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I have recently had the priviledge of working on the 2000 Nissan Maxima Se 3.0V6. This is a great car, with some common issues reported from other Nissan Maxima owners. One common problem is the intermittent rough idle and the SES light coming on. There are a lot of mechanics telling tall tales about the root cause of these problems, so I thought I would investigate it further.

The first thing we will look at is the SES trouble codes. If the SES light trouble codes show "Primary Ignition Failure", this is generally pointing to the ignition coils. The code may designate a cylinder, or it may say "Multiple Ignition Failure." Obviously, if you are lucky enough to get a code telling which cylinder it is, replace the ignition coil for that cylinder. Pay close attention to the location of the cylinder when ordering the part, as the front and rear cylinders have different ignition coils. They are easy to replace in the front. Simply remove the plastic engine cover using the appropriate hex head screwdriver and then remove the 10mm bolt holding the coil in place. Un-clip the plug from the coil and remove it. Pop the new plug in place and clip the wiring plug back in. Now put the 10mm screw back in, and tighten it down. Replace the cover and that's it. Experienced mechanics can get this done in less than 10 minutes. If you are a novice, prepare for a half hour.

The rear cylinders are also easy, but will require a long extension. i would recommend 6-12 inches for the extension. Locate the 10mm bolt holding it in place and remove it. Unplug the wiring plug, and replace it. Bolt it back in and that's finished. Be careful not to drop the bolt down in the engine though.

What if you get the multiple ignition failure code? Do you replace them all? You can, but the coils run about $70.00 each. Multiply that by 6 and you have a fairly expensive bill. If you have someone else do the work, you can expect to pay over $500.00 for the coil replacements. There is a very simple way to find the bad coils. Remove the engine cover from the front of the engine. Now remove all the 10mm bolts securing the ignition coils in place. Place the ignition coil bolts and the engine cover screws in a ziplock bag and put them in the glove box. Drive the car for a few days until it starts running rough again. leave the car running, and using a pair of channel locks or large plyers (preferably ones that are insulated), pull each coil out one at a time. If the engine DOES NOT change its idle when an ignition coil is removed, you know you have found the bad coil. Replace that coil. Leave them unsecured and drive it some more. Repeat the process until the car returns to normal. In my experience, I have never replaced more than 2 coils. This will end up saving hundred of dollars in diagnostic fees, parts and service.

Good luck, and stay TUNED!

Majestic Modifications is the complete car customization concept, specializing in car accessories, cold air intakes and performance upgrades, auto parts, body kits and exterior accessories, glow gauges and interior accessories, wheels and tires, mobile video, car audio and electronics.

How To Fasten Concrete Brick Machine Anchors To A Block Wall

In many construction applications, concrete brick machine anchors must be fastened to a concrete block to hold a fixture or item of some kind. When installing these concrete anchors, special care must be taken to ensure safe and proper fastening. When fastening to concrete blocks, a number of specific considerations must be taken into account. These include what part of the block to drill into as well as which type of anchor would work the best in the specific application.

What is a concrete block?

A concrete block, cement block, foundation block or concrete masonry unit (CMU), is a large rectangular block used primarily in the construction of walls. Concrete blocks are made from precast concrete, i.e. Portland cement, water and aggregate. The aggregate used for high-density blocks is usually sand and/or fine gravel. Lower density blocks, more commonly known as cinder blocks, may be produced using cinders as aggregrate. These blocks are then layered and stacked vertically to form a wall, and are held together using concrete mortar.

Determine where in the block the anchor should be placed

Before choosing the correct anchor for an application, it is necessary to consider where in the block the fastener should be positioned. Will the fastener be placed in (a) the mortar joint, (b) the solid section of the block, or (c) the hollow section of the concrete block? Some applications may allow each fastener to be placed in the same part of the block while other installations require that each anchor be placed in different sections of the block.

Each section has unique advantages and disadvantages. Fastening into the mortar joint can be an excellent option depending on the quality and quantity of the mortar used to set the block in place. The solid sections of the block usually offer the best quality fastening. This will depend on the distance of the fastener to the unsupported edge of the cavity and the quality of the material from which the block is made. The hollow section of the block is the least desirable section of the block in which to fasten but sometimes can not be avoided. When fastening into the hollow section of a block, there are a few considerations to keep in mind:

(1) When drilling into the block with a hammer drill, the block will spall. This leads to a cone shaped space, with the point of the cone closest to the surface of the block.

(2) When inserting an anchor into this area, whether it's a fastener that exerts pressure or a concrete screw that taps threads into the base material, the holding values will be diminished or become non-existant.

(3) The fastener must not penetrate the wall into the cavity itself.

Determine the type of load to be fastened

The next step in the process is to ascertain the type of load that is going to be anchored. There are three questions that will help determine the type of load each application produces:

(1) How heavy is the item that is being fastened to the block wall?

(2) Will the load be a vibratory load?

(3) Is the load going to be placed where a shock load could occur?

Determine the type of anchor required

Lastly, the type of fastener required for the application must be determined. There are four options available that can be used in concrete block:

(1) Stud-type anchor: where the stud will stick out from the wall. Example: Sleeve Anchor

(2) Hammer-type anchor: where the stud does not protrude from the wall, for a finished look. Example: Hammer Drive, Nylon Nail-It

(3) Female-type anchor: where a screw is inserted into the anchor for a finished look. Example: Machine Screw Anchor, Lag Shield Anchor, Single Expansion Anchor, Double Expansion Anchor, Leadwood Screw Anchor

(4) Concrete screw: screwed directly into the block for a finished look

If using a stud-type anchor, female type anchor, or the concrete screw- the fixture, or item being fastened, can be removed at any time with little or no damage to the concrete block. However, hammer-type anchors are permanent installations. Removing these fasteners will greatly damage the concrete block and possibly the fixture as well.

Anchor types that can be used in concrete block applications

Stud-Type Anchor - Fixture will be removable

Sleeve anchors come in the widest variety of sizes for applications that fall into this category. Anchors with diameters ranging from 1/4" to 5/16" are sufficient for most light duty applications while the 3/8" and 1/2" diameters are adequate for most medium duty situations. Sleeve anchors with diameters of 5/8" and 3/4" are usually considered heavy duty anchors. An engineer should be consulted every time concrete anchors are used for heavy loads. This anchor is very versatile because there is a wide range of lengths available allowing materials of many different thicknesses to be attached to a block wall. The sleeve anchor also comes in a variety of head styles - hex head, flat countersunk and acorn or round head for aesthetics.

Hammer-type Anchor - Fixture will be non-removable

The hammer drive and nylon nail-it anchors are two fasteners that fall into the hammer type category. Neither of these anchors results in a stud protruding from the wall. Both of these anchors are basically non-removable. They are simple to use but should only be used in light duty applications because the only diameter available is 1/4". The hammer drive anchor is produced with a low profile, mushroom head while the nylon nail-it anchor is available in three head styles - mushroom, round and flat countersunk.

Female-type Anchor - Fixture will be removable

There are a number of different female type anchors. The anchor chosen will depend on the type of bolt being inserted into the anchor as well as the quality of the base material. The sizes of these anchors are designated by the inside diameter of the anchor, which is the size of the bolt that will be inserted into it. The different female type anchors and their unique characteristics are listed below:

The machine screw anchor requires a machine threaded bolt with national coarse threads. For example, 1/4"-20 machine screws require a 1/4" bolt with 20 threads per inch. This anchor also needs to be set in the base material using an appropriately sized setting tool. The 1/4" and 5/16" machine screw anchors should be considered for light duty applications and the 3/8" and 1/2" for medium duty. The 5/8" and 3/4" diameter machine screws are typically reserved for heavy duty use.

Lag shield anchors require the use of a lag screw. Lag shield anchors are available in short and long lengths. The length of the lag shield is generally determined by the quality of the base material. The long lag shield is usually used when the quality of the base material is suspect. The extra length of the long lag shield increases its ability to perform properly. The 1/4" and 5/16" lag shield anchors can be used in light duty applications, the 3/8" and 1/2" for medium duty and 5/8" and 3/4" for heavy duty.

The single expansion anchor and double expansion anchor require the use of a machine threaded fastener with national coarse threading. Both anchors work well in most base materials. The double expansion anchor should be used in applications with questionable base material quality. Both the single and double expansion anchors come in a variety of diameters to allow for usage in many different applications. The 1/4" and 5/16" should be used for light duty type loads, the 3/8" and 1/2" for medium loads and the 5/8" and 3/4" for heavier loading applications.

Leadwood screw anchors were originally made from lead. These concrete anchors are now produced from a material called Zamac - a softer, non-corrosive metal. This fastener is used in light duty applications since it is only available up to 5/16" in diameter. The leadwood screw anchor requires the use of a sheet metal screw. Like sheet metal screws, these anchors are also designated by the gauge wire used to produce the screw - #6, #8 and so on. Different lengths are available in each diameter and can be used in applications with many embedment requirements.

Concrete Screw- Fixture will be removable

The concrete screw is designed to tap threads into base materials made of concrete, brick or block. They work well in mortar joints as well as in the solid and hollow sections of a block for light duty loads. They are availabe in a wide array of lengths in both 3/16" and 1/4" diameters. Two different head styles are available - hex head and flat philips for countersinking.

All of the fasteners described above are suitable for use in concrete block- whether it be the solid section of the block, the hollow section or the mortar joint. These fasteners may be used in light or medium load applications with a non vibratory, non-shock load.

Although some of the fasteners listed above may be appropriate for heavy duty loads, it is not recommended to fasten a heavy load to concrete block. The strength and integrity of the block will be limiting and will most likely fail with a load that is too heavy. Heavy duty, non-vibratory, non-shock loads would require a through-bolted fastening technique or a concrete epoxy type fastener. Vibratory and shock loads would also require a through-bolted fastening system, a concrete epoxy type anchor or a cast-in place fastener. An engineer should always be consulted if your application requires any of these fastening techniques.

Additional Information

Many construction projects and applications will require fastening to concrete block. Before getting started, it is essential to choose the correct type of concrete anchor as well as determine in what part of the block to fasten the load. Taking the time to make the right decisions will ensure safe and effective anchoring. There are anchors available for use in a wide range of applications. Load type will also be a determining factor during the installation of concrete anchors. With the right knowledge, research and a bit of patience, anchoring concrete fasteners to block can be a simple process.

As with any anchoring project, it is important to keep safety in mind and follow instructions carefully. Always remember to wear safety googles, handle all tools with extra care and follow all technical specifications. This article is meant to serve as a basic overview of how to fasten concrete block machine anchors into block. Always refer to the manufacturers' instructions or consult a contracting expert during any anchoring project.

About the Author

nbnyzj.com is a professional manufacturer and exporter of all kinds of Single and Multi Spring brick machine.We are a member of Building Block Association with excellent and advanced technology.You can buy cheap concrete brick machine and block machine.

Determining hex head bolt grade?

I rebuilding my 1963 tractor, Allis Chalmers D17. I've taken part of the engine out of the frame, and have dismantled part of the frame. Some of the 5/8" x 3" bolts are moderately rusty on the threads. The head of the bolt is stamped with a square. There are no numbers, hash marks, or other kinds of marking on the head. It's just a square. The other bolts on the tractor are grade 5. What grade are the bolts with a square? I've already looked online and can't find a square marking for the grade of a hex bolt.

I couldn't find anything with the information I have. I would say just throw a high grade bolt in there.

This must have been before all bolts went to a standard for grading? Either that or the square doesn't mean anything and could be a company marking and the bolt is just a low grade.

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