Inserts Honda Civic
Thanks for visiting our site!
Inserts Honda Civic
Checkout Ebay Auctions For The Cheapest Prices
![]() |
|
1996 1997 1998 HONDA CIVIC JDM TYPE-R FRONT HOOD MESH GRILLE GRILL INSERT BLACK US $26.99
|
New pair rear strut inserts - Honda Civic 1200, 1250, 1500 - GSA3206 US $56.86
|
| Powered by phpBay Pro |
Check out Amazon:
| Account limit of 2000 requests per hour exceeded. |
Featured Article :

The Hondata S300 is one of the most advanced OBD1 Honda tuning systems available on the market. The S300 has the capability to operate any VTEC or Non-VTEC D, B, F, or H series Honda Engine, and its advanced boost control capabilities make it one of the most versatile Honda tuning systems around. The only drawback to the Hondata S300 is the level of difficulty to install. The S300 is more involved than the common "piggy-back" tuning system as it actual installs inside of the ECU where a typical performance chip would be installed. Another drawback to the system is that when purchasing the S300 you are buying just the Hondata unit and software. It is up to you to arrange to have it installed. However, with this step by step tutorial, you can now successfully install your Hondata S300 into your OBD1 ECU yourself!
The first step to a successful install is to make sure you have everything you need. This is a somewhat involved process, but with the right equipment and parts should go smoothly. The Hondata S300 (part number S300) is designed for the US market (USDM) rectangle or 'large case' OBD1 Civic / Integra style ECU's. Hondata part number S300J is designed for the JDM (Japan market) square case OBD1 Civic / Integra style ECU's. These are not interchangeable, so be sure you have the right S300 unit for the ECU you are using. This install guide applies to the USDM variant only. The accepted Honda ECU's to use with the S300 are: P06, PR4, P28, P30, P61, P72, and P75. It is assumed that any non-vtec ECU will only be used in non-vtec applications. If you are going to be using a P06, Pr4, or P75 ECU, you must also perform a non-vtec to vtec ECU conversion with the Hondata S300 installation to properly operate a VTEC engine.
Let's get started. Unscrew both top and bottom lids from your ECU and set both covers aside. On the side of the ECU where the wire harness plugs are you will see a small phillips head screw. Completely remove this screw and the small metal retainer that it holds on the inside of the ECU case and set these aside. Turn your computer upside down and remove all of the screws that hold the circuit board to the ECU case and take note how these are slightly different from the screws for the ECU covers. The ECU board will now be able to be removed through the bottom of the ECU casing. Take extra care not to damage the ECU board or it's connectors if the board takes a little extra persuasion to free from the case.
Now that the board is removed we can begin with the fun part. Using a desoldering tool or desoldering braid, desolder the 28 solder joints marked 27c256, the 24 joints marked 74hc373, and the four holes on the space labeled CN2. You will notice the CN2 section on the board has 5 holes. You can leave the solder joint that is furthest from the ECU connectors filled as it will not be used. On most boards there will be two solder joints labeled R54. These will require desoldering as well. If your ECU does not have the area labeled R54 directly above the 28 hole area marked 27C256, then simply disreguard this step. Clean all areas of the ECU that you desoldered with flux to ensure no loose solder is left on the board or in the way of your desoldered holes. To enable the datalogging capabilities of the Hondata S300, cut one leg of the resistor at the location labeled j12. For a cleaner appearance you may completely desolder and remove the resistor if you wish.
Now on to the installation. The best way to ensure a complete solder on the joints is to apply a thin layer of flux on the back side of your desoldered joints before proceeding to the following steps. Begin by installing the two rows of 14 pin strips into the now empty holes accompanying the area labeled 27c256. Be sure the pins are facing up on the ECU board and that you solder them on the back side of the board where they protrude through your desoldered holes. Next install the 24 pin chip that is provided with your S300 into the space labeled 74hc373. Make sure the half moon notch on the chip faces toward the ECU plugs and then solder into place. Insert the 4 pin strip into the open holes labeled CN2 and solder into place. There should be one hole at CN2 left without anything in it furthest away from the ECU plugs from the earlier step. If your ECU has a space labeled R54, solder the provided resistor into place. Polarity doesn't matter. It can be installed in either direction. Next, press the Hondata S300 circuit board firmly into place on the two rows of 14 pins at 27c256 and four pins at CN2. Take extreme care not to bend or break any pins. Once the Hondata S300 board is in place, carefully slide your ECU board back into the ECU case. Mark on the ECU casing the area that is blocking the S300 USB plug. Carefully remove the ECU board from the casing once again, and using a grinder or hack saw, cut out the marked area to allow your USB cable to plug into the S300 USB port.
Thoroughly clean the ECU casing and circuit board with a quality electrical parts cleaner of any debris or remaining solder flux. Reinstall the ECU board into the casing being careful not to damage any components. Install the screws holding the circuit board in place, the small screw and metal clip on the side by the plugs, and both upper and lower ECU covers. Be sure to carefully affix your new fancy Hondata sticker to your ECU for proper operation.
With the correct parts and patience, the Hondata S300 system can be installed successfully. However, if you are weary of any of the mentioned steps, or doubt your soldering skills, you should pass this job on to one of these professionals to complete a Hondata S300 Installation. Many times the small price paid to have the S300 professionally installed can far outweigh the risk of damaging your computer or your new Hondata unit. Happy tuning!
3 Elements to a Deal-Sealing Classified Ad
3 Elements to a Deal-Sealing Classified Ad
Have you ever wondered why your perfectly fine classified ad fails to attract the attention you desire? There should be dozens-no, hundreds-of perspective buyers swamping your e-mail inbox with offers. After all, you are offering a mint baseball card, a vintage coat, pristine used car, those wholesale-priced sporting goods, and whatever other attractive items are in your inventory. Instead, you only have a slow trickle of questions, a handful of sales. What gives? More than likely, your sales are slow because you have not mastered the three techniques of writing a classic classified ad.
Of course, give yourself credit for recognizing one important facet of today's selling world. You decided to sell your stuff at an online classified site. As anybody in the business knows, online classified ads get you more privacy, a broader selection of buyers, and a wealth of tools to help you keep tabs on your transactions. When compared to a newspaper, cyberspace is also a wee bit more spacious. There are billions of pages on the Web, and only a few dozen in your typical neighborhood rag. For you, that means a lot more space for your ad to say the least.
With that space, however, comes great responsibility-and great potential. The extra room gives you the freedom to include as much product description and sale copy as you want. You can't just slap together a whole bunch of information, though. You need to use the three special ad writing techniques that will attract buyers and seal the deal: attention, interest, and action.
Attention. Make sure the buyer stops at your ad instead of the thousands upon thousands of others out there in cyberspace. Your ad's title is the first lure to grab his or her attention, and the first component of a catchy title is the item's best feature, whether it's the price, the item's rarity, or its popularity. Next, be sure the title includes keywords or other synonyms for your item that a buyer might use in a search. For instance, a buyer could search for "automobile" instead of "car," "pullover" instead of "sweater."
Interest. Once you have the buyer's attention, hook them with details. There is a direct relationship between the amount of information you provide and the number of sales you'll make. So describe the item as completely as possible-size, color, material, designer, model-and provide a clear, digital photo to finish the job where your words leave off. Even offer your prospective customer the item's history if possible.
Also, try to list as many possible benefits that your sales item could offer the buyer. Come up with some that the buyer probably wouldn't think of on his or her own. And zone in on specific benefits. Use what you already know about your target. For instance, if you were selling a car, you know that whoever is looking at your ad is in need of a vehicle. If your car is compact, perhaps the buyer is in search of great gas mileage. Or perhaps it's power he or she wants if your car is a sports model.
Action. Finish your ad strongly. Don't just suggest to the buyer that you offer a great deal. Tell them it's a fantastic offer that they can't pass up. Use phrases like "Call me now before someone else does" or "Buy now, this opportunity won't last long." Be cordial while you're pressing the issue, of course. Thank them for reading your ad and make sure they know you appreciate their business.
Most importantly, your customers will also value your honesty throughout the whole ad. So whether it's the attention, interest, or action you're shooting for, never lie or exaggerate. Go so far to include any defects if your product is not in mint shape. Your honesty will build trust, and trust above all else makes an ad work. What's more, it makes for repeat customers.
Remember, if you use all three of these elements-or four if you include honesty. When you're finished with it, it should read something like the two examples below.
Example 1:
Discover the beauty of a Forest Hill Home
2500 sq. ft. home, 4 bedroom, 3 baths, double garage, upgraded kitchen, 12 ft. ceilings
This open concept house is situated in a historical landmark district of Rhode Island. It's a wonderful neighborhood to raise your family, with nearby schools and amenities.
(Insert your image or photo here.)
Call for an on-site appointment. Thanks for looking!
Example 2:
Looking for an inexpensive used car that drives well? only $4,950.
2003 Honda Civic, Limited Edition, 65,000 miles, manual transmission, CD, AM/FM radio, power steering, low maintenance. Great on gas - this car will save you $$$ on high gasoline prices.
About the Author
The CD Player on my 2004 Honda Civic wont play CDs?
It plays the radio perfectly, and when you insert a CD into it, it tries to read it, and the system says the disc is in there, and the screen reads,READING, but it always ejects it, no matter if it's store bought, or a burned CD. Please help, I've been wondering this for weeks. thank you.
call your local honda dealer for a price on a rebuilt am/fm/cd radio.......your cd player has become defective
Chevy Cruze Impresses in First Cruise
So in spite of 2 years of hype and hoopla surrounding GM's new compact Cruze, I had my expectations bar set fairly low.
Thanks for visiting!

US $46.00