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Engine Sludge has ruined thousands of automobile engines, often surprising car owners who thought they had done proper maintenance.

Automakers responded poorly, leaving thousands of customers in the lurch.

Sludge prone engines in some cars from Chrysler, Dodge, Toyota, Saab, Volkswagen, Audi, and Lexus from 1998-2004 await unwary buyers.

But any engine can develop sludge if maintenance is delayed.

Class action lawsuits have resulted in settlements, but no manufacturer has issued a recall.

News reports still trickle in, offering a continuing picture of used car buyers whose bargain dream car turned into a sludge monster. Sludge is gelled oil, with its additive package depleted by heat and contaminant accumulation. Oil galleries, small passages in the engine block and cylinder head, can build up deposits. These block delivery and starve engine components of life giving oil.

Once the oil galleries are blocked, reverting to manufacturer's recommended oil change intervals generally fails to reverse the sludging.

Engine failure due to oil gelling is expensive, and in sludge-prone engines, can be repetitive.

Among cars that sludged, mean engine failure occurred at 63k miles.

A few poorly maintained engines locked up with as little as 15k.

Many still had warranty coverage, but numerous claims were denied.

Rental fleet cast-offs and lease returns, which often are poorly maintained by first owners, composed the majority of sludged engines.

Oiling problems are not a new issue.

In the early days of the auto business, motors were routinely disassembled and scrubbed with kerosene.

My father was the third owner of a 1956 Plymouth V-8 that sludged up in 1961, despite his regular maintenance. I went to the dealership and watched it being steam cleaned. Oil change intervals had been getting longer for a couple decades without incident when the sludge problem reappeared. An engineering crisis in the mid-1990's brought the sludge monster back.

Evolving emissions standards and fuel mileage targets added new complexity to drive train engineering, putting pressure on overworked design teams.

Here is a very brief overview of a few of these issues.

Aluminum engines with new heat transfer rates combined with hotter internal temperatures for emissions compliance, often overheating oil.

Finer internal tolerances and friction reduction called for lower viscosity motor oils.

These thinner lubricants allowed smaller pores on oil pan uptake screens which tended to clog easily. Front wheel drive compacted entire drive trains in crowded engine bays, where heat from tack-on turbochargers and catalytic converters built up. Cylinder heads evolved with three and four valves per cylinder, variable valve timing, and overhead cams with their associated chains and gears.

This new head complexity and crowding gave engineers few alternatives but to downsize valve guides, oil passages, spark plug threads, and coolant galleys.

Long life antifreeze and radiator maintenance intervals up to 100,000 miles allowed some cooling systems to deteriorate.

Coolant leaks contaminate oil quickly.

So beginning in 1996, problems with extended oil change intervals developed.

Late model cars began to show up at dealer service bays with sludge in engines.

Dealers kept this quiet, often claiming they had never heard of the sludge problem.

When manufacturers saw the mountain of warranty claims coming, denial took over.

Many builders denied warranty claims, claiming improper maintenance as the cause of sludged engines.

A certain percentage of new cars will inevitably be improperly maintained, but engine sludge occurred more frequently in selected models.

As the problem grew, internet owner's forums filled with posts about weak customer service, claim denials, and dealer stonewalling. Eventually extended drive train warranties were offered by VW, Toyota, Audi, and Saab. Troubled Chrysler declined to offer extend warranty protection or speed up claims.

For engines engineered liable to sludge, flushes are offered, but no good solution is available.

But to prevent oil sludge better maintenance is suggested.

Avoid the illusory savings of quicky lube shops.

Manufacturers "severe service" or "severe climate" oil drain interval listed in the owner's manual should be followed.

This means every oil change receipt should show mileage lower than the figure specified.

Some owners report being disqualified for just a few miles over.

Replace the PCV (crankcase ventilation) valve every 30K miles.

Every single service or repair receipt must be retained, showing the vehicle identification number (VIN), date, mileage, and description of service performed.

Never drive with an overheated motor, repair the cooling system and replace the oil immediately. Cooling systems should be serviced more often than manufacturer's specs. Short trips in cool climates don't warm up motor lubricant fully, allowing condensation to build up. Just taking the car for a longer ride every two weeks might help.

Car buyers beware "hot deals" and "low payments."

Many oil sludgers were "bargains."

As new cars, many were moved with heavy incentives,low-front-money lease contracts, and rental fleet package contracts.

Previous owner's service records should be central to the used-car evaluation.

For more detail on engine sludge, plus thousands of car buying and maintenance tips, click The Engine Oil Sludge Problem [http://www.texas-cars-and-dealerships.com/engine-oil-sludge.html]

The Author, Ed Sherbenou, is a car industry enthusiast and frequent critic, has traveled 2 million miles in commercial and private vehicles without an injury accident, and maintains his own vehicles.

Ed offers car model reviews, auto industry insights, and maintenance tips, at: [http://www.texas-cars-and-dealerships.com]

10 Basic Hypermiling and Gas Saving Tips

Is it possible to save 20% or more on gas? Yes it is. In fact, it is possible to save 30- 40% and it isn't even difficult. Hypermiling, the noble art of squeezing every last mile out of a gallon, isn't brain surgery or rocket science. Anyone can do it. Employ some easy, basic Hypermiling tricks and you'll increase your car's MPG the minute you pull out of the driveway.

$4 a gallon and rising. Gas prices have reached an all time high. And if you think $4 is the bloody limit, fasten your seat belt. Experts are saying the worst is yet to come. $5 a gallon, they say, is just a matter of time. As is $6. Some warn us to be prepared for $8 a gallon. Ridiculous? Impossible? Ridiculous yes. Impossible no. In Europe $9 a gallon is considered a bargain...

Although the prices of hybrids seem to go up faster then the price of gas, investing in a so called green car is probably a smart thing to do. But what if you don't have an extra $20,000? Well, below are some basic, easy to follow hypermiling tips. Employ a handful and you'll see results immediately.

1. Check your tires. Under inflated tires make your car waste gas. It is that simple. Check the manual for the manufacturer's recommendations and keep your tires properly inflated. Make it a Saturday routine.
2. How much weighs that golf bag in the back of your car? Every extra 100 pounds is costing you as much as 2% on your car's fuel efficiency. With today's gas prices, that's a lot of money.
3. Here comes the one you don't like: slow down. On highways 55 is the most efficient mph. At 60 and above your fuel efficiency decreases rapidly.
4. Jackrabbit starts, tire screeching stops and speeding can lower your MPG by 5% on city streets. Aggressive driving on highways will cost you even 33%.
5. Check your oxygen filter or have a mechanic do the job. A faulty oxygen sensor can cost you many fill-ups a year because it keeps sending more gas to the engine then needed.
6. Speaking of gas: don't use premium fuel unless you have to. Don't take your manufacturers word for it. It isn't a secret that some were recommending premium fuels in cases where regular would do just fine, because there were ties to oil companies. Check the internet.
7. Speaking of filters: clean your air filter or replace it. Especially if your daily routine forces you to drive on dirty roads or in polluted cities. A dirty air filter kills fuel efficiency.
8. Also check on your so called "forgotten filters". You know, the fuel filter, the PCV valve and the breather filter. Replacing these filters every 15,000 miles will probably improve your MPG by 10-15%.
9. Idling your engine for 15 minutes wastes one gallon of gas. That's $4, remember? So avoid it. How? For example by reducing the amount of time you let your car warm up.
10. Last but not least: older caps get out of shape and let gas fumes escape. That's an expensive waste. You can save up to 15 gallons a year (that's $60!) just by replacing an old gas cap. So go out and get yourself a new one. Better yet, make it one with a lock. As gas prices go up, so do gas thefts.

These 10 tips alone can help you save a small fortune on gas. If you want to save more, it'll come down to changing your driving habits. I know, that sounds extremely boring but it isn't. Actually it is fun - a challenge to fight the monster prices at the pump. A challenge that can save you as much as $300 a year if you drive just 10 miles a day.

About the Author

HyperMiling, the noble art of using all sorts of tips, tricks and hypermiling techniques to squeeze every mile out of a gallon isn't hard at all. In fact, many of these tricks and tips are so easy to implement that it will truly surprise you. Recently, Kenneth Kender published a HyperMiling manual stuffed with gas saving tips that actually work and improve your car's MPG (miles per Gallon) by 25-40% the next time you pull out of your driveway.

Chevy running?

I had a recent post about this. I got a1978 chevy K-10 with a 350 4 barrel. It runs badly.It lets out black smoke, stalls, and does poorly; time you get it in gear it shuts off. I put a new fuel pump on there, new plugs and wires, and new carb Its a Holley Street Avenger. Its a brand new carb it should be in good shape. I also put in a new pcv valve changed oil and filter. Even done a compression test on it and it was fine. Why will it stall when I put it in gear? Is just pours out black smoke badly. And the choke is fine. Though when I rev it the choke opens partly this normal? It still isn't really driveable, it runs poorly. Another thing it has a cracked header, a bad exaust leak I suppose. A guy told me he said he thinks its a head or something, even if it was a bad head could this make it not run hardly? Whats the deal?

1.check timing(vacuum advance)
2.valve lash adjustment.
3.check mixture screws.(do you know size of jets in carb and altitude in your area)
4.carb flooding or float stuck
5.excessive fuel pressure.

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