJR1300 features a standard 12 volt electrical system, with a fused cigarette-lighter style accessory jack in the left central locking glovebox. The 2003 U.S. model does not have a glovebox or electrical outlet; model years 2004 and 2005 do not include the electrical outlet.
Other features
The FJR1300 features an electrically-adjusted screen controlled by a rocker switch on the handlebars. By default the shield returns to its lowest position when the key is off, however some riders choose to disable the 'return' feature. A number of new features were added beginning with the 2006 model year, including a rider-adjustable airflow system. AE models feature heated handlebar grips with speed sensitive adjustment. The handlebars are adjustable, with 3 positions, and the seat is adjustable to high or low, with about an inch between the positions. Locking side panniers are supplied as standard and each will take a full face helmet. Options include: fairing protectors, larger screen, color-coded top box.
Police models
Yamaha FJR1300A (2006) used by Danish police
In the UK, the FJR1300 has replaced the Honda ST1300 as the patrol motorcycle with several police forces, following the withdrawal of the Honda ST1300 Pan-European due to concerns over high speed handling.
Yamaha FJR 1300 is the patrol vehicle used by the police force of Trinidad and Tobago including the units in the convoy of the President and the Prime Minister.
Specifications
Data from: Yamaha UK
FJR1300
FJR1300A
FJR1300AE/AS
Engine
1,298 cc (79 cu in), 4-stroke, four-cylinder, liquid-cooled, in-line
Bore Stroke
79 mm 66.2 mm (3.1 in 2.6 in)
Power
105.5 kilowatts (141.5 hp) @ 8,000 rpm
Torque
134.4 Nm (99.1 ftlbf) @ 7,000 rpm
Compression Ratio
10.8:1
Fuel System
Electronic Fuel Injection
Lubrication
Wet sump
Ignition
TCI (Digital)
Transmission
5-speed, constant mesh
Semi-automatic
Final Drive
Shaft
Overall Length
2,230 mm (87.8 in)
Overall Width
770 mm (30.3 in)
Overall Height
1,245 mm (49.0 in)
Seat Height
818 mm (32.2 in)
Ground Clearance
140 mm (5.5 in)
Wheelbase
1,539 mm (60.6 in)
Dry Weight
264 kg (580 lb)
268 kg (590 lb)
Suspension Front
Telescopic, coil spring, adjustable spring preload, adjustable rebound damping
Suspension Rear
Link-type, gas/oil damped
Brakes Front
Dual hydraulic disc
Brakes Rear
Single hydraulic disc
Tyres Front
120/70-ZR17
Tyres Rear
180/55-ZR17
Fuel Tank Capacity
25 l (5.5 imp gal; 6.6 US gal)
See also
List of Yamaha motorcycles
References
Notes
^ FJR1300 Technical Specifications Yamaha UK
References
Motorcycle News review of FJ1300
Yamaha UK FJR1300A
External links
Wikimedia Commons has media related to: Yamaha FJR 1300
Yamaha Super Sport Touring
Yamaha at the Open Directory Project
v d e
Yamaha motorcycles
Standard / Naked
FZX250 FZX750 XJ600/FJ600 XJ600 Diversion XJ900 XJR400 XJR1200 XJR1300 YX600 Radian
Sport
TZR250 FZ750 Phazer FZ400R FZ750 FZR250 FZR400 FZR600 FZR750 FZR1000 YZF600R YZF750 YZF1000R YZF-R6 YZF-R7 YZF-R1 YZF-R125 YZF-R15 SZR660 TRX850 FZ6 FZ1 FZ16
MotoGP
YZR500 YZR-M1
Touring / Sport touring
Venture Royale FJ1100 FJ1200 FJR1300 GTS1000
Power Cruiser
V-Max/VMAX BT1100 Bulldog MT-01 MT-03
Cruisers
XV (Virago)
125 250 400 500 535 750 1100
XV (Road Star/Wildstar)
1600A 1600ALE 1600AS 1600AT (Silverado) 1600ATLE (Silverado) 1700A 1700AM 1700AT (Silverado) 1700ATM (Silverado) 1900A
XVS (Drag Star/V Star)
125 250 400 650 1100 1300 (Midnight Star)
XVZ (Royal Star)
13A (Royal Star/Boulevard) 13AT (Tour Classic) 13LT (Tour Deluxe) 13TF (Venture)
Supermoto
XT660X
Dual-sport / Off-road
TDM850 TDR250 XTZ660 Tnr XTZ750 Super Tnr XT125R XT125X XT600E XT660R XT660Z Tnr WR250F WR450F XT1200Z Super Tnr
Motocross
YZ125 YZ250F YZ400F YZ426F YZ450F
Scooter
Lagenda Majesty Mio Nouvo QT50 Vino Classic Vino 125 X-City XF50X Zuma Zuma 125
First Models
Yamaha YA-1 Yamaha DT-1
Categories: Yamaha motorcyclesHidden categories: Articles needing additional references from July 2009 | All articles needing additional references
About the Author
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Hello again Navydad, the bushings on the pump seem to leak oil pass them?
There is a number stamped on the crankshaft (9 2M R 195) I have asked the parts guy will this help determine the if I have installed the correct main bearings but the rods were standard sized. I made the mistake of throwing my old mains away and used the O6R# to get the bearings. I am located in GA. Also, the oil pressure runs up to 60psi cold and drops to about 10psi or lower when warmed and has old rocker arm shaft with spacer/washer and bolt.
you did the correct way in ordering the bearings by the 06r0 serial number.normally the entire crank will be std. or undersized. check the rocker shafts they should have a small cup plug in one end of them, some times these plugs will come out. if your pressure starts out at 60 then comes down to 10 then you have a problem you are correct. does the check engine or stop engine come on ? the ops or oil pressure sending unit is in the wiring with the oil pressure Gage in a freight liner.
oil pump, fore got too tell you that the bushings some time will spin inside the body or will end up in side the pan.also the regulator valve that you replaced the alumni. one make sure it says series 60 to the block, the old Relief ones looked the same but did not say series 60 to the block on it.
some thing else is a spun or loose bushing in one of the exhaust or intake rockers i found this out on a bus one time . i had too remove the shaft and inspect them they looked ok until i removed the shaft and found the bushing loose that was a weird one !! let me know talk too you later. good luck
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