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The Veloce company was formed by a family of motorcyclists, which showed through the design and quality of the manufacturing of the machines called Velocette.

That family was the Goodman's, and three generations controlled the Hall Green firm over the years.

Between the years 1913 to 1925, Velocette produced high quality, but expensive 250cc 2-strokes, which gained an excellent reputation, that were entered into competitions such as the Isle of Man TT races. The single cylinder manchines had many advanced features for their time, which included amongst others a throttle controlled oil pump. It was these advanced features that set them apart from the other manufacturers, and this model was gradually developed over the years.

In the Early 1920s, the company realised that in order to grow, it required a new machine which had advanced specification and set about developing an overhead camshaft 350cc engine, which became known as the K series, which was introduced in 1925. After suffering a year of minor problems with the new design, they entered into racing events such as the TT and Brooklands races. The reliability and good running qualities of the new engine led to a string of racing successes.

By 1930, they had made their name in the TT with wins in the Junior race in 1926, 1928 and 1929 using the OHC engine. They had also reached the end of development for their first 2-stroke engine.

This engine was the 249cc GTP, and it moved away from the overhung crankshaft of its predecessors. The other machines they produced all had 348cc OHC engines, which had slim, light lines along with a bevel and shaft drive on the right. The magneto was fitted to the rear and was chain driven. The lubrication was dry sump and the dynamo, when fitted, went in front of the crankcase and driven by a flat belt.

Three models were offered. The KSS for sporting roadwork, for the racers, there was the Mark 1 KTT, which became the first production racing machine to be sold to the general public and was based on the 1928 works machine. The third model was the KTP, which had coil ignition and twin exhaust ports.

In 1933, the KSS and KTS models had four speed gearboxes introduced, however there was still a big gap between the small 2-stroke and the sports camshaft models.

To fill this gap, Velocette experimented with a side valve 350cc model, which unfortunately lacked power, and then designed the 248cc MOV model. This had the OHV engine, a high gear driven camshaft, enclosed valves and nearly square dimensions. It provided good performance and the early models could produce speeds of 60mph and the later tuned models were capable of 100mph.

In 1940, the company listed their road range of machines, but before production could start on these, war broke out and the company switched to general contracts. During this time, they built other machines as one offs and for their own racing. The parts were mostly interchangeable and it did not cause problems, this practice soon spread to private owners.

After the war ended, the company sought to capture what it saw as a developing need for transport and created the LE model. This was a 192cc watercooled flat twin with side valves. It was sophisticated, but expensive, and proved less successful than the company had hoped and although it became their best selling model, the massive tooling costs for this new machine were barely recouped.

The late 1960s were the last years of production for Velocette motorcycles. Production for the Viper and Vogue ended in 1968, the Special, Scramber and Endurance ceased in 1969 and the MSS Venom and Thruxton ceased production in 1970.

Veloce Ltd closed in February 1971.

Dawn Martin has been interested in motor vehicles since an early age. She has recently commenced a blog on the history of classic vehicles and is currently researching trucks, motorcycles and cars and producing downloadable publications which can be found on her website and in the members area.

She hopes that you will take the time to visit her sites
Classic Motor History Blog
Classic Motor History

Info On Your Late Model Toyota Tacoma Engine Or Vw Engine

Toyota and Volkswagen have continued to make improvements to the motors they put in vehicles. This article will focus on the 2.0L VW engine offerings of late as well as the recent Toyota Tacoma engine developments and how to go about replacing either. The good news is that both of these brands have developed fantastic motors. The bad news is that if you need a VW Engine or a Toyota Tacoma engine, you can easily make two serious mistakes. Read on to find out what steps you need to take to protect yourself and get a great motor.

There most common VW engine that have been in use in the last decade that suppliers across the United States have seen a serious demand for is the 1.8L Turbo. It is important to get a free vehicle history report for any 1.8L you consider purchasing, simply because this is perhaps one of the most mileage sensitive motors ever made. This engine has two problems: excessive sludge leading to the loss of ability to properly lubricate moving parts and premature timing belt failures. This author considers any timing belt that can't regularly go 120,000 miles without failure to be cheap. The 1.8L requires timing belt changes at 80,000 miles. I've sold many of these to customers who had 81,000 miles or less on their original engine when this part failed. You should replace the timing belt and water pump on any 1.8L Turbo that you purchase. Low miles are important though because once an engine is sludged, its sludged. If you use excellent oil and do early oil changes, these engines won't sludge. What you don't want is to get a motor with 80,000 miles that is already sludged – so check things out with a vehicle history report.

Another VW engine that has seen increased demand is the 1.9L Diesel engine. I believe this to be an excellent quality engine. It is rare for a customer to contact us looking for one of these if they have less than 175,000 miles on their original. That said, due to rarity, these are expensive and many suppliers will lie on miles when quoting these engines. After all, a good 1.9L diesel can run $4,500. Many consumers in desperate straits want to believe dishonest companies who tell them they have a good one for $2,700 – who can blame them? But the truth is that these high mile diesels just don't have much life left in them, and that they will fail.

Now we will address a late model Toyota Tacoma engine: The 2.7L 2TRFE. This DOHC 16 Valve engine came into use in 2005. While it appears to be a solid engine, some shops report excessive baring wear. This doesn't appear to be a widespread problem, but it again makes the case for getting a vehicle history report on any engine you buy to make sure you're getting a true low mileage Toyota Tacoma engine, should you need a replacement.

About the Author

Whether you need a VW engine or a Toyota Tacoma engine, it is important to investigate any company you're considering dealing with by running a free report with the Better Business Bureau. To do so, simply visit BBB.org and put the web address of the company you're investigating into the website. You only want to deal with BBB members that have an A+ rating.

Problems with 04 Dodge Stratus Oil Light & Idle HELP Please?

have a 04 Stratus 2.4 DOHC Engine. Yesterday when I was driving and stopped at a light the oil light came on. I started driving the oil light went off I was only five minutes from home so when I got in the drive way out the car in park it came back on. I checked the oil the next morning it is full, but left the car at home all day started the light did not come on. Today drove to work the light did not come on all day that day then, today it flickers for a second when im stop but then goes right back out. I have changed the TPS Sensor, the thermostat, the timing belt (regular maintenance), water pump, Oil Sending Unit (about a year ago) Plugs & wires (about a year ago). Sometimes when I come to a stop it idles funny stumbles like it is going to die then kicks right back up. No check engine light has come on, and I get my oil changed like clock work every 3000 miles. Any ideas on what I should check?

A total check at the garage is your best bet..

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