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The most important gear to take with you while offroad riding is safety gear. This means primarily the clothing you wear - gloves, helmet, padding, armor, back protection.

Dress according to the conditions you are riding in - if you are riding in the rain, mud or through creeks and rivers, wear waterproof clothing. If you are riding in hot conditions, wear loose, lightweight clothing.

In terms of protection - the parts of your body which hit the ground first when you come off are the ones that need protection. That means your head, your knees, your feet and your hands. There is plenty of good gear to purchase to protect these parts of your body.

The other important gear to carry depends on how long you are going away for. If you are away from civilization for most of the day, then take plenty of water and food with you, in case you are unable to return to the luxury of civilization within your given time frame. Being hungry, tired and possibly sore from injury is no way to spend long hours away from creature comfort, and the convenience of shops.

It's good to carry a basic medical kit in case the worst occurs and somebody injures themselves on the ride. Getting medical attention out in the wilderness can be difficult if not impossible. There are plenty of good, compact medical kits available to take with you.

Carrying some spare parts and limited tools is ideal. You usually only need a limited range of tools to fix these problems, plus the important spare parts.

If you think you will need to stay overnight on your journey, you need to carry two things as a minimum - some form of bedding which will keep you warm enough through the night, and some form of protection from the wind and rain. This could be as simple as a sleeping bag and bivvy bag or tarpaulin.

In terms of water, most riders like to take a camel-back with them. A camel-back is a water bag you carry on your back, with a tube to drink water from hooked into it.

In terms of food, high energy bars are good in terms of their small size and energy delivery for trail riding.

The last thing to carry is gear that helps you attach all of your gear to the bike. There are a range of bungee cords and tie down straps you can use, as well as luggage systems. This is important because you don't want your gear to fly off as you are bouncing around on the trail.

Here is a comprehensive list of gear you should consider carrying with you on your ride:

Survival gear -

- Survival card

- First aid kit

- Flashlight

- Glowstick

- Compass

- Knife or multi purpose tool

- Pen and note pad

- Waterproof matches or cigarette lighter

- Maps

Tire tools -

- Tube for front tire

- Tire pump

- Tire irons

- Valve stem remover

- Tire gauge, 1 lb increment, 1-20 psi

- Tire mousse

Tools -

- Tool kit

- Spark plug wrench

- Chain break tool

- Tie downs & tow strap

- Duct tape

- 6-in-1 Screwdriver

Bike parts -

- Spark plug

- Shift lever

- Brake lever

- Clutch lever

- Clutch cable

- Spare bulbs - headlight and taillight

- Master link

- Sidestand springs

- Zip ties

- Fuel line and filter

- Assorted screws, bolts, etc. to fit your bike

- Hose clamps

Riding Gear -

- Glove liners/waterproof gloves

- Extra gloves

- Extra goggles

- Water bottle

- Water bladder/drink system Medium Backpack

- Riding Jacket

Other options -

- Extra bungee cord

- Pack straps

- Garbage bags

- Hand cleaner

- Shop rag

Overnight stuff -

- Waterproof jacket and/or rain gear

- Extra socks

- Extra jersey

- Long sleeve shirt/sweatshirt

- Sleeping bag

- Sleeping mat/pad

- Tent or Bivvy bag

- Shampoo/soap

- Toothbrush/toothpaste

- Extra zip lock bags

- Eating utensils

- Spare Shoes

- Back pack: Medium Backpack

- Towel

- Hat

- Lock to secure bike at night

Once you have chosen which Dual Sport Motorcycles is best for you to ride, and you have made your purchase, you are ready to head out on your first ride.

Dual Sport Motorcycles is a good source for information on everything about enduro riding, offroad riding, choosing the best dual sport motorcycles and equipment, etc.

The 2.8L Audi A4 Engine

The B5 platform-based Audi A4 was sold between 1996 and 2001. The top Audi A4 engine in Europe was a 2.8l V6, one of nine engines shoppers could choose from in Europe. In North America the only Audi A4 engine available at launch was the 2.8l V6, which was also the sole engine available in its predecessor, the 80 model.

This Audi A4 engine is a 90 degree V6 with a cast iron block and alloy cylinder heads. In its original form it has twelve valves opened by single overhead cam (SOHC) heads. It produces 174 horsepower and 184lb ft. torque.

Note that while Audi often shares parts with its parent company Volkswagen, this Audi A4 engine is not related to VW's VR6, even though this engine was offered in similar sizes and power outputs. In more recent years both the 90 degree motor and the VR6 have been place in the Audi A4's engine bay. While Audi A4 engine is smoother and more powerful, it is heavier than the single head VW unit.

The Audi A4 engine uses a variable length intake manifold. This manifold has two intake tracks. At slow speeds, air is directed through a long intake track for better torque, while at high speeds air comes through a very short track for improved breathing, providing top end power. This gives similar performance to early two-stage variable intake valve systems without the complexity.

While the Audi 80 used the AAC version of the 2.8l, the Audi A4 engine got the revised AFC version. These changes mainly affect the head design, using a lighter camshaft with revised valve timing, a simpler, lighter valve spring assembly, and smaller diameter intake and exhaust valves. The oiling system was also upgraded, with a larger oil cooler, larger filter, and more effective oiling system. While it may be possible to put an AAC motor in an A4, the original Audi A4 engine is more reliable thanks to these upgrades.

A new head with five valve per cylinder was developed by Audi Sport for use in touring car racing and eventually made its way onto several of Audi's engines, starting with the new 1.8l turbo, and eventually the 2.8l. This Audi A4 engine choice included this new 30 valve layout in Europe starting in 1996, and would replace the 12 valve engine in the American market when the car was refreshed in 1998. Power went up to 190 hp 203 lb. ft. of torque. The head also has dual overhead cams, but everything outside of the heads is similar to the twelve valve engine.

The Audi A4 engine gained twin turbochargers in the S4, the A4's sports model. Different pistons were used changing displacement slightly: Officially it is a 2.7l engine, although it was sometimes quoted as being a 2.8l. This engine produces 261 horsepower and 295 ft. lbs. of torque. The 2000 and 2001 A4-based RS4 used a version of this engine modified by Cosworth Technology to produce 375 horsepower and 325 ft. lbs. of torque. This car was never sold in America, and the engine doesn't make a good Audi A4 engine swap candidate due to the width of the engine. The RS4 uses wider front body panels to accommodate the extra piping and larger turbo added by Cosworth.

Audi A4 engine choices expanded with the introduction of the B5 platform in 2001, but the 2.8l was replaced by a new 3.0l after being used for over a decade in Audi's lineup.

About the Author

We have excellent availability of your Audi A8 engine and Audi A8 used engines. Please visit our site or call 800-709-9233.

Is this a decent car? Speed, Power, Acceleration, Top Speed, Pickup, Etc, Wise?

1997 Mazda MX6 LS - 150,000 miles, $5500

Engine Type V6, dual overhead cams per bank, 24 valves
Engine Size 2.5 liters, 152 cu. in.
Horsepower 164 @ 5600
Torque (lb-ft) 160 @ 4800
Transmission 5-speed manual
Wheelbase / Length 102.8 in. / 181.5 in.
Curb Weight 2800 lbs.
Pounds Per Horsepower 17
Fuel Capacity 15.5 gal.
Fuel Requirement unleaded premium
Tires P205/55VR15 Bridgestone Potenza RE92
Brakes, front/rear vented disc / solid disc
Suspension, front/rear independent struts with coil springs &
stabilizer bar /
independent struts with coil springs &
stabilizer bar
Drivetrain front engine, front-wheel drive

PERFORMANCE
EPA Fuel Economy - miles per gallon
city / highway / observed 21/26/23
0 to 60 mph 8.2 sec
1/4 mile (E.T.) 16.1 sec
Coefficient of Drag (cd) 0.31

yes it is decent, if it has been well maintained dont worry about the miles. Most engines today are lasting to 300k+
If you are concerned about mpg this might not be the best car for you.
also seems to have a good amount of power.

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