Head Stud Kit

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Head Stud Kit
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Fasteners can give you fits sometimes. Usually they stay tight and in place until you want to remove them. Sometimes they come loose because of vibration. And, sometimes you want them to come loose and they just won't budge. That becomes a problem because a frozen nut or bolt can sheer off, round off or break your tools.

There are several ways to loosen a nut or bolt when it just doesn't want to cooperate. Depending on the situation, you might want to try all of these to get that piece of hardware to move in the direction you want.

Before we begin, let's review the very basics; it's right (clockwise) to tighten, and left (counter-clockwise) to loosen, unless it's a left-handed thread. Look for an "L" on the top of the stud or bolt to identify left-handed threads.

The methods below are applicable to nuts and bolts used in metal and plastic applications, and not nails, screws or staples used in wood. Also, keep in mind that it may be necessary to work both ends of the fastener with a tool to hold it in place or turn it.

Here are the techniques in the order that I would apply them:

1. Apply penetrating oil to the connection that is frozen or rusted in place.
2. Tap sharply on the nut or bolt with a hammer, taking care not to damage the nut or bolt head.
3. Tighten a bit at first and then loosen.
4. Use an impact wrench - electric, pneumatic or manual.
5. Heat the fitting with a torch (if there is no danger of fire or damaging other material).
6. Whack the far end of your wrench with a mallet to act as an impact wrench.
7. Use a longer wrench or apply a "cheater bar" to get better leverage.
8. Cut the fasteners out and install new ones.

If your efforts result in a rounded over nut or bolt, use a pair of vise grips to get a grip.

Note: when using a torch to heat up a fitting, make certain there are no flammable materials anywhere nearby. If you have fuel nearby, move it far away and upwind. Also, use a torch only with adequate ventilation and make certain it doesn't burn material adjacent to where you're working. Check twice for fire, explosion and burn hazards, because it too late once it happens.

Clair Schwan is a do-it-yourselfer who enjoys building, maintaining and repairing things around the house using hand tools, power tools and heavy equipment. He believes in safety first so there are no regrets in the end. See his adventures in self directed living at http://www.frugal-living-freedom.com where the motto is, "...living well, and well within your means..."

Putting Together a Household Tool Kit

If you're like most, you have many of the necessary homeowner's tools. However, are they all in once place? Can you easily put your hands on that tape measure or utility knife? What's more, when's the last time you could located that brand-new hammer or the screwdriver set your mother gave you last year for Christmas?

Putting together a household tool kit with all the basic tools handy makes household projects and repairs a simple endeavor. These basic tools might be kept in a hall closet, kitchen drawer, or in a tool box in the mudroom. Choose a space in your home for your tool kit that is convenient and within reach. Include in your basic took kit these items:

Tape Measure

A 25-foot tape measure will work well for most home jobs. Whether you're measuring for a window treatment, or for new flooring, choose a tape measure that can handle your home's spaces. A smaller, 6- to 12-foot tape measure is ideal for shopping trips or for hanging pictures.

Screwdrivers

While you may have a full collection of screwdrivers, two basic screwdrivers are a must for your household tool kit. Choose a flat head screwdriver and Phillips head screwdriver in a medium size, and both in good quality. Smaller screwdrivers come in handy when you need to fix computer equipment or tighten a pair of eyeglasses.

Pliers

Include in your kit an assortment of pliers in various shapes and sizes. Needle-nose pliers are used most often, but also include heavier pliers for removing nails or large staples. Wire cutting pliers are a must for wiring and craft jobs.

Level

No homeowner should be without a level. A quality, sturdy level will provide much-needed assistance in positioning items such as shelves accurately. Levels are also useful for hanging pictures, drilling holes in a level line, or mounting towel bars.

Hammer

A medium weight hammer can cover most household projects. Include other sizes in your tool kit for more delicate jobs or construction.

Nails and Screws

Purchase prepackaged sets of basic sized nails and screws at your local home center. Place them in a small box with dividers for an assorted collection that will come in handy when hanging pictures or making minor repairs.

Wire Cutters

Too many homeowners consider their everyday scissors as being the tool of choice when it comes to cutting wire. Save those scissors with a pair of wire cutters - ideal for craft projects, electrical repairs, and other household projects.

Spackle and Putty Knife

Spackle is necessary for filling in nail holes prior to painting or to repair scratches or holes in the walls. A small tub of spackle will do nicely for the average homeowner. To apply the spackle, you'll need a putty knife. Putty knives are also useful for scraping paint or repairing wallpaper. They come in metal or plastic and can be purchased inexpensively at your local paint store.

Felt, Plastic and Carpet Dots

Felt pads can also be applied to the bottoms of vases or other decorative items that may scratch a table surface. Plastic or rubber dots can be applied to the back of a framed picture to keep them level. Heavier carpet dots are used to protect chair and table legs from scraping hardwood floors.

Blue Painter's Tape

Resembling plain masking tape, blue painter's tape is blue in color and comes in several widths. Used by professional painters who use the tape to mask off areas they don't want covered in paint, blue tape can be removed from most surfaces without damage. It can also be used for other household projects such as marking stud locations when hanging a picture or installing molding. Blue tape can also be used to tape down runners of kraft paper to protect floors from dirt and scratches when moving.

Utility Knife

A utility knife is useful for opening moving boxes and packages. They can also come handy for wallpapering or craft projects. Homeowners have a variety of utility knives from which to choose.

About the Author

Safecutters
Inc., provides an online store of utility knife box cutters for opening shipping boxes and shipping packages, as well as safety knives to open moving boxes and packages. For more information about Klever Kutter and other Safecutters products contact us!

Wanting to Turbo a '95 BMW M3. What Engine upgrades are needed to make engine handle this kind of power?

So I have to rebuild my engine this summer in my '95 BMW M3. I plan on putting the Active Autowerke Stage II Turbo kit on it soon. So i know that i'm going to need head studs and a copper gasket. But is there anything else that i should think of getting to make the engine more susceptible to this increase in power? I've seen other people change their compression ratios and add upgraded valves, but i dont know much about engines in that sense to know what would build the most reliable turbocharged engine. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

The stage II kit will, according to the manufacturer, get you to 400bhp, which is over double the stock 240hp. That's a HUGE increase in power! Almost all engine internals are designed to take more than the stock power, and moreso with a sports car like an M3, but even still... very few stock engine internals will handle that sort of an increase.

The kit includes most of the externals you'll need - turbo, intercooler, piping, tubing, computer, etc. What it doesn't include, however, is a new exhaust system - you'll definitely want to upgrade to a larger diameter.

Also, the M3's engine is naturally aspirated and the cylinder head, camshafts, pistons, connecting rods and crankshaft reflect this. As such, I'd recommend you think about changing at least your pistons and connecting rods to stronger ones that are better suited to turbocharging and a high-lift cam, as well as take the head into a shop and get it ported, polished, and upgrade your valves, lifters, and springs. You can work with a shop on the correct set for the compression and boost you're running. Not cheap (you're probably looking a grand at least for the pistons and about the same for the rods). Also, from what I recall, the crank is forged in most E36's so you shouldn't need to replace that; however, some did have cast crankshafts, and if yours has one, you may want to upgrade.

And, of course, to match the power, you'll want to get a good set of brakes; at least the front, but it'd be better to get front and back. Look at a set by Brembo, Wilwood, or Stoptech... all great companies.

Hope that helps some! You may want to join a forum that has an E36-specific turbocharging section, if you haven't already. Try bimmerworld.com.

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