Oil Sump Pan

Thanks for visiting our site!
Oil Sump Pan
Checkout Ebay Auctions For The Cheapest Prices

Check out Amazon:

Account limit of 2000 requests per hour exceeded.

Featured Article :

This is the first is a series of article that I have written on each aspect of this, the most critical part of any cellar conversion project - the waterproofing.  This first article is on the sump liner. The sump liner sounds like such a mundane item, I hardly imagine the average person getting passionate about which one they have, but it can make the difference between enjoying a reliably dry basement and the misery of dealing with a flooded one.

The sump liner...

The biggest decision is whether to have a perforated liner or a non-perforated one. This is an easy one, 99.5% of cases benefit from having a perforated liner.

A perforated sump liner will allow water in from under the floor and in so doing will actually deplete the water from around the outside of the basement, creating an environment for the basement structure that is less water logged. It takes pressure off the waterproofing system. If you have a drained cavity system you will no longer have water penetrating the primary structure of the basement walls and floor and having to find its way to the sump through the narrow cavity created by the membrane, the water will be disposed of at a much deeper level reducing reliance on the membrane to function as the primary barrier against water ingress.

Objections to perforated sump liners are mostly ill founded and include the fear of undermining the floor slab or even the foundations.  Millions of perforated sump liners have been installed in the USA and many thousands in the UK over the last decade and a half without any such problems.

There are exceptional circumstances where a non-perforated liner is preferable these are: -

Where the ground is very silty and unstable and silt freely runs into the sump chamber

Where the ground is so waterlogged and free draining that a never ending supply of water enters the sump chamber.

Both these conditions are relatively rare and should be spotted by an experienced and knowledgeable expert at the very latest during the installation process if not during investigative work beforehand.

Opting for a non-perforated liner to 'play safe' actually costs you the many advantages that a perforated liner can bring. In fact using a non-perforated liner can be playing dangerously as it encourages the build up of water pressure above the floor level outside the basement, making every aspect of the rest of the installation (of the waterproofing system) being more critical.

Even when the ground is found to be silty a geotextile filter fabric can be installed to line the excavation before the sump liner is fitted. In fifteen years of installing such systems (at a rate of about one a week) I have only come across the need to do this on two occasions - that is how rare it is.

Now the disadvantage of most filters is that they clog - that is what they are supposed to do but when they clog they cease to work efficiently. In this case your sump would progressively behave more and more like it has a solid liner when the filter clogs which is no worse that if you fitted a solid liner in the first place. 

Another type of liner has a grating rather than perforations. The grating is far more open than the small perforations that you normally get in a standard perforated liner. This  works well with a different kind of filter - a plastic gause, a bit like a pan scourer and that goes on the outside of the grating. The filter stops silt from moving into the sump chamber but is also accessible for cleaning - a simple hosepipe applied through the inside of the grating will do it. With this kind of grating - which allows a greater flow rate of water the sump chamber - can also shallower than most thus allaying fears of undermining the footings. 

To find out more click the anchor text link to ask the author a question about any aspect of basement waterproofing and cellar conversion projects.

Raymond Foulkes has served for several years as the elected Technical officer of the British Structural Waterproofing Association (BSWA), in this capacity he was the primary author of the BSWA design guide 'A Guide to Waterproofing Existing Basements' which has be come the benchmark text for the industry. He offers consultancy / expert witness work as well as a full cellar conversion contracting service see http://www.polycrete.co.uk

Choosing a Home Generator

These questions should guide you in choosing a home generator:

What’s the right size? What kind of appliances would the generator have to power when there’s a power outage? Do I want a stationary or portable generator? What kind of accessories do I need to ensure that my generator can be used safely?

Size of Generator

It’s really not the physical size that we’re referring to but the amount of wattage of a generator. To determine how much wattage you need, you first have to decide if you need a portable or stationary generator. The common thinking is that portable generators create less power than do stationary ones, but thanks to innovations in technology, an increasing number of portable generators with large wattage capacity are now available.

The stationary generators are types of generators that automatically provide power when there’s an outage in your city. Most of them run on natural gas and they are good to have if you live in an area that experiences power failures regularly.

Again, depending on wattage, a generator can supply power for a wide range of devices and appliances: from a small reading lamp to a number of huge appliances.

Our next topic – appliances – will help you determine the wattage you require.

Appliances

Most companies that sell generators, air compressors and other power equipment provide wattage guidelines to facilitate the task of shopping for a generator. If you type “wattage requirements generators” on any search engine, you’re liable to find one.

We have collected a few types of appliances and their respective wattage requirements. A rule of thumb is to list the appliances that your generator will supply power to and then add up the total watts of all the appliances.

Note: it’s good to remember that some appliances have higher start-up ratings than run ratings. Always choose the higher start-up rating when calculating your total wattage requirement. Appliances like circular saws, sump pumps, small refrigerators and a clothes washer have both start-up and run ratings. The reason for this is that some appliances fall under the category of “inductive load appliances”. This means they require supplemental power to start up and then extra power to run. They may require a small wattage when starting, but have to rely on extra power to continue running.

The wattages below are estimates only. For safety purposes, always read the manufacturer’s guidelines of any appliance you purchase. Your generator retailer is also in a position to provide exact wattage requirements.

Appliance Wattage (run) Wattage (start-up)

Hand drill (3/8 inches) 500 750

Fridge or freezer 1200 3000

Television set 400 0

Microwave 750 0

Sander (belt) 1200 1700

Home alarm system 100 0

Radio 225 0

Sump pump 1700 3200

Toaster 1500 0

Coffee brewer 1200 0

Frying pan 1200 0

Stationary or Portable?

Stationary generators, also called permanent or standby generators, have one advantage: they start immediately either with a push button or automatically when a power failure occurs. Portable generators on the other hand have to be taken out of their storage, filled with gas or diesel oil, and then activated. Most stationary generators have an automatic activation system, and there’s generally a 10-30 second wait before they start running.

Portable generators are powered by either gas, oil or liquified petroleum gas. Gas portable generators are usually the cheapest; you can buy one for around $250.00. The disadvantage, however, with this type of portable generators is that they usually have a limited run time. You need to keep filling them with fuel if you use them all day. But their greatest attraction lies in their mobility. Whether you’re at home, in a camp site, or in your summer cottage, your portable generator comes in handy.

The kind of fuel you use for your generator will depend on what’s available in your area. Most generators in the market today are bi-fuel generators. They can run on natural gas or on propane.

Accessories for Safety

Depending on the appliances that will be powered by your generator, you may need certain accessories for safety reasons. For example, if you want to use your computer, you’ll need UPS (unlimited power supply) to prevent data loss during transfer time.

Always use the right extension cord for your tool or home appliance. When the tool or appliance is located far from where the generator is installed, use three-prong or three-wire cords with higher gauges.

As for the wiring system, your generator has to connect to the wiring system of your home through a transfer switch. This is to prevent backfeeding into municipal utility lines. It also protects your generator from potential damage because of overloading from your neighbors who are using the same line transformer.

Ask a certified electrician to install your generator and to ground it. Grounding is essential to prevent any electric shock. Also, never go beyond the power capacity of your generator. When there’s a power failure, always plug in the larger appliances first, followed by the smaller ones. Do not operate a generator near heating ducts and in areas where there is rain or snow.

About the Author

About Author:

Brain Jenkins is a freelance writer who writes about power equipment and power sources for the home, often described as a home generator.

Do oil sumps usually have a screen to protect debris from getting into the oil pump ? My car does not. Help?

My 2004 Lamborghini Gallardo thur a rod, due to no oil in the block, the oil pump locked up by a price of metal. After about 2 months of head scratching and $20,000 of parts, we find out that there are no filters for the sump/oil pan. This is CRAZY, here look for your-self -----> ( and no #1 & # # scraper ring are not filers )

http://www.lambostuff.com/xq/asp/year.2004/mode.section/Model.Gallardo%20Coupe/Section.Oil%20Sump/Tav.103.03.00/qx/webcatalogTav.htm

The lubricating oil system on *ANY* engine should have trash protection on *BOTH* the inlet and the outlet sides of the pump, and if something blocks of the proper flow of oil through the pump, the drop in output pressure of the oil should be detected and interlocked with the ignition system for the engine to *stop* its operation *immediately*!

2011 Ford F-150: New V-6 Gets Top Highway Rating Of 23 MPG
Ford Motor Co. [NYSE:F] has revealed fuel economy figures for most of its 2011 F-150 lineup, all pending final EPA approval. And while the numbers aren't yet out for the much-anticipated EcoBoost V-6 version, Ford is claiming a best-in-class 23 mpg highway for both its 3.7-liter V-6 and 5.0-liter V-8 versions. The Dearborn automaker said that it...

Thanks for visiting!