Piston Rings Set

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Piston Rings Set
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My Minimoto wont start what can I do? This is a very common question I get asked regularly. First of all you need to stand back from the situation and apply some lateral thinking and work through this logical checklist:

1. Firstly if yours wont start make sure you have fuel getting to the carburettor and the fuel valve is set to the ON position . Make sure you choke is on (selected to the up position) when the engine is cold.
2. Check to ensure the spark plug is not fouled with and is in good condition. Try spraying a small amount of starting fluid into the carburettor air intake to aid the starting process. If it starts after spraying with starting fluid but dies as soon it runs out of starting fluid then this means there is no fuel getting to the engine. Check the carburettor and clean if necessary. Make sure the carb and manifold are not loose by ensuring the bolts are tight. If the bolts are loose this will cause air leak and weaken the mixture preventing it from starting. Take off the carburettor cover and tighten both the carburettor and manifold.
3. Ensure you have fresh fuel/oil mixture in the petrol tank and that the correct mixing ratio has been used or your Minimoto wont start. If your oil mixture is too rich then you might have problems starting. I recommend using Redline or Mobile One full synthetic oil.
4. Another common failure which inhibits starting is the ignition coil. Unplug the spark plug and check the spark whilst cranking the engine, it needs to be a strong good spark.
5. If all the previous tests have been completed and the results are satisfactory it is possible that you do not have enough compression in the engine. This occurs due to a lack of oil in the mixture causing premature piston ring and piston wear. If this is the case you will need to replace the piston and the rings.

David Welton is the Director of http://www.Minimotos4u.com
With over 20 years of motorcycle experience and a clear passion for Minimotos. I often get asked my Minimoto wont start or I cant start my Minimoto we are here to help you with your problems.

Breaking-in a Rc Nitro 2-stroke Glow Engine

Preparing your Nitro RC Engine only takes a few hours, but the benefits are worth the investment in time. In a nut shell RC 2-stroke engine use a tapered sleeve to create compression, while most full scale cars use piston rings. The process of breaking the engine in is to make sure that the piston and the sleeve have the best fit possible. Like all things RC it just depends on who you ask about breaking-in an engine.

From experience I can tell you that all the methods work well, when in doubt refer to the manual, they will have break-in procedures specific to your engine. the only important thing to remember is not to be too harsh on the engine, break it in slowly taking your time. Remember your not racing yet...

The 7 Step Break in Procedure

While most people recommend running about 5 tanks of fuel through the engine I generally like to run 7, I just like to make sure that I get the engine broken-in correctly. If you look at the oil that comes out the exhaust you'll see that by the 5th or sixth run the tiny bits of metal will be gone from the flow, initially you can see the engine breaking-in from the oil and unburnt fuel.

Needle Settings

Refer to your manual for the specific settings for your engine. The problem is that because each RC Nitro Engine is different you can't just copy your buddies settings, you have to work these out. Break in settings must be as rich as possible, this keep the engine cool and the excess fuel and oil will help flush out the tiny metal bits that come off during the break-in.

Fuel Tank #1

I'll idle the engine for the entire tank, you often need to keep the throttle open about 10% during the first few minutes, at least while the engine warms up. Keep the revs as low as possible, but don't change the mixture needle settings just yet. Once the tank is complete let the engine cool down for about 5 - 15 minutes. Be sure to leave the piston at dead bottom center while it cools, or else the shrinking sleeve could cause a problem if the piston is also there.

Fuel Tank #2

After the initial idle stage I'll run the car with as little throttle as possible, but keep the car moving, I make sure when I accelerate (not more than 25%) I'll do it smoothly and consistently. It's important to start putting some load on the engine, because when you race your RC Car there will be load on the engine. Try to match your break in conditions to your expected running conditions as closely as possible. The idea is to slowly build up the revs of your engine until your able to hit max speed by the end of the 7 th tank. Run your car in a figure-8, as turning makes the engine work slightly harder. After the 2nd Tank you can start to lean your motor out a little.

Fuel Tank #3 -#5

Now we're ready to start getting some speed out of your RC Nitro Car. What I do is start to run the car up and down a long straight, with figure-8 patterns at a low idle between them. I will run at max 25% throttle for about a minute, then rev the RC car flat out for at most 2 seconds. then return to a the standard max 25% throttle. Make sure you get your car to rev right through it's range, but don't keep it at full throttle for too long.

Fuel Tank #5 - #7

I continue as above, but shortening the periods between the bursts of full throttle. I also start to work out the tune of my car, I only change the air / fuel mixture before the 5th tank if I'm struggling to keep the engine running. After the 5th tank I start to lean the mixture by 1/8th turn. I still like to run it until there are no small metal bits in the exhaust discharge.

Once your done with the above break-in procedure I would still run my RC Car gently for the first couple of times on the track, this will ensure that you get the most life our of your brand new RC Nitro Engine.

About the Author

Gregory Alexander has been racing and Drifting Nitro Powered RC Cars for several years, he is a lead member of Karnage RC and Drift Club. More RC Tips and Tricks can be found here : The Ultimate RC Drift Resource Site

if i replace the original std piston ring set with a 0.10 oversize,do i have to replace the original std pisto

n set with a 0.10 oversize set as well?
Thank you
it is a V6 wet sleeved engine that was overheated a LOT because of a coolant leak.i have replaced the gaskets and the engine works now but it does not have the same power that used to had before the overheating episode.In fact the engine lost a lot of power both torque at low rpm and at high rpm.There is also some white smoke coming out of the exauhst that clears a little after the engine warms up but just a little.I am suspecting the rings lost their sealing properties after the overheating episode that is why i am asking about replacing the original standard ones with a set of 0.10 oversize.
To Don't Know Everything:

The engine was overheated just ONCE not numerous times.The problem is that It ran non-stop for several hours without a single drop of coolant.

no you can use the stock pistons with 10 over with no problem,make sure though that cylinder isn't egg shaped on that one,their bad to get out of round,that's why they make the 10 over rings for to save you from having to get new pistons,but hone it real good and check the gap in the rings real good if the clearance isn't right on those when it starts and heats up it will break a ring in it,it has to have expansion room in the cylinder wall for the 10 over to work like they are suppose to work,good luck with it.

Baseball should retire Roberto Clemente's No. 21
It's time for baseball to salute its Latin American influence and retire Roberto Clemente's No. 21.

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