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Porting and Polishing Chevy Muscle Car Heads

The heart of your engine is the cylinder heads.  A time-honored method for increasing Chevy muscle car horsepower and torque has been improving the air flow potential of the engine cylinder heads. There are many ways to do this; expensive "bolt-ons" such as aftermarket heads, supercharging or turbo charging. For the real gear-head with little money and basic mechanical skills, porting and polishing the OEM heads is always an option.

With just a few key modifications, most heads can be made to flow 5 to 10% better than stock and the effort only requires a few basic tools, patience and a weekend's worth of sweat labor. That's free horsepower! If you are doing a valve job anyway, especially if upgrading to larger valves, this improvement could be in the 20 to 25% range.

The Basic Steps Are: 

1. Remove ridges from the intake and exhaust port bowls; this is formed when the valve seats are cut and once the heads are disassembled you can easily feel it with your finger; it's in the head just below the seat. Blend the ridge into the port walls using a carbide burr with a ¼ inch die grinder. A variable speed grinder and a light touch are best. Be very careful that the shank of the burr does not come in contact with the valve seat. Remove as little material as possible.

The entire port should feature a continuous smooth radius. The valve guide bosses can also be cleaned up but be sure to leave .125 of material surrounding the valve guide hole. You can use abrasive rolls to polish the exhaust ports but do not polish the intake ports. With the intakes, too smooth and you lose the turbulence needed to thoroughly mix the gas and air being pulled into the combustion chamber.

2. Unshroud the valves by gently removing material from the sides of the combustion chambers. Match the head gasket with the bolt and dowel-pin holes in the head and then scribe a cylinder-bore line around the chambers. Using machinist bluing or a dark felt tip marker will make the scribe line easy to see. You then know how far you can safely grind but do not go outside the scribe line or serious sealing problems may result. Again, remove minimal material to avoid reducing the compression ratio. Use some old valves in the chamber to protect the seats while grinding. You can also polish the chambers with abrasive rolls; it will reduce the tendency for carbon buildup.

3. Port match the intake runners to the intake using the intake gasket as a template for a scribe line. Some say this is worth 4% more CFM, 2% is more likely, but every little bit helps.   Do not polish the intake runners or fuel puddling and loss of flow turbulence could result - leave them a little rough.

Tools Needed:

o Variable speed die grinder with 25,000 rpm potential; an air grinder is ok but an electric with variable speed control seems easier to modulate

o Carbide burrs; 1/2 inch head and some smaller sizes for tight spots all with 2 inch long shanks

o Abrasive rolls (basically medium to fine grits, try to stay below 1/2 inch diameter)

o Leather gloves

o Ear plugs

o Eye protection

o Dust mask

o Duct tape (wrap the grinder tightening nut and tape around the combustion chamber scribe line just in case); running a burr across an unprotected head surface will ruin your whole day - the duct tape offers a little extra protection.

Key Learning: A valve job will be needed after this process because I have never seen anyone port and polish heads without nicking at least a few of the valve seats, no matter how careful they were - so plan accordingly.

Your chevy muscle car can really benefit from this "sweat labor" modification. Do this right and you can feel the added power and torque in the seat of your pants - improves gas mileage too! For additional information and photos click on this link: Chevy Power.

by Tom McGuire

New Mazda 2 is a Bit Better Than the Current

Mazda will set on sale its new Mazda 2 a ‘supermini’ on September with new chassis design, which is the same basic platform structure that will establish Ford’s new Fiesta. The new Mazda 2’s boxy profile of its predecessor will be replaced by the sleek and lines with wedges that are inspired by the 1995 Sassou concept car exhibited at Frankfurt. For the second generation’s design, the idea is to retain the company’s sporting concepts but covered with more maturity and impurities. Its curve lines make the new Mazda2 very interesting.

The new Mazda 2 will definitely be lighter and smaller than the model it substitutes. Mazda engineers have trimmed an amazing 100kg off the car’s mass, for a polished 960kg edge weight. They did the trimming by converting the current engine to an all-alloy one, augmenting the use of ultra high-strength steels, the introduction of a new electric power steering set-up and following the same gramme-by-gramme approach to the chassis and suspension that was applied to the MX-5.

Moreover, the new car is also 40mm shorter and 55mm lower than its predecessor. But the company claims that the trimming has not compromised the car’s safety record as it is expecting a full five-star Euro NCAP result.

The line up will initially come with the choice of three new petrol engines that include a 1.3-litre with 75bhp and 86bhp, and a 1.5-litre with 103bhp. All the three are hooked up to five-speed manuals. Next summer is the scheduled arrival of the three-door version and the five-speed auto and the 68bhp 1.4-litre turbodiesel from the present engine line-up will be unleashed in January.

With prices ranging from £8500 to £12,500, the Mazda will use the familiar TS, TS2 and Sport names. But among the three, the TS2 is expected to be the best seller with its four front airbags, traction and stability controls, 15-inch alloys, a powerful CD-MP3 stereo and a nifty multi-function steering wheel.

And because 100 kg has been extracted from its predecessor, this little Mazda assures lightness was well as energy. It comes with a fine body control, MacPherson strut front and torsion beam rear suspension, and wafer-light electrically assisted steering. With these parts and more, the car assures accuracy and excellent driving.

Aside from having more than 4500rpm, the new alloy blocked engine works cleanly and with ease, and yields 48mpg on the combined cycle. Its 140g/km CO2 emission means that its sits in a lower tax band than its predecessor. The 1.5-litre engine also has high tech features like variable inlet-cam timing, variable-length inlet tracks as well as swirl valves to further achieve combustion efficiency.

Top gear is relatively short at 20mph/1000rpm but it does not make hassle sounds and only starts to sound hoarse above 90mph. The car may be mini but it definitely delivers a genuinely spirited driving experience. Good news for small car fans: there are rumors that a three-door MPS version will be arriving later next year.

The cabin is tremendously spacious inside and six-footer passengers are very well accommodated. And despite retaining the same 2490mm wheelbase, the boot is more than just enough. The neat looking dashboard and center console are made up of plastics that contributed a lot in the reduced weight of the car.

The enveloped dimpled dash-top material is rigid and shiny. Although the overall designs are not that impressive, the mini car still feels very rigidly bolted together. And despite a steering wheel with rake-only adjustment, the driving position is spot-on and is visibility good.

About Mazda Motor Corporation

A Japanese automotive manufacturer that is based in Hiroshima, Japan, Mazda Motor Corporation is a well known producer of different types of vehicles as well as their corresponding Mazda OEM parts. It began supplying tools in 1929 and soon branched out into production of trucks for commercial purposes.

The manufacturer’s name is derived from the transcendental God of Zoroastrianism, Ahura Mazda. It is also believed that Mazda coincides with the anglicized pronunciation of Zoroastrianism founder's name, Jujiro Matsuda, and opted to rename it in honor of both his family and the believers of Zoroastrianism. In the Avestan language, Mazda means “wisdom”. Nonetheless, because the company is from Japan, the name has always been pronounced and spelled as "Matsuda". This leads the public to believe that “Mazda” is just an anglicized version of the founder.

The company is expected to produce 1.25 million vehicles annually as of 2006. Among Japan, Europe, North America, and Latin America, its sales will be evenly divided.

Mazda’s 33.4% of controlling interest is controlled by the Ford Motor Company.

About the Author

Kraig Johanssen is a native of Connecticut and holds a degree in Software Engineering. He now works at a software development firm in Alabama. His love for writing and great interest on cars makes him a proficient contributing author to various automotive magazines.

Do aftermarket cams really do any good on a low end car?

2000 Ford Focus 2.0 DOHC 172k miles.
Car finally is started to give me issues, and i am no big car guy. But i am loving the learning while fixing everything, fuel pump, filter, pump filter, spark plugs, coilpack, timing belt, serp belt, valve cover gasket, brakes, spark plugs and wires, PCV valve, headers, and put on a SRI.
So far i been keeping it running and never taken it to anyone

I hear alot of "car guys" always taking about putting on new cams.
And when replacing the timing belt and valve cover gasket i saw how easy it would be to get to the cams. How much of a difference would cams add? I know there are "stages" like OEM, tier/stage 1, 2, 3? And even adjustable ones?
Anyone got a site i could read on this? Or some quick advice or info for me? Or suggestions?
Well i dont mind some MPG loss, but from what you guys say, seems rather large...
Maybe I will just go with another small upgrade
Learn how to put a new caty on

cams can do a lot, including making your engine feel like it is running poorly and rough.
generally speaking you are most likely thinking a higher lift cam. Installing one can gain you some bottom end torque but it wil cost you at the pumps. and definately not run as smooth as factory.
most often people do not just add a cam. quite often more fuel is required to make the engine perform well.
Basically what a cam will do is open your valves sooner and keep them open a little longer than stock.

Chrysler Brand Expands 300 Lineup With New 2012 Models Designed For Different Lifestyles
NEW YORK, April 20, 2011 NEW YORK, April 20, 2011 -- All-new Chrysler 300 SRT8® with its 6.4-liter HEMI® V-8 offers ultimate combination of world-class luxury and performance in Chrysler's most powerful, best-handling sedan ever All-new Chrysler 300S Series brings a youthful and aggressive appearance with athletic style and sophistication With premium materials and ...

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