Engine Overhaul Gasket

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Engine Overhaul Gasket
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Engine noise suggests a problem has developed that will worsen over time. Unlike a catalytic converter that fails suddenly, pinging, knocking, and clicking sounds tend to slowly build in intensity. If the root causes are addressed during the early stages, they can often be resolved without extensive repairs. On the other hand, if you allow them to persist, you risk exposing your engine to severe - and expensive - damage.

In this article, I'll describe the most common forms of engine noise and explain what causes them. We'll take a look at clicking, knocking, pinging, and detonation. If you notice any of the following noises coming from your engine, have the underlying problems fixed quickly. Otherwise, you may unwittingly set the stage for a costly overhaul.

Oil Pressure And Worn Parts

Low oil pressure can cause a clicking noise that grows louder as your rpms rise. The easiest item to check is your oil level. If it's low, replenish it. If low levels persist, check for leaks. If you're unable to find any, have a mechanic check to see whether you're burning oil.

Next, look at the pressure gauge. If the pressure is low, the valvetrain parts may react noisily. Low oil pressure may be due to an oil pump that has developed a blockage or become worn, or a filter that has become clogged. If you live in a cold area, valvetrain noise may be partly due to using an oil with a heavy viscosity. Switching to a lighter viscosity may reduce the noise.

Bearings, Rods, And Deep Knocks

Deep knocking is caused by severely worn or damaged bearings. It is prevalent in older vehicles, especially those in which the owner has neglected to change the oil and filter on a routine basis. The wearing and damage can also be caused by aggressive driving habits, loose bearings, and adjoining rod bolts that have sustained damage.

It is a serious problem; if you hear knocks, have a mechanic resolve it quickly. Your engine will either seize up or one of the rods will break. In both cases, an overhaul or replacement will be necessary.

One option is to simply replace the bearings. But, that is merely a stop-gap measure. Chances are, if the bearings are damaged, a mechanic will need to resurface the crankshaft. That can be expensive.

Pinging And Detonation

Pinging can be caused by overheating, low-quality gas, carbon deposits within the combustion chamber, or a failing EGR valve. The main symptom is an erratic detonation of fuel. Over time, it can lead to severe damage of the head gasket, pistons, and rod bearings.

Each form of engine noise described above may seem relatively benign in the beginning. A subtle clicking, knocking, or pinging might not imply a sense of urgency. They should. These noises will gradually grow more pronounced. As they do, they promise damage for critical parts. If you hear them, take your car to a repair garage and ask a mechanic to fix the underlying problem. With a little luck, you'll avoid an expensive overhaul.

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Questions To Ask When Buying A Used Car - Part 4

You can save a lot of time and fuel by making a list of questions to ask when buying a used car, and phoning around before you try and drive. In part three of my used car buying tips article series, I covered the topics of organized note taking during phone interviews, rust awareness, and problems the owner may have knowledge of concerning their own car. In this part I'll go over some specific mechanical aspects which are typical problem areas with used cars.

Engine Issues:

How is the engine? Does it burn oil? This is a good thing to know because an engine that burns oil is worn out to some degree. When a car is burning oil it means that the oil in the engine, which is there for lubrication and cooling purposes, is escaping into the combustion chamber somehow, and going out the tailpipe as blue stinky smoke. That means that the car is excessively polluting the air, and more oil must be added to replace what has been lost. These things can be expensive to fix.

Similarly, oil leaking from the seals of the engine will land on the ground and end up polluting the streams, rivers and oceans in your area. Like the increased air pollution from an oil burning car, the oil leaking car is an environmental menace. Repair of oil burning problems usually requires a major overhaul of the engine. Oil leaks may require similarly complex repairs, or they may be much simpler. A leaking valve cover gasket is a very common oil leak affecting many cars which can be repaired with a $6 gasket and an hour of labor.

Transmission:

Ask the owner if the transmission shifts without any grinding. If not, this can be expensive to fix. Ask them about the clutch, when it was last replaced, and if they have the bill for it. If it has never been replaced, that's not necessarily a bad thing. It may indicate that the car has been driven gently. It could be a $500+ job if it needs one though, which is ok if the asking price reflects that needed work.

Tires and Wheels, Glass and Exhaust:

Ask them about the tires. New tires cost around $100 each and up, depending on the car. Are the wheels steel or aluminum? Aluminum ones cost more when the car was new, and are generally more valuable, and nicer looking. Is the windshield cracked or pitted? New ones start at around $200 and go up from there. How about the muffler? Is it quiet? When was it last replaced? A new one of decent quality will cost a few hundred bucks minimum.

Brakes:

Brakes need to be done every couple of years on any car. When were they last done? Both front and rear? You can expect to pay $100 per wheel to have them done at least. You will need to have the brakes up to standard to insure your newly purchased used car, as a vehicle inspection is usually required by insurance companies. This is a good thing since it can save your life and the lives of others.

Paint:

What color is the car? How does the paint look? Like the rust question, this is a matter of perceptions, but its worth asking. Has the car ever been painted? If so, when? New paint may indicate that the car was rusted, or in an accident. New paint can be a good thing, especially if the paint has been there for a few years and still looks good. Original paint is the best though, because then you can see that there's no rust or accidents, and they do paint right at the factory!

Interior Condition:

How is the interior? The condition of the upholstery is easy to see, and may reflect the level of care that has been taken in looking after the rest of the car. Find out what color the interior is too. Do you like that color? Asking if the car has ever been smoked in is a good idea if you like things that are clean. The difference in cleanliness between the interiors of a smoker's car and a non-smoker's car is quite remarkable.

The Price:

What is the asking price? It says in the ad, but ask anyway and make sure you are both on the same page about this important detail. Are they flexible on the price? See what they say.

The Location:

Find out where the car can be seen, and when. If they don't want to meet you at their home, that should be a red flag. They may have lots of cars there, and try to meet you somewhere, anywhere but their place! Seeing where they live and the condition of their home will give you greater insight into how they take care of their lives, and therefore their cars. I like to go to their place to see what it looks like, so I can get a feel for how they take care of their stuff.

About the Author

Mike Willis is a avid blogger and VW entusiast. Be sure to check out his Car Buying Tutorial and his cars blog @ Carsopia.com

Mitsubishi Colt 1.5 Carburettor is misfiring.?

Hello. My "Mitsubishi Colt" which is a 1992 1.5L carburettor engine is having misfiring symptoms. Each time I accelerate from 0 km/hr, I get a small "lag" in power, which I believe is called "misfiring". I had it checked at a garage, and they replaced my spark plugs for free (only 3 months old - they claimed factory defect, hence F.O.C). The engine does run a bit smoother after having the spark plugs replaced, but I still get the lag. Here are some of the possibilities I have looked at :
1) Dirty engine : Recently did servicing on car, with fully synthetic oil, new air filter, fuel filter and spark plugs.
2) Distributor : Barely a year old, as well as the spark leads
3) Alternator : Quite old, but does not have symptoms of alternator problems
4) Compression problems : Had a top overhaul (top engine gasket replaced) about a year ago.

I cannot think of any other possibilities. Please help! Ta

Carburrettors dont misfire but if you have"lag" or a flat spot It sounds like your accelerator pump is not working.You can test this yourself by removing the air cleaner so you can get a good view down inside the carburrettor.With the engine switched of just manually turn the throttle arm while looking down inside the carb.You should see a jet of fuel squirt into the throttle body,this sometimes looks like a vapour depending on the delivery system.If its not working then you have a blocked jet or delivery tube or the diagphram which is your accelerator pump has a hole or tear.If you know what a diagphram housing looks like youll easily find it on the side of the carburrettor if not youll have to take it back to the garage.

1999 Hyundai Galloper Exceed 2 from Saudi Arabia - Comments
Mounting points on plastic light bar tend to break VERY easily. Gave up repairing them. Radiator had to be replaced at 32000 kms. Stock cooling system is very weak.

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