Manifold Radiator Water

Thanks for visiting our site!
Manifold Radiator Water
Checkout Ebay Auctions For The Cheapest Prices

Check out Amazon:

Account limit of 2000 requests per hour exceeded.

Featured Article :

Can my car run on water? The short answer is yes - it can. However, as with anything, there is a slight problem. It will require an additive for it to run properly - a petroleum-based additive such as gasoline/petrol or diesel.

Note: A little bit of clarification is required here due to the differences between American English and other forms of English. When we talk about gasoline, we are talking about the liquid which is called petrol in a lot of countries but gasoline in America.

Actually you are probably better off using water as an additive for your existing gasoline/petrol/diesel vehicle. Let's face it you already have gasoline/petrol/diesel powered equipment that works, so why not improve what you already have rather than spending huge amounts of money on something different which may not work as well?

Water works well as an additive. There are various claims made as to how it improves existing vehicle efficiency, but generally an improvement in fuel consumption of anywhere from double to triple your mileage on one tank of fuel is possible. A boost in engine performance has also been noted in most cases as well as a reduction in exhaust pollution. The engine also runs smoother, cleaner and cooler, reducing wear and prolonging engine life.

So How Does It Work?

There is a lot of energy locked in water - yes, we are talking about the same stuff that you sometimes drink. Using a small amount of your vehicle's electrical supply (you will not notice the difference), the components making up water are broken down into a gas called Hydroxy or Brown's Gas.

This gas is mixed in the intake manifold or carburettor with the normal fuel mixture thereby increasing engine power, which in turn reduces fuel consumption. When Brown's Gas is burned as a fuel additive, it turns back into water so there are no added exhaust problems caused by using it.

Currently your internal combustion engine only uses about 20% of the energy stored in your gasoline/petrol/diesel - the rest is wasted. 80% of the energy you are buying at the pump is being wasted.

The Cost of the Additive?

With the speed that the cost of gasoline/petrol/diesel is going up, can you afford all of this water? As a rough guide, the water consumption is around 1 quart for about 900 miles (1 litre for 1450km). This of course depends on the size of your vehicle as this system can be used in the smallest of cars (as long as there is room to fit the water container which is normally about 4 inches (10 cm) wide by 8 inches (20 cm) tall) through to heavy trucks (which are going to require a lot more water of course).

The best thing about it is that no engine modifications are required. The system is all add-on only and can easily be removed and installed in another vehicle.

Heavy Trucks?

There is documented evidence of this system improving the fuel consumption of a 12.7 litre turbo-diesel truck engine by 26%. This is on an engine that had done over 1,000,000 (that is one million) miles before the system was fitted. Admittedly it uses more water and the system requires more space in the engine compartment but that does not cause any problems.

Buses?

Why not? If it works in trucks ...

Boats?

Why not? If it works for gasoline/petrol/diesel engines in cars ...

Stationary engines?

Electrical generators as an example? Why not? If it works for gasoline/petrol/diesel engines in cars...

Georges Aramis can reveal that the company set up by Ozzie Freedom was probably the first to offer instructions on how to install a water-additive system to improve fuel consumption. Since then they have further developed their system and now an ebook is available detailing exactly how to assemble and install such a system in your own vehicle. More details can be found here

Car Repair – Car Repair in the Event of Flood Damage

If the engine is running at high revs and (or) the flood is very deep the engine will hydraulic; this means that following the induction of water on the compression stroke, the engine will lock up as water cannot be compressed.

Occasionally, this will cause further issues such as bent con-rods, the risk of which increases if the driver then attempts to crank or start the engine.

If mechanical damage such as this occurs then it isn’t a problem that can be repaired roadside.

WHAT TO DO IF FLOOD STALLED?

1. Never Crank the engine. This can easily cause more expensive damage.

2. Remove all induction components i.e. air filter box, air metering devices and all air ducting and disconnect injectors (electrically)

3. Remove Spark Plugs (Petrol engines) or Glow Plugs (Diesel engines)

4. Dismantle as required to allow water to escape from throttle body and inlet manifold.

5. Reverse step 4

6. Crank engine by hand to check timing

7. Crank engine with throttle pedal fully depressed until all water is ejected; but beware of high pressure water being ejected from combustion chambers. Reconnect Injectors

http://www.car-docuk.com

8. Re-fit one spark or glow plug and crank again. The engine should “cough”.

9. Re-fit second spark or glow plug and crank again. The engine will “cough” and may even run.

10. Re-fit third spark or glow plug and crank again. The engine will probably run.

11. Re-fit the fourth plug and crank again. The engine should run.

12. Ensure all induction components are dry and re-fit using a NEW air filter.

13. Start engine. It should run normally if the engine hunts (faltering revs) the air flow sensor is suspect.

14. Change the oil and oil filter. Mil light may be on so code clearing may be required.

15. Sell the car quickly!

For five, six and eight cylinder engines, the process is the same just repeated for each cylinder.

We hope this information is helpful. Please call Car-Doc UK on 0845 0780628 or visit www.car-docuk.com should you drive your car into a flood. We can get you started by the roadside.

About the Author

http://www.Car-DocUK.com

the HVAC system for 2001 chevy blazer will work for 20 minutes then stop blowing air into the cabin, why ?

i have a 2001 chevy blazer LT model with the vortec 4.2 L V-6 and when i start the car it work ok and then when i drive for about 20 or 30 minutes the the air is not blowing and that you get no air being blown into the cabin at all and Chevy dealer in Roseville,CA says there is noting wrong with it and that it ok but during a cold morning and your cold the heater only works for 20 min and it's fustrating and had the water pump, manifold and radiator rpleaced under warranty due to radiatior cracked and warped the manifold cost me a pretty penny and that i need to see if this HVAC system can be fixed or do i just lived with this issue and when the car is paid off trade it in asap!

As I read this question, you are having trouble with the HVAC fan quitting? If this is the case, you have an intermittent connection problem or a component that cuts out when warmed up. These trucks are kind of a prick to work on so start by getting the fan to quit for you and either start tapping on components or wiggling wires or connectors. Hopefully you will come across some part that starts the fan again, then you will know which component is the suspect one. I would suggest that if this was all working fine before going in for those repairs that something was damaged or not connected properly. The dealer has said to you it is all normal and that is to be expected as they didn't find anything wrong with it when you brought it in. What you have to do is somehow get it into them when it is not working and have them look at it immediately. Set this up with them beforehand so they are not surprised when you show up. There are so many components to this system and I honestly didn't ever see one that was more at fault than the others when I was working on them. That's why I can't give you an exact problem correction today.

1996 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme from North America - Comments
I have a 1996 Cutlass SL. I bought it with 64,000 miles and it now has 162,000. She mainly consists of highway miles. I'm having the same problem with the rotors and the brake pads.

Thanks for visiting!