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1964 1/2 Ford Mustang D Code

Were available in a Convertible or a Coupe the fastback wasn't introduced until the summer of 1964.

The Vehicle Identifications Numbers where made in line with the available components and later changed with the introduction of full production 1965 Mustangs.

The pre-production models where all still stamped 1965; came from the Dearborn plant. This dictated the first two characters and

VIN 5FO8DXXXXXX

VIN 5FO3DXXXXXX

Many options even in the early model where available, Factory D code 289 4V, factory 4 speed top loader. A power top for the convertible and air conditioning for all.

The example in the photo is original Raven Black exterior, white standard interior in good condition. Excellent straight and rust free body, although in need of a rebuild it is a great example of something from the era. Motor has been rebuilt. Drives well.

Also the original features include generator and large 64 style horns on front rails with the originally Spinner hubcaps, fords mustangs were stylish from the start.

So what's the difference between a '64-1/2 and a '65 Mustang? Not much and yet everything. From 50 feet away, they look the same; close up, they host quite a number of differences. The '64-1/2 Mustangs have always been '65 Mustangs, by their stamp but that's where it ends. As enthusiasts, we call them "'64-1/2" because it's what it is, but it's also a cult thing. Early '65 Mustangs have the distinction of being the first batch of Ponies ever produced. They were the initial part of the Mustang madness that swept the world in 1964. And if you have a "'64-1/2" built at Dearborn, that makes it even more significant in the relative scheme of things, because it was born in the motherland.

When the Mustang entered production early in March 1964, it didn't have many of the features it would have later on; call it a re-skinned Falcon with bucket seats. To be a '64-1/2 at all, a Mustang has to be factory-equipped with a generator charging system, a 170ci six (U-code), a 260 2V (F-code), or a 289 4V (D-code) low-compression, large horns mounted down on the frame behind the radiator, a brake light pressure switch on the master cylinder, a center "off" heater fan switch, and a generator charge light, just to name the basics. These are features exclusive to Mustangs built between early March and July 31, 1964 (scheduled build date code only).

Brad Young is an Internet marketer and automotive enthusiast.

Muscle Cars Blog:
Muscle Cars Blog

Clean Title Salvage Cars

Many people are downright afraid to buy a car through a salvage auction. They assume that all salvaged cars are completely totaled, and cannot be repaired to run again. In fact, nothing can be further from the truth. It is possible to purchase clean title salvage cars if you just know where to look and what to look for.

First, understand the difference between clean title salvage cars and salvage cars. Clean titles are just that – they may be damaged or in need of some work, but they have had no major body or engine damage. Depending on the state in which you live, a car may have a clean title as long as the damage done to it is under a predetermined percentage of the cars total value. In most cases, you can be sure that a clean title car has not had major repair work or suffered from a catastrophic incident such as flooding. A salvage title car differs in one major way it has been declared a total loss due to flood, fire, vandalism or collision. This damage may actually be quite minimal. If the insurance company believes it would be more expensive to repair the damage than to replace the car, they may ‘total' it. It is then given a salvage title.

Still, even when told a vehicle has a clean title, many potential buyers are still hesitant. For years, it was easy for an unethical car rebuilder to ‘doctor' titles. Also, it was difficult to collect a complete history of a vehicle. For example, a car may have a clean title under the rules of one state, but a salvage title under the rules of another. This wariness has, in a large part, become ingrained, making many people afraid to purchase cars from a salvage auction. The good news is, the Internet has revolutionized even the car title industry. All reputable salvage auction listings will present you with a complete history of a vehicle, based on the Vehicle Identification Number (VIN). There are several services that offer this, the most popular of which is CarFax. This allows you to feel confident that the title is ‘clean,' ‘salvaged' or ‘rebuilt.'

In many states, it is possible to purchase a salvaged car at auction, rebuild the car, and then acquire a clean title for it. If you buy through Auto Bid Master, the representatives who work with Copart auctions can help you determine what the title regulations are for your state, and how you can get a clean title for your salvage car.

In short, while it used to be a roll of the dice when buying a vehicle from a salvage auction, today there is simply no reason not to consider purchasing one. Whether you are looking for clean title salvage cars or would be happy with a rebuilt or salvaged title, looking closely at rebuildable car listings will allow you to find the car you are looking for at the price you want.

About the Author

Click here to read the rest of Clean Title Salvage Cars. If you enjoyed this article, you also might like our other stories about Copart Auto Auction

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Power brake booster makes loud creaking noise when brakes are applied?

1983 Ford F150 4WD,302 engine with power brakes. The power brake booster unit was replaced about 2 years ago with a rebuilt one. Truck driven less than 3000 miles since. When brakes are applied, a loud creaking noise appears to be coming from the end of the power booster where the pedal rod connects. The master cylinder is not leaking fluid into the booster unit.
Is their anything to lubricate on the pedal end of the booster? It is covered by a cap which requires the unit to be off the vehicle to inspect. Dont want to spend the effort to remove if nothing to lubricate.

have you check to see if the brake rod going thru the fire wall is rubbing on the fire wall.there is a rubber grumet that goes on the hole in the fire wall they could have knock it off when they installed the power booster.

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Second practice is under way at Hockenheim after Force India's Adrian Sutil sets the fastest time in the opening session.

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