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Featured Article :

The Red Onion, Vancouver

reviewed by Anne Garber

604-263-0833
2028 41st Avenue
Vancouver

$$

Cross Street: Maple / East Boulevard

The year 2010 marks The Red Onion's 25th anniversary, and it's no wonder that this place has survived -- and thrived. At first glance the menu seems fairly unpretentious, but on closer reading you'll realize that there are unique twists to these food selections. The menu proudly proclaims that the restaurant has all your major food groups: the soup group, the salad-and-veggie group, the meat-and-potato group, the drink group, and (of course) the dessert group.

Most of The Red Onion's produce is hand-picked daily, and the baking is done in-house every morning. Microwaves are never used because the owners don't like what zap-rays do to your food. The kitchen layout features an open grill, where you can watch as your food is cooked to your order. The staff is friendly, helpful and glad to see you, and they'll go out of their way to prove it.

The house specialties were difficult to pin down as each menu item is special. However, one of the actual specialties is burgers. The Red Onion hamburger is a one-third pound hand-made patty of lean, fresh beef (never frozen) charbroiled at 400F to medium-well and served on a toasted bun with fresh tomatoes, crisp lettuce, fried or raw onions and an original mustard-based sauce ($4.95). Add-ons are $1.25 each: Canadian cheddar, bacon, mushrooms, sauerkraut. In the chicken burgers, the fillets are flavoured in the Red Onion's unique marinade, charbroiled to perfection and presented in a toasted bun with mayo dressing, fresh lettuce and tomatoes. The optional toppings are the same as for the hamburger.

It's not often that you see a hot dog on a restaurant menu that isn't in the kiddies' menu section. The Red Onion double dog isn't just a hot dog, it's a legend! European-style weiners are custom-made for the restaurant (and so are the buns), and the weiners are charbroiled and served with fried onions, tomato and the mustard-based sauce ($4.95). These dogs are huge and can be messy, but your server will be happy to share with you the trick to eating them. You can order any of the extra toppings for the dogs, too.

Another of the house specialties is the French fry dip -- a lightly-spiced sour cream 'n' dill dip that's addictive ($1.25). An order of fries is $2.25, and the potatoes are hand-cut every day and deep-fried in pure vegetable oil -- and these orders are large!

And by the way -- these are the best French fries in town! Other menu items include a veggie burger ($4.95), three-cheese quiche for $5.95 (it's actually four cheeses, but when the fourth one was added they didn't bother to change the name), and several delectable salads served with bagel thins ($4.95 to $6.25). Owner Earl Morris has recently added chili (stupendous!) to his offerings.

All desserts here are made from scratch, crusts and all. There's no scrimping on ingredients, so if you're looking for a small and dainty dessert, don't look here! If you need a whole pie, they'll be happy to bake one for you. Just one of the several varieties available is pecan pie, and it's made from a recipe straight out of Texas with fresh pecans and caramel in a light crust ($3.95, and add $1.25 for á la mode).

When you're planning your next barbecue party, we suggest that you call The Red Onion and enquire about their travelling barbecue. It'll make your party a snap to plan, and the food will be absolutely perfect. Suffice it to say we've never been disappointed in anything from the Red Onion, and we do indeed stop in there at least twice a month to satisfy our cravings for excellent burgers and the best fries in town.

P.S.: The Red Onion is not responsible for lost or broken diets.

 

About the Author

Anne Garber is a seasoned international journalist whose focus includes consumer product reviews, challenges and issues, internet scam and problem-solving, book reviews, travel and food features. She is an expert product and recipe tester, and pulls no punches when it comes to differentiating between products and services that perform well (five stars) and those that don't (bombs).She writes a weekly column in Canada for TV Week, and international columns online (evalu8.org, Travellady.com) and maintains a regular blog on consumer matters at http://www.annegarber.blogspot.com/. Anne welcomes polite feedback and interesting ideas for new reviews or articles at anne@evalu8.org. Anne divides her time between homes in Vancouver, Canada, Seattle, WA and Paris, France.

Do you enjoy short stories about things?

Try telling me where you are
without going into detail.
I say
"The air is stale and smells of oiled rags"
and you know I am in
a garage.
You say
"The cement ground was cold upon my skin and there was a certain staleness in the air,
the thick smell of oil soaked into rags was....blahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh"
Why do you do this? Where are you taking
me?
What if my garage was nothing like this?
So now that we are there,
I say
"The skin of his knuckle smokes under the hood."
and by golly,
you say
"He twists his large hands into the jumble of wires and steel, positioning the wrench awkwardly, scraping his knuckles on the red hot coil, searing his flesh and blahhhhhhh"
See, it's not a big enough DEAL
to tell me about this common man
and his predicament.
We know he is in his garage fixing a car.
Now,
tell me,
why is he fixing
his car?

I read this and saw the two examples of writing....the "you say" sadly is how I would probably write it, the "I say" is how YOU WOULD write it and why I have no business writing a short story, but why YOU should be in print. I found this a great illustrative teaching piece.

Around Town
Our recommendations for this week run the cultural gamut, with jazzy shindigs, cool lectures on history, and post-modern interpretations of the Bard!

Thanks for visiting!