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Mercedes always had a penchant for using manifold vacuum as a control device for various ancillary systems. As elegant as that may be, it does result in an engine compartment with a multitude of vacuum lines and connections, on top of an already-complicated fuel injection and air-management system. If that myriad of components has never been renewed on a 20-year-old car, there will almost certainly be leaks, and they can be tricky to track down.

Vacuum Leak Symptoms

Major vacuum leaks will make the engine very rough or lumpy at idle as the optimal air-fuel (A/F) ratio is compromised by the intake of unmetered air. The car may still drive reasonably well, because the relative magnitude of the leak becomes much less significant as the throttle opens and the engine draws in the large amounts of air it needs for combustion under load. Idle speed may also be elevated, as the vacuum leak frustrates the efforts of the idle-control system to regulate the amount of air admitted to the intake ports.

The economy gauge in the instrument cluster should be pegged left at idle (unless in gear with the A/C on). But this gauge is not accurate enough for proper diagnosis. We really want to connect a hand-held vacuum gauge to the intake manifold. The best place to do this is at the back of the manifold on the passenger side, where the grey line to the interior accessories takes its feed. A healthy engine at idle, according to most textbooks, should indicate 17-22 in/Hg of vacuum; in the case of a V-8 Mercedes 126, we should be seeing around 20. A lower number can indicate many things, including improper ignition timing and generally poor engine condition. But if the engine is otherwise sound, vacuum leaks will be noticeable here.

Best Detection Method

One way to find vacuum leaks is with an automotive stethoscope. You may be able to actually hear the intake of false air. But the best way is to use your car's oxygen senor as a diagnostic aid. The oxygen sensor on the early V-8's is a single wire device, sending a voltage close to 1.0 when the A/F ratio is very rich and close to 0.0 when the mixture is very lean. By connecting the sensor's output wire through a voltmeter to battery ground, we can use it to test for vacuum leaks. To do this:

• Get the sensor HOT by driving the car.
• Test the sensor's lean response by creating a massive vacuum leak. Disconnect the grey line at the back of the manifold, where you hooked up your vacuum gauge.
• Test the sensor's rich response by spraying carb cleaner into the intake. (The air cleaner needs to be off for this work.)
• If the sensor is not responding correctly, replace it. It is vital for proper mixture control and fuel economy.
• If the sensor is working, test for vacuum leaks by spraying small amounts of carb cleaner around suspected leak areas, such as fuel injector seals and breather hoses. If you see a brief spike in the voltage, you've found a problem area.
• Don't go crazy with the carb cleaner: it is hostile to old rubber.

Unfortunately, not all of the possible culprits can be reached with this procedure. The rubber "donuts" between the upper- and lower-halves of the intake manifold are almost impossible to test. But usually, some combination of this procedure plus temporarily isolating vacuum-powered accessories will expose the leak.

This discussion is not complete without some understanding of how the ideal air/fuel mixture should be set. For more on that topic, please refer to Mercedes 126 Repair: Mixture Control here on EzineArticles. And click the following link for much more on Mercedes 126 repair.

For some thought-provoking articles on problems facing all drivers, including the growing trend of governments raising revenue from speeding tickets and traffic cameras, click on: beat speeding tickets. Check out the video page for a good laugh!

Tool Review: Maxus Aluminum Tank Air Compressor

I wrote up the Maxus EX8016 X-Lite compressor as an Editor's Choice product for our HGTVPro news show HGTVPro.com Weekly, but I only recently had a chance to use the tool for any length of time. While I don't usually run a double-coverage defense with products I include on the show, I was so impressed with the 4-gallon twin-stack unit and its bevy of smart features that a real-time review had to happen.

Bottom line. Let's start with the BL. I used the 1.3 horsepower, 3.7 SCFM X-Lite in the three highest-drain applications I encounter as a home-improvement contractor: nailing off sheathing, running a roofing gun, and using my old Shingle Saw Pro II. It kept pace through and through.

I had absolutely no issue with laddered nails while rapid firing 8d, ring-shank nails or popping off shingles. And I wasn't nailing into any brand new softy 2x10 SPF; I was gunning into 80-year old Doug fir 1x12 sheathing and 2x8 rafters. I drove four nails into every 1x12 board up the roof — a way tighter nailing schedule than 1/2- inch roof decking, wall sheathing or subfloor. My nailer never starved for air.

It's worth pointing out that the EX8016 is a heavy breather and really liked having a dedicated cord straight out of the power supply — it tripped the lame-o surge suppressor strip I use as a multi-plug (no surprise, no demerits) — but on its own 100-foot cord, it ran fine, even in temps right around freezing.

I also ran my Shingle Saw Pro II. This pneumatic shingle saw (no longer in production; it's been re-designed) gobbles air big time. Nevertheless, one-off shingle cuts were a snap. Impressive. And X-Lite recovered quickly when the tank drained.

Weight a minute. When a tool's weight passes a certain threshold — around 80 pounds — carrying it becomes an experience of both necessity and pure dread. Such is the case with most compressors I've owned. But — and I mean and ALL-CAPS-bold-italics BUT — the X-Lite's aircraft quality aluminum tanks drops this baby's gross vehicle weight to a mere 57 pounds. I won't say that's feather-light, but holy mack-o (as my daughter says), there's no comparison between the X-Lite and other compressors where the lift-and-lug process toggles between a serious chafe at the minimum to an exercise in blood-pressure management by week's end.

Details done right. Beyond the light weight, the Maxus designers kept pushing during their design charrettes and executed smart, savvy details that carry the X-Lite furlongs further towards top-of-el-heapo status.

It starts with a carry handle/roll cage that's aces. See, the compressor is cubic — roughly the same shape as other compressors in the class — but the handle is positioned to deliver optimum carry efficiency between truck and site or between floors. Combined with its lighter weight, you can practically carry it like a suit case without having a back surgeon on speed-dial.

The roll-cage part of the handle houses everything — supply lines, gauges and the pump motor, to name a few biggies — so that it'll be darn tough to break them when Bruno the Meatball javelins a shovel or stack of 2x6s into the back of your truck.

Speaking of the truck and cubism, the machine really is cubic! This means that there aren't hose fittings, gauges, cords, or round/odd shapes sticking beyond the tool's recti-linear perimeter. How much do I love this when loading the truck? Seriously, thanks, Maxus, for yet another weapon against entropy.

What I also love (but can't recommend, of course) is that because the tool really is cubic, if you happen to load something on top of it in the truck or gang box, so what? Certainly loading tool and kit boxes around it is easier than any other compressor I've used. This is really smart design.

Here's some other cool stuff:

· The +/- pressure dial is easy to see, read, locate and use.

· There are two (thank you, lord) air ports right on the front of the tool.

· The cord is long enough too. I like this for trim or floor jobs where I might have the compressor in the room with me and need to move it here and there for whatever reason.

· The gauges are easy to see and read.

· Rubber feet mean I don't have to worry about putting the tool down on a finished floor. Tip: placing any compressor in the finished space on a piece of cardboard helps curb possible damage to the floors.

· It has an oil-lube pump; I don't mind changing the oil in every so many — er — years.

My only complaint. I wouldn't be living up to the secret writer's code if I didn't find at least one thing 'wrong.' Seriously, you get nasty letters from the Writers Guild if you don't. Anyway, it's the same complaint I have with all compressors and one that's a super-easy fix: the drain valve. I'd swap out the existing valve (one of those backwards-threaded 1/2 inch twist deals) with a ball valve. 'Nuff said.

Maxus-ed out. If you ask me, the Maxus EX8016 X-Lite compressor is the current industry leader in this category.

About the Author

Mark Clement is a remodeler and author of The Carpenter's Notebook and The Kid's Carpenter's Workbook, Fun Family Projects! To learn more about Maxus Tool's aluminum air compressor, please visit Maxus Tools at http://www.maxustools.com

what crankcase breather can i use on a1988 evo to stop the oil dripping from the air cleaner bottom ?

the hose comes out of the crankcase and goes into the back of the air cleaner body and oil builds up inside of it and leaks out of the bottom. there must be some kind of fix for this. any suggestions would be helpful.

I just Bought a Screamin Eagle Kit...My old one was busted
and missing parts....The Bottom of that Filter was oily too...

But with my New Kit....There were two rubber pieces that go on the breather bolts and curve around the intake , which would suck in and burn up any blow-by oil.....

Gotta Fly...
Mike in MN - 05 Soft Tail "Deuce" Owner

1995 SAAB 9000 CDi review from UK and Ireland
What things have gone wrong with the car? When I bought the car, I immediately took it for an MOT, which I'm happy to report it sailed through, which really surprised me as I only paid £550.00.

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