Hot Rod Street

Thanks for visiting our site!
Hot Rod Street
Checkout Ebay Auctions For The Cheapest Prices

Check out Amazon:

Account limit of 2000 requests per hour exceeded.

Featured Article :

When you are browsing RC automobiles online and decide to check the details of an RC electric vehicle that you are interested in (let's suppose it is an high speed on road racing car), this is what you will likely be presented with, if you are on a quality, customer-focussed website, that is:

- SP28404 brushless motor

- SP28405 brushless electronic speed control

- Anodized aluminium centre drive joint

- Compact front/rear differentials

- Suspension arms with adjustable Width

- Anodized aluminium radio tray

- Solid shock towers and front/rear bumper

- High quality on-road tires with chrome sprayed rims

- 7.2v 1100mah Ni-Mh battery power required

- 7.2v 1500mah Ni-Mh battery or 7.4v 1300mah lithium battery pack is optional

- Anodized aluminium motor heat guard

- High duty front bumper foam provides

- Vehicle length: 265 mm

- Vehicle Width: 140 mm

- Height: 80 mm

- Wheelbase: 174 mm

- Track Width: 77 mm (F/R)

- Gear Ratio: 10.6:1

- Ground Clearance: 8mm

- Net Weight: 790g

- Wheel Diameter: 49mm

- Wheel Width: 18mm

How do you make head or tail of this fairly detailed specification for your rc electric vehicle, without it resulting in your eyes glazing over? Help is at hand right here. Let us go through these features one by one and you will be overjoyed with enlightenment.

SP28404 brushless motor

This is the latest, more advanced, powerful type of motor, which is reflected in the overall (higher) starting price of the automobile in which it is fitted. The benefits to you are a potentially speedier, more dynamically efficient RC vehicle, with the added bonus that it should be simpler to maintain. RC automobiles with brushed motors however, are the classic, conventional types.

SP28405 brushless electronic speed control

The RC electric vehicle's speed is regulated with an electronic speed controller (abbreviated to ESC). This is the component that controls the drive motor mentioned above, together with the general electronics. Most automobiles come integrated with the motor and ESC, but are separate purchases in the more enhanced set-ups.

Anodized aluminium centre drive joint

More commonly known as the RC electric vehicle's drive shaft, this is the central rod that runs from the front to the rear of the automobile. Being made of aluminium makes it lighter without compromising on the vehicle's overall stability and sturdiness.

Compact front/rear differentials

A differential is a device that in most cases incorporates gears and is designed to drive each pair of front and rear wheels with equal force, but still allows the wheels to rotate at different speeds. Differentials on good electric vehicles are high performance.

Suspension arms with adjustable Width

The suspension arms provide your RC vehicle with powerful cushioning, as in a conventional car. Being adjustable allows the vehicle to be driven at optimum suspension on different terrains, especially when running over bumpy or rocky ground and when turning corners.

Anodized aluminium radio tray

This is tray that houses the in-built radio receiver in your RC vehicle. Being anodized gives it increased corrosion and wear resistance, making it harder than bare aluminium.

Solid shock towers and front/rear bumper

Integrated with the suspension system, the shock towers provide a damping effect on the overall vehicle suspension.

High quality on-road tires with chrome sprayed rims

The specification for this RC electric vehicle relates to an on road racing car. The makeup of the tires is important here. It is like differentiating between a mountain bike, with its thick, knobbly, high-friction tires and a road bike, with its slimmer, low-friction tires and a less prominent tread. It all comes down to performance requirements on the terrain that the RC vehicle was designed/intended to run on. The chrome rims adds a splash of quicksilver that finishes off the wheels nicely.

7.2v 1100mAh Ni-Mh battery power (required), 7.2v 1500mah Ni-Mh battery or 7.4v 1300mah lithium battery pack (optional)

7.2-volt nickel cadmium batteries are standard power sources, often referred to as battery packs. Although they are identical in size, they differ in capacities ranging up to 3700mAh typically. As the battery pack is extra, it is advisable to go for the largest capacity that you can afford, if you desire more running time (the downside is that you'll need more time to charge it up).

Anodized aluminium motor heat guard

Unsurprisingly, your RC electric vehicle's motor will get very hot. The guard thankfully provides protection against heat, which results from high speed running.

High duty front bumper foam

As with conventional, real-world automobiles, the front foam bumper needs to deliver maximum protection to your RC vehicle against impacts.

Vehicle dimensions

Length, width, height, ground clearance, net weight, wheel diameter and wheel width are self-explanatory.

Your RC electric vehicle's wheelbase will be the length from the leading edge of its front wheels to the trailing edge of its rear wheels.

Track

Track refers to track width, the distance between the center of the left tire and the center of the right tire.

Gear Ratio

This is the relationship between the numbers of teeth on two gears that are meshed or two sprockets connected with a common roller chain, or the circumferences of two pulleys connected with a drive belt.

So, there you have it. We've just covered some of the basic technical terms that you are likely to come across when you are enjoying your time shopping for your future RC electric vehicles. Whatever you do, don't be fazed by these terms - think of it as an educational experience, a journey of discovery that is a part of your enjoyment of RC electric vehicles.

Vijay Patel introduces newbies to the world of RC Vehicles. Find out how easy it is to buy your RC Nitro gas, RC Electric, RC Off-Roader and RC Street Racer car at http://www.rcautomobiles.com, where Vijay welcomes your feedback on how he may serve you better.

Hot Rods and Rice Rockets: Go Fast, Stop Faster

For some people, modifying their car isn’t just a hobby, it’s a passion. It’s an expression of their personality and there is so much you can do, so many details to attend to: speed, style, sound, and comfort are a few of the key areas enthusiasts like focus on. Speed is a particularly popular choice as almost every car on the planet can be made faster.

There are really two different types of performance parts available; fabricated and bolt-on. Fabricated parts are parts that are made, by hand, for you by a mechanic or professional fabricator. These parts are typically expensive, time consuming to make, and again, expensive. Bolt-on performance parts are the most popular choice as the parts are engineered for specific vehicles, they are readily available for purchase, and usually simple to install. Popular bolt-on power modifications include cold air intakes, K&N air filters, lightened pulleys, exhaust systems, hi-flow catalytic converters, and headers. By replacing factory parts with aftermarket parts, you can extract more horsepower from your engine giving you more power on the streets and usually better fuel economy too. The increase in MPG’s comes from the engine not having to work as hard to produce the power you need. That may be tough to understand, so try thinking of it like this: if you are running up a steep hill, you have to work harder and go slower than if you were on a flat surface. You also can’t run for as long uphill because you’ll have to stop and catch your breath more often than if you were running on a flat surface. This is how your car feels with it’s stock parts, but you can make it run better and faster than ever by giving it some aftermarket performance love.

I’ve known a lot of people that spent every spare dime on parts to make their car go faster, but they never put any money into suspension and brakes. Going fast is fun, but being able to stop is even more important. When your car is accelerating and traveling at greater speeds, the suspension and brakes take extra punishment. This is why it’s a good idea to at least ensure that your brakes are receiving proper maintenance. If you’re a true car-modder like myself, you’ll probably want to spend a little time researching parts to find some quality upgrades you can do to ensure you and your car’s safety. Some of the things I’ve looked at doing or have done include DOT 4 rated brake fluid, performance brake pads, oversized brake rotors (or even a Big Brake Kit), a good set of street tires, lowering springs, coilovers, shocks, and even a beefier set of swaybars. Focusing on these parts can make driving your car or truck much more enjoyable and controllable at speed.

As a last word, I want to cover the topic of safety. Modding a vehicle can be exciting, fun, and rewarding, but it is very important to remember that there are other people on the road too. If you are going to work on your car, make sure that you have the time, tools, and knowhow to do the job right. If you fail to properly install aftermarket performance parts, you put yourself and everyone else on the road at risk of injury or death. So stay safe and have fun, if you’re worried about installing something correctly, consult a professional mechanic for guidance.

For more information about modifying your engine and brakes, click on the following links: baer brakes, baer decela rotors, and K & N.

About the Author

Any one familiar with the original Chevy 327 350 horse engine of the 60's?

I'm building one and want a street motor with a lope. I have found manufactures that have the same camshaft profile, and claim it has a "noticable lope at idle". Ihave never heard a factory motor lope and I've been around Hot Rods for ten years. I have never seen or heard an origanal muscle car. Every one my friends or I have owned have all had cams intakes and headers. Making it hard to tell .

These lope from the factory. I have one in my 62 Vette.

The factory setup is a solid lifter design. The valves had to be manually adjusted quite frequently. Real pain. I replaced mine with a Crane hydraulic cam.

The factory setup also has a dual point distributor, also a pain.

Comp Cams just recently released the Thumper cam. It has a nice lope to it yet still performs well on the street.

Checkout the Summit Racing website

Item # CCA-K12-600-8 $1,064.69
Item # CCA-CL12-600-8 $742.69

Fits all Gen 1 Small Block Chevys including your 327

Rethinking Tampa Bay: Where to put the Rays and other local attractions
By Jay Cridlin and Susan Thurston, Times Staff Writers Wednesday, July 28, 2010 Say you could put all of Tampa Bay's sports teams, entertainment venues, tourist attractions and leisure spots into one big pot. If you were building a new city from scratch, what would be the first thing you'd pick to give your city a cultural identity? Which pro team would you rather have in your city, the Rays or ...

Thanks for visiting!