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In any application where there is a drive, driven or idler pulley, engineers and designers need to consider the properties of the materials used in timing pulley construction before committing to a final design. Nylon and aluminum are the two most common construction materials for timing pulleys. Both materials have their advantages and disadvantages depending on the application.

Nylon timing pulleys are lightweight, offering excellent inertia control which in turn enhances energy savings. They feature good wear characteristics, inherent chemical resistance, material cost savings and have no oxidation issues.

Aluminum timing pulleys are also considered lightweight, although heavier than nylon. They have moderate inertia control, and display excellent wear characteristics. They are mechanically durable, but have some oxidation issues if untreated (clear coat or anodizing).

Additives to the nylon can give the end user important, and sometimes necessary, properties including material that is UL94-V0 flame retardant, FDA and RoHS compliant or non-conductive for static sensitive processes. Nylon pulleys, timing or otherwise, have no magnetic signature. Depending on the application, the tensile strength of nylon, although less than that of aluminum or steel, is often more than sufficient for low or fractional horsepower drive systems.

For designs where timing pulleys may have to endure temperatures exceeding 120 degrees Celsius (250 degrees Fahrenheit), nylon pulleys are mechanically sound, but are approaching a temperature where material deflection is a possibility. Most synchronous timing belts have a maximum recommended operating temperature of around 82 degrees Celsius (180 degrees Fahrenheit). Although cost savings might make a nylon pulley attractive, in high temperature applications aluminum may be the wiser choice. In either case, the limiting factor will be the temperature at which the chosen belt will fail.

Nylon is a little less then 2.5 times lighter (g/cc) than aluminum when comparing solid shapes. But, when it comes to properly designed timing pulleys, nylon can be as much as five times lighter than aluminum, yet capable of achieving the same torque and speed requirements.

How is that possible? Just as the majority of aluminum automobile wheels have four to six spokes to save cost and weight without compromising strength, balance or performance, the same principles apply when it comes to designing and molding nylon pulleys.

The web of the pulley and the hub are designed for strength, material savings, and cost savings. For some nylon pulley profiles, an aluminum web is used to eliminate deflection, increase strength and minimize the potential for deformation during the cooling cycle after molding. Nylon timing pulleys can be supplied as all plastic or plastic with an over molded metal insert. These metal inserts can be provided using aluminum, steel and stainless steel and can be keyed, broached, splined or have set screws just like a solid aluminum or steel pulley.

Both nylon and aluminum pulleys can be provided with single or double row radial bearings pressed into the hubs. Both can also be supplied with single or double flanges and offer a wide variety of the most common tooth profiles. Nylon pulleys can be provided as stepped pulleys when two or more different pitch diameters are pressed on to a common bushing and staked into place.

Due to the continual drive for efficiency and cost savings in the automotive and other industries, it is very common to find plastic pulleys under the hood of your car, in your table saw or even driving your lawnmower. The plastics industry has come a long way in the past twenty years. New additives and fibers are now available which allow material characteristics to be fine-tuned for specific applications in a wide range of industries. In many cases, they offer equal or superior performance than their metal counterparts.

Torque Transmission manufacturers timing pulleys in a variety of standard size and custom sizes - All provide superior performance and economic design. Because our timing pulleys only require a minimal amount of belt tension to prevent slippage, the bearing loads on the driving shaft are greatly reduced.

Molded drive pulleys from Torque Transmission are reinforced with metal inserts to offer the lightweight advantages of nylon along with the advantages of a metal-to-metal connection at the hub.

How to Load Film on your School Laminator

Laminating documents with a school laminator is pretty easy. However, loading film onto your school laminator is not quite as simple. In fact, the number one reason for service calls on school laminators is that the film was loaded incorrectly. With this in mind, it is important to be very careful when loading film onto your laminator so that you don’t load it backwards or incorrectly.

If you do end up loading your laminator incorrectly, adhesive may end up being deposited onto the rollers. It is very important that you do not allow this to happen. Otherwise, you will need to scrub the adhesive off the rollers before you can laminate any other documents. Adhesive may be deposited on the rollers if

* You try to laminate with only one roll loaded on your machine

* You try to use two different widths of laminating film at the same time

* Either roll of laminating film is loaded upside down (with the adhesive towards the roller). The shiny side of clear film should be in contact with the heat rollers and the dull side with the adhesive should face out.

* One or both rolls of film are allowed to completely run off the cores of the laminator.

Being careful to not allow one of these things to happen, here are some simple steps for loading film onto your school laminator. Please keep in mind that you should always replace both rolls of film at the same time.

o Turn the main power switch on. If the laminator is already hot, turn the main power switch to off and allow it to cool down before turning the machine back on.

o Remove the feed table from the laminator so you can see both rolls of laminate that are mounted on the laminator.

o Cut the remaining top and bottom film webs between the supply rolls and the heated rollers. Be very careful not to cut the heat rollers in the process since this could ruin them.

o Raise the safety shield to its full upright position and pull the top piece of film down.

o Remove the existing film from the laminator. One of the easiest ways to accomplish this is to use the reverse function of the laminator to slowly back the laminate out of the machine. Be careful during this step to make sure that no adhesive comes in contact with the heated rollers on the laminator. You may need to reinstall the feed table to complete this task. Just remember to remove it again after the film has been removed.

o Remove the bottom roll of laminating film by sliding the right to release it from the hex shaped brake hub. Loosen the locking screw on the left retaining collar of the film supply shaft and slide the collar off. Pull the shaft partially out of the film tube and then push it back in to knock out the left core. Pull out the shaft all the way out of the tube and remove the remaining core adapter.

o Slide one core adapter into the right side of the new roll of film ensuring that the film will unroll properly (from the bottom). Slide the film shaft into the core adapter and tube from the right side. Place the other core adapter on the shaft protruding from the left side then replace the retaining collar. Tighten the locking screw.

o Lower the bottom idle bar.

o Unroll 2ft of film and push the idler bar back into place and drape film over the bottom roll of film. Place the bottom roll of film back into the round hole of the right side frame and the left side into the hex shaped brake hub.

o Remove the top film supply roll from the laminator and repeat steps 6 and 7 from above. Ensure that when you install the film onto the roller that the film will unroll from the bottom after the film supply is loaded back on the laminator.

o Unroll 2ft of film and drape the film over the top idler bar and completely over both heat rollers

o Slide the feed tray under the bottom film web that is draped over the bottom roll of film. Reinstall the feed table so that the bottom film is resting on the tray.

o Slide the threading card between the feed tray and the laminating film that is laying on the tray. Gently push the threading card into the nip area of the heat rollers. The card should now be guiding both rolls of film into the heat rollers

o Lower the safety shield and press the RUN button on the laminator. Watch the leading edge of the threading card to ensure that it enters the nip area of the heat rollers and is being pulled into the laminator. Push STOP once the threading card has exited the rear of the laminator.

About the Author

Jeff McRitchie is the designer and Director of Marketing for MyBinding.com. He has written over 100 articles on laminators, laminating supplies,binding machines,binding supplies and more.

I finished my little daily driver project, but it's not running right?

its a 1988 civic dx d16 SOHC,i got the lil motor rebuilt since it had like 230,000 miles, i had a some parts laying in my garage but some i had to buy. hy-tech header,blox manifold,aem fuel rail,bbk 65mm t/b, edelbrock cam gear, zex cam shaft, b&m fuel press regulator w/ gauge, tanabe medalion touring exh, ram clutch,ram pressure plate,exedy flywheel,koyo mini radiator,fidanza left&right driveshafts,blox rear lower control arms,tanabe springs/koni shks, i threw in some 13" bbs(im not sure if there real),after i finished everything and putting all new fluids, i turned it on but it idles like shit it goes up and down and it wants to turn off, everything is all connected, i checked everything, but i just cant seem to find the problem, heres a pic of it, i know i know it needs paint.
http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g61/core9/DSC03984.jpg

make sure the t/b gasket is good and that its secure. i installed a skunk2 manifold to my z6 and ever since then it does that too. i kno the manifold gasket is good but the t/b is bad. just check it and im having the same problem as you but more likely its a vaccum leak

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