Mechanic Oil Pan

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The transmission in the Mercedes 126 is a very robust design, as one would expect. In its day, it was one of the best units available, which led Porsche to use it in the legendary 928. But as with all other systems on these cars, we should not let the reputation for longevity stop us from performing frequent services.

As a general rule of thumb, transmission fluid should be changed every 30,000 miles. Unlike modern cars, where the trend is to do away with service access ports altogether, these Mercedes transmissions allow us to drain not just the pan but also the torque converter. In other words, we can remove almost the entire fluid charge without resorting to such gimmicks as power flushes.

Whereas engine oil should be changed hot, transmission fluid is best changed when merely warm to protect the mechanic from a very real risk of scalding. The steps are as follows:

1. Drive the front of the car on to ramps or support on jack stands.
2. Make sure that the torque converter drain plug is accessible. Unless you have been very lucky, you will usually need to blip the engine on the starter to get the plug to come into view through the access hole. It can be "walked" the rest of the way with a large, flat-head screwdriver. It may also be necessary to remove the cross-member between the two front subframes ("dogbones"). The six retaining bolts have 17mm hex heads are are torqued to 45Nm.
3. Loosen the transmission pan drain plug with a 5mm hex socket, then allow the pan to drain into a suitable container. If possible, collect all the used fluid in one container and then measure it; this will help us dispense the right quantity when we refill.
4. When the pan has stopped draining, loosen the plug on the torque converter (same size as on the pan) and allow the torque converter to drain out. There is much more fluid here than in the pan.
5. When the two main flows have ceased, loosen the six bolts retaining the pan (13mm heads) and carefully remove the pan. Don't spill the remaining fluid all over yourself! Resist the temptation to wipe the innards with a shop towel: we don't want any pieces of lint in here.
6. Remove and replace the transmission filter, retained by Phillips-head screws.
7. Thoroughly clean out the pan with a lint-free cloth and replace the rubber gasket, ensuring a proper fit all the way around. Reinstall the pan, torquing the bolts gradually and evenly up to 10Nm. (The manual says 8Nm; a little more is fine. But please don't go overboard: these pans can be warped and they're not cheap.)
8. Replace both drain plugs, using new copper crush seals. Factory spec. is 14Nm, or about 10lbs/ft. Tight with a 3/8 drive works fine. If you removed the cross-member, replace it, being careful not to cross-thread the bolts.
9. (Optional) Crack open the trans cooler lines at the radiator (17mm wrench) and drain the small amount of fluid from this area. Replace the lines if their condition is dubious; they are not expensive. Retighten all connections.
10. Using a fine-mesh filter, add four quarts of fresh Dexron-Mercon transmission fluid (ATF) through the dipstick tube. If you can afford it, use synthetic fluid: it helps keep temperatures down by reducing internal friction, and heat is the number one enemy of automatic transmissions.
11. Start the engine and slowly add another three quarts.
12. Back the car off the ramps, run it through all the gears, pausing for a couple of seconds between each gear, then check the fluid level. You do not want to be over the minimum mark at this stage. Transmission fluid expands greatly when hot; the reference marks on the dipstick are calibrated for hot fluid. So it is o.k. to be half-an-inch or so below that mark while the fluid is cold.
13. Drive the car for about 20 minutes (yes, at least that much) to warm the fluid thoroughly. Transmission fluid takes longer to warm up than the engine oil or coolant and requires the friction of actual driving to get up to temperature. Check the fluid again on level ground. Make sure you don't leave any lint on the dipstick before replacing it in the tube. Any level between the marks is fine, but under no circumstances do we want to exceed the maximum level. If you need to add fluid, do so in very small increments and check again.

If you used synthetic fluid, you may notice that the shifts have become noticeably firmer. Compensate, if needed, by adjusting the modulator valve on the driver's side of the transmission. Turn the little key counter-clockwise until the shift quality is to your liking. Bear in mind that too much slip is bad for the internal clutches.

For more Mercedes 126 repair advice, click here: Mercedes 126 repair.

And for an interesting take on general driving issues, such as speeding tickets and traffic cameras - and their use as money-makers for both the public and private sector - click here: speed traps. There are some hilarious videos on that site.

Change Your Own Scooter Oil And Save Your Scooter Repair Money

In Chinese scooters it is vital to change the oil for ensuring a proper functioning. Most of the riders ignore this important part and therefore the scooter may breakdown in the middle because the engine gets burned out. While changing oil there is no need to spend a dime on the mechanic. Therefore, why you should spend money when you can change the oil yourself?

So before proceeding with the oil changing process it is important that you should arrange for everything what you need. One of the most important things required is adjusting the socket set which is also known as adjustable wrench. Then you also required an oil collection pan or a mini container that has a wide mouth. These are some of the essential item for changing the oil even when you use a cheap scooter. Then, consider the most obvious thing i.e. the oil.

The oil for the Chinese scooters can be anything except the 30 weight. You can either use 10/40, 15/50 or with any combination of the 10-15 or with 40-50 weight but don't ever use 30 weight.

To begin the process of oil change in the scooter, it is necessary to put the scooter on the back stands so that it remains on a balanced level. You can even look out for a large bolt under the scooter or below the engine. After when you remove the large bolt under the scooter or below the engine, you can remove the large bolt and place a container to catch the oil.

Once you put off the cap or the bolt, you can allow the container to drop while the spring and oil screen also come off. It will allow the container to fall and once the oil starts draining you can remove the bolt, spring and the oil screen and then clean them off. Therefore, rinse the oil with dry hands.

You can inspect the oil to see that if it turns milky. This also means that there is water leaking in the other parts of your Chinese scooter and therefore it should be taken to the mechanic for reselling the gearbox. Otherwise, you can also replace the oil screen, the spring and the bolt as well to the bottom of the scooter.

However, there is a caution that you need to follow on adding the oil and so there must be one repair shop but too much of adding oil is not commendable.

When you start adding oil in your Chinese scooter then you can pour some oil and let the oil drain in to the bottom of the tank that can happen within 15 seconds. Once you are done with that, you need to measure the oil with dip stick and there is no need to get screwed in it. You can simply stick it as far as possible back into the oil sprout and pull it out. Once the oil is at a level then you can add some more oil. After doing that it is advisable to start your scooter and let it run for about 1-2 minutes and then shut it off. Once you start again your Chinese scooter will run like a chariot!

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How do I loosen a stuck bolt on the bottom of an oil pan?

The stupid f***s that changed my oil last time screwed the bolt on the bottom of the oil pan so tight that it will not come loose. I have tried using needlenose pliars, a wrench, and a socket to try to loosen it, but it will not budge. I do not want to try too much harder because i do not want to strip the bolt anymore then I already have.....any suggestions what I should do that do not involve violence towards the previous mechanics and their children?

thank you!!

Try letting it soke in something like liquid wrench that you can get from kragen or autozone that helps loosen the bolt so its easier to turn. Also get a little bigger wrench if available for the leverage, dont worry about stripping it unless your sitting there tightening it up rather than loosening it

2000 Alfa Romeo 146 1.6 Twin Spark from Malaysia - Comments
Air Flow Sensor failed and replaced three times (!) Faulty Intake Cam Variator. Head gasket blown at 140,000km. Shifter cup broke, could not select any gear. Had to have it towed home.

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