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If you love Mazda rotary engines and make that emotional decision to buy a classic car like an RX-7 or even a more prized model such as an RX-3 or R100, it's not long before you start thinking about a rotary rebuild and modifying the engine to give it more power or noise, or if it is a stock engine, keeping it in the original shape.

While the life expectancy of a rotary engine varies depending on the usage and care it gets, it is accepted that a rotary engine rebuild will occur more frequently to a similar piston engine. However, unlike a piston engine that can be dismantled in part while it is still installed in the engine bay, a rotary engine needs removal from the car to do any internal inspection.

Because these engines are quite easy to work on, many enthusiasts have pulled them apart and reassembled them and found they will still go! This has often given these people a false sense of security that they know what is what when things couldn't be farther from the truth.

A rotary rebuild is a very technical and methodical process where many of the parts that are going to be reused require specific cleaning and polishing, the rotors in particular need precision balancing to eliminate vibrations and exact fitting of the side and apex seals.

If any porting is to take place, this must be done with the utmost care to ensure that:

The flow volume across all the ports is the same, uneven port flow causes incorrect temperature distribution due to varying combustion temperatures, one rotor housing could be very hot due to a leaner mixture entering the chamber, while the other housing could be operating much cooler due to too much fuel mixture for the amount of oxygen. This rich running can also cause excessive backfiring and detonation issues damaging the motor.

The exhaust ports must also have precise modifications to ensure the gases leaving the combustion chamber are doing so in a controlled fashion and not escaping into the next intake of fuel and air.

It is quite common for enthusiasts and 'backyard' operators to try to skimp on parts costs, therefore reusing items that should be thrown away after the engine strip down. These include worn rubber seals and gaskets, bearings with play in them, even old rotor side and apex seals. Saving a few cents here and there usually results in a much more expensive problem later.

That is why it is in your best interests to have the rotary rebuild undertaken by rotary engine specialists.

Grant Munro is a very highly skilled rotary engine specialist learning this trade from his father, one of the most knowledgeable and respected engineers to race and rally car operators, providing top quality engines to competitors around the world.

You can find out more at: http://www.rotarypower.co.nz

Review of the Triumph Thruxton 900

Just as much as it is a motorcycle in its own right, Triumph's Thruxton is a time machine. Just admiring a Thruxton from afar will get images of black Brando jackets, oil-spattered leather boots and striving to break 'The Ton' flitting through your mind, while actually taking one for a spin gets the nostalgia flowing in a torrent.

The low-set clip-on 'bars, the gleaming chrome of the bullet headlight and the rasp of the tapered silencers all play their part in sending you back through the decades, when the term 'Café Racer' was born on London's busy city streets, in biker haunts like the Ace Café and the Busy Bee.

Fortunately, although its styling harks back to the days when the British bike industry was king, the Thruxton has its wheels planted firmly in the present.

With an electric start, disc brakes front and rear and modern suspension, this retro street racer gives you all the thrills with none of the heartache - if you're a true purist, you'll even have to place your own pool of oil under this one...

Launched in 2004 and named after the historic British circuit, the Thruxton is basically a café racer version of the marque's leading retro classic, the Bonneville, but with tweaked suspension, brakes and steering geometry, clip-on 'bars, megaphone exhausts, a 'shorty' front guard and a seat hump, the latter simply a cover that comes off to reveal space for a pillion.

The faithful will scorn the lack of a kick-starter, but a press of the button sees the Thruxton readily fire and quickly settle into a steady, throaty burble, care of the optional factory silencers our test bike came fitted with.

On the road its manner are pure modern-day - its preload adjustable suspension does a good job of smoothing the bumps, its disc brakes haul it down from speed well and it tracks a line through a corner beautifully.

It won't keep pace with the big multi-cylinders, but its 69 horses are respectable enough, especially when compared with the outputs of the bikes upon which it's been styled.

Its carburetion is clean, and although redline is an indicated 7500rpm, there's no need to reach these heady heights - riding its meaty mid-range is the order of the day.

For the nit-pickers, there are still a few Thruxton foibles. Firstly, in an absent-minded moment it's possible to cook your left knee on the cylinder head, although this isn't such an issue if you're wearing leathers.

Secondly, the separate steering lock means it's possible to ride off with the steering lock on. Just like the old days, granted, but we've moved on in this respect for good reason.

Finally, the tank filler cap isn't lockable. Maybe not such an issue back in the day, but perhaps a little too tempting these days for some light-finger with too much time on their hands, even if their aim is purely to cause annoyance and aggravation...

For those with an affinity with café racer-style bikes of the 60's and 70's, the Triumph Thruxton 900 offers a truly modern package with the style and edge of yesteryear. It's a potent combination, and one that I'm sure will keep the café racer ethos alive and well for many years to come.

SPECS: Triumph Thruxton 900
Engine: 865cc, air-cooled, four-stroke, DOHC, eight-valve, parallel-twin
Bore and stroke: 90 x 68mm
Compression: 9.2:1
Fuel system: twin Keihin carburettors
Power: 69bhp @ 7200rpm
Torque: 72Nm @ 6400rpm
Transmission: five-speed
Frame: tubular steel cradle
Front brake: single 320mm disc with twin-piston Nissin caliper
Rear brake: single 255mm disc with twin-piston Nissin caliper
Front suspension: 41mm forks, adjustable for preload
Rear suspension: twin shocks, adjustable for preload
Wheels: spoked alloy
Tyres: Metzeler ME33 Laser; 100/90-18 front, 130/80R17 rear
Seat height: 790mm
Wheelbase: 1490mm
Claimed dry weight: 205kg
Fuel tank: 16.6L
Price: $13,990 plus ORC
Colours: Tornado Red or Jet Black
Warranty: 24 months/unlimited kilometres

About the Author

InsureMyRide operates across Australia and only provides motorcycle insurance products to riders. We deal directly with customers on-line and over the phone. (So if you're a broker, we can't fix insurance for you.)

InsureMyRide only covers private motorbikes.

Can someone help me pick out a carburetor for my 1979 corvette?

I have a 1979 corvette that need a new carb. the guys at holley said to get a 670 street avenger but they only asked for the engine size and the max rpm. Barry grant asked for the engine size and cam specs as well as rpm and quoted me a race demon but never gave me the cfm. my car has a 350 sbc thats been bored making it a 355. the max rpm i would take it to is 6. the cam duration is 282. i have forged dommed pistons as well as forged rods. i have world industries sportsman II heads and the desktop dyno is estimating I have about 408 horsepower without taking account of the dommed pistons, so im guessing 420 horse with just under 10:1 compression. Can anyone kinda point me in the right direction with a carb without saying edelbrock? I know edelbrock is the "better" carb, its easier and what not but i dont want one.

with what you have you need a 700 CFM carb of your choice.

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