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Did you know that the health and beauty of your brass instruments require extra special attention? It's true-their well being and happiness depend upon it. While we're not talking about putting your tuba on a weight-loss program or taking your trumpet to the spa for a makeover, you do need to treat your brass instruments with care or they'll refuse to come out and play. So, grab that brass and get ready for a workout-it's time to clean!

When was the last time you saw a dirty French Horn in the orchestra? Probably never, right? That's because professional musicians know how to take daily, monthly, and yearly care of their instruments. Now's your chance to do the same! Starting with daily care, follow these tips to maintain the health and beauty of your brass.

Note: Because brass instruments vary, be sure to learn the specific cleaning methods for your particular instrument. For example, rotor instruments like the French horns, rotor tubas, and rotor trombones should always be cleaned by an experienced repair person.

Once a week, lubricate the valves on your brass instrument. Simply unscrew the valve cap and draw out the valve half way. Using the appropriate lubricant, apply a drop of valve oil to the widest part of the valve. Then, press the valve back to its original position. The valves on most brass instruments have a "guide" that helps you to line up the valve. Most often, you'll hear a *click* when you've got the valve perfectly aligned.

If you play a brass instrument, you know what happens after a good session of blowing. You know, "moisture" can build up inside of your instrument. If it's not removed, this moisture can do a real number on the health of your instrument. To be sure you've removed all moisture from your instrument after you're done playing, you'll want do a final blow with the water keys opened. This should help to keep the insides of your instruments happy and dry.

No Fingerprints Please

To keep your brass shining, be sure to wipe down the outside of the instrument after each use. This will help remove oils and perspiration left by your hands.

To spare your brass from unsightly "bruises," be sure to always store your instrument in its case when its not being used. Doing so will not only spare your brass from damage, but it'll also keep your instrument clean. Remember, your instrument case is for your instrument; storing music books, cleaning supplies, or even your lunch inside the case can lead to all kinds of problems with the slides or valves of your instrument.

Once A Month It's Thorough Internal Cleaning Time

To do this, you'll need to take your brass apart completely. You'll also need some supplies, including cleaning brushes, liquid soap, slide grease (if your instrument has slides), and valve oil. If you're not comfortable with any of these steps, take your instrument to a music shop for a professional cleaning to keep it in tip top shape.

Head to your bathroom or kitchen sink and get ready to get dirty!

1. Remove all slides, valves and valve bottom caps and place them, except for the valves, in warm, soapy water. Soak the parts in the water for 10 minutes
2. As your parts are soaking, run warm water over your valves and use the valve brush to brush out all openings. Give your valves a good shake to remove excess water and let dry
3. Depending on your type of instrument, you'll want to brush all its tubes and compartments as well as the valve casings
4. Rinse the entire instrument with warm water and be sure to wipe off any excess moisture with a soft cloth. Before moving on to the next step, you'll want to make sure your instrument is completely dry
5. If your instrument has slides, apply a little slide grease to each and put back together reassemble
6. Replace the valves and apply a drop of oil on each to lubricate. Most valves are numbered, so be sure to put yours back in the correct location

Voila! You're done. You can now go slide that trombone or toot that trumpet to your heart's content. Because you treated your brass with cleanly attention, it'll serve up beautiful music for years to come! Play that horn, Daddy-O!

As well as being a musical guru Jon writes on other subjects as diverse as coffee, CO2 fire extinguishers and love.

New Car Road Test – Go for a Test Drive Before Buying a Car

Are you planning to buy a brand new car this year? And you are already in dilemma which one to buy and which one not! Do not get confused. There are experts to guide choosing your new car. A car is worth buying if it passes the road test. So, the new car road test is a must before you actually buy it. It may happen that you are charmed by the look and features of the car that you have chosen. But the time you go for a road test you at once realize that the car is not made for you.

Where to go for a test drive:

It is wise to follow what the experts say while buying any kind of vehicle. Many of the cars for sale look like a new one. The best way to find out the truth is a test drive. A half-an hour test drive is sufficient to understand the condition of a car. Choose roads that have winding curves and rough surface. Highways are also a good option for test drives. Roads with frequent stop-and-go signals help to find out whether brakes are functioning properly or not.

What to check during test drive:

During test drive do not turn the music on as it will bar you from hearing noises made by the vehicle itself. Accelerate hard and take sharp but smooth turns. If there is problem in the car’s drive train or transmission then you will get a noisy drive. Modern diesel fueled automobiles do not make sound and give smoother ride. So, noise is an indication of problem in the vehicle. Take a couple of miles ride with and without the AC turned on to check the power drain.

Check the position of the steering wheel. See whether the seats are lighter and comfortable enough for you. Simplified dash board ensures easy operation. Use brake while driving at least 50mph to know the car’s emergency performance. If you are not driving a heavy vehicle then pressing clutch should not feel like working out at the gym. As you end your drive leave the motor running for a while and remove the oil-filler cap. Emission of white smoke is an indication of serious engine problem.

Choosing the right model:

It is not always that going for a hi-fi model will do. Your focus should be on purpose. You may have the money to buy a Ferrari or a Ford Mustang. But they are not a good choice for a traffic congested roads in a metro. Think about the condition of the roads where you are going to drive the car. If you need a car to pick your kids from school or drive down to your office every morning then a Ferrari will not do, although it has high speed and powerful engine. On the contrary, GMC trucks are heavy duty vehicles that are ideal for a family ride.

Now, you know the importance of road test and how to choose the right model. So, follow the tips to ensure the best buy. The more cars you take for test drive the easier it becomes for you to find the gem and weed out the lemons.

About the Author

Ethan Williams is an automobile journalist. He writes car reviews and car buying guide; his favorite models are 2009 Ford Focus and 2009 Cadillac CTS. For latest car reviews, he recommends you to visit: www.caranddriver.com

Oily stuff in my coolant reservoir- help?

Yesterday I flushed my radiator and changed my oil after a whole year of neglect. I gave the car to a friend to drive for a year and while she had checked the oil and fluids, she never changed them. My oil looked dirty, but OK, no foam, no milky stuff. My coolant came out fine, but left this greasy, oil film inside the plastic coolant tank. I cleaned it out and put it back. Around the opening of the cap there was icky old radiator fluid goo, but oil didnt appear to be in the flushed fluid. What could this mean? My husband says it might be a cracked head gasket, but I have always thought that the white cloud of smoke was the sign of that happening. What could this be? and no, my friend nor did anyone else put any oil in the radiator fluid reservior, I already asked her.
It is a 98 mustang - the regular 3.7 liter, I know, the cheap one, lol

my best guess, that goo is just old fluid in the system from parts and internal gasket wear on cooled parts. I cleaned my throttle body on my 98 ACura Cl and found that nasty goo and junk in the cooling compartment. I flushed the system after that. IF you did have oil, their would be white smoke, yes, and bubbles in the radiator. Plus a failed compression test. If you notice erratic temp on the gauge, then it's time to get detailed.

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