Diesel Chain Tensioner
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Diesel Chain Tensioner
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Assenmacher (ASM6800TDI) TDI Timing Belt Tool Set List Price: $269.40 Sale Price: $178.99 |
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Used for Locking the Camshaft, Crankshaft and Diesel Pump while setting the Timing Belt. Applicable to: 1999-2008 VW TDI and Pumpe Duse Engines Includes Cam Lock Bar Both 2 Pin Spanner Wrenches Included Also Includes Both Styles of Crankshaft Stops Kit for setting and adjusting the cam/crank/pump timing on 1999-2008 VW TDI engines... |
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Timing Belt Kit VW Golf Jetta GL GLS 2.0L 1999-2006 Sale Price: $189.96 |
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Timing Belt Kit Volkswagen Golf GL, GLS 1999-2006 2.0L Gas, (non-turbo) and Jetta GL, GLS 2.0L Gas, (non-turbo) 1999 to 2005. Includes: timing belt, timing belt tensioner, water pump with gasket and updated metal impeller, accessory drive belt, front crankshaft seal, camshaft seal, thermostat, thermostat gasket... |
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Vw Golf Beetle Jetta Audi Tt 1.8l Timing Belt Kit Sale Price: $165.95 |
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AUDI TT 2006 2005 2004 2003 2002 L4 1.8 FI T C AWP 2002 2001 2001 2001 2000 AUDI TT QUATTRO 2006 2005 2004 2003 2002 2002 2002 2001 2001 2001 2001 2000 VOLKSWAGEN BEETLE 2005 2003 2002 2000 1999 VOLKSWAGEN GOLF 2001 2001 L4 1... |
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VW Audi A4/A6/A8/A11 Gas/Diesel Engine Timing Tool Kit Sale Price: $225.99 |
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This new kit of twelve tools is required for gas and diesel engine service including timing belt replacement on recent models and also older 1.9D models from 1976 Audi: A4, A6, A8, A11 yoad (97-04) VW: Passat (98-04) Engines Codes: AFB, AKE, AKN, AYM, BAU, BCZ, BDG, BDH, BFC |
Featured Article :

Here is a typical go kart building scenario:
"The anxious go kart builder was putting the finishing touches on his go kart. He just applied the giant decal that said "monster" on the ground effects graphics on the side of his gocart. He then fired up the engine on the go kart and proceeded to smoke the clutch."
Notice, the scenario here: "smoking the clutch" versus "smoking the tires."
In fact the go kart did not go anywhere and it was very frustrating. The question should be: "Why in the world was the clutch smoking?"
More specifically, when the go kart was being developed and designed, why was this clutch problem not addressed?
The answer lies in the fact that the assumption was made that the drive system was fine, that the clutch size, the chain size, the sprocket sizes were simple things that really didn't need that much attention. After all, a go kart is simple right?
Yes, the concept of a go kart is simple in its conception, but really does require some thought when the weight of the go kart starts to exceed 100 pounds. The standard off the shelf components may not apply to the go kart that is being designed.
The next most common question is "How do I calculate the drive system so that the clutch won't smoke?"
The answer lies in the following variables:
-Weight of the Go Kart (with occupant)
-Engine Drive Gear Size
-Rear Axel Drive Gear Size
-Rear Tire Size
-Angle of Hills Being Climbed
What you will be looking to define from these variables is the chain tension and the clutch loading.
First the clutch loading is figured by determining the rating of the clutch and the expected torque that is required by the go kart, especially when climbing a hill.
A rule of thumb when climbing a 10 degree hill (which is a typical hill) is that you multiply 0.17 times the go kart weight (including the person) and that is the amount of force that is required to get the go kart to go up the hill.
Plug the Force into the following equation and you get the torque required to make the go kart climb the hill. If the engine torque equals this value, then the clutch will slip and you will not be able to climb the hill, but the clutch will smoke.
Tengine = Fg* (Rt*Re)/Rg
Hp = Tengine*.057
Tengine = Torque Engine
Fg = Force Go Kart to Go Up Hill
Rt = Radius Tire
Re = Radius Engine Sprocket
Rg = Radius Rear Drive Sprocket
So if you have a 300 pound go kart, a 10 degree hill, a 12 inch diameter tire, 8 inch diameter rear sprocket and a 1.5 inch sprocket for the engine the following will occur:
Tengine = 300*.17*(6 inches* .75 inches)/(4 inches)
Tengine = 57.3 in-lbs
Hp = 3.27 hp
A word of caution: we might be all ecstatic about the information just calculated, but remember that the 3.27 hp is probably going to be the amount of HP required at 1800 rpm and typically a 5 hp engine for example will be giving off that much power at 1800 rpms.
The thing to keep in mind is that the go kart, even though it has a 5 hp engine may stall at the top of the hill.
So the question is what do we do?
-If you want the go kart to climb hills but cannot afford to change out engines, then make the rear drive sprocket larger.
-If you want the go kart to climb hills and can afford to up HP then increase the hp, but beware, make sure the clutch is rated for the higher hp.
-If you want to climb hills, but not change the ratio, then you need to consider a more complex solution which amounts to a variable speed clutch.
When you start increasing the ratios, you automatically start increasing the chain tension. You will run into issues with that, in that the chain tension may be too high and cause it to fail prematurely.
So the next problem that a go kart will run into is the chain tension is too high for the chain rating.
Using the following equation you can calculate the chain tension and then apply it to the chain ratings charts that chain manufacturers put together.
Chain Tension = Engine Torque/Radius Engine Sprocket.
Visit chain manufacturer sights for chain loading charts and acceptable load data. If you look hard enough there are chain programs available for download. One thing to keep in mind though is that chains are typically rated very high in hours because they are designed to run for years not weeks.
A go kart will only run for weeks at the most. It is not uncommon to replace your chain at least 4 times over the life of the go kart.
So be aware that chain program pro-rate their chains for 15000 hours. Lubrication is a big factor as well to chain life.
So in conclusion:
calculate your theoretical chain tension that is required to get your go kart to go up a hill.
Second: Match the horsepower on your go kart engine with the theoretical value: If the Horsepower required is more than the engine can dish out, you will have trouble
Third: Calculate chain tension and evaluate if the chain will hold up. Use programs, and charts supplied by chain manufacturers for the final decision. Remember chains are pro-rated.
Robert Gamble. The Go Kart Guru is a Go Karting Design, Fabrication and Performance specialist.
For more information on drive train analysis and how to derive the formulas yourself, visit the Go Kart Guru Blog at Torque-Averter Drive Train Calcs: Why Is My Chain Breaking?
Found at http://gokartguru.com/blog/?p=184.
Band Saw Performance Tips
As with all shop tools there are procedures that if followed will extend the life of both your band saw and the cutting blade. Proper tension, feed pressure, regular cleaning, and lubrication are all required to get the most from this tool.
There are certain precautions to be taken in order to protect the blades from premature wearing. For example, when the blades are new, they are too sharp, and any rigorous action on it will cause damage to its teeth. In order to avoid premature wear, manufacturers suggest a break-in action for new saw blades. This can be done by reducing the speed of sawing in the initial period, often to half of the normal speed. Reducing the feed quantity in the beginning, say for the first 50 square inches of the material, will also help to wear off the extra sharpness of the blade and will make it more durable.
Even if you don't know what the normal feed pressure for the material should be, to be safe, start with a light feed, and slowly increase the feed pressure until proper curly chips (in metal) or chip sizes (for wood) are formed. Be aware that there are certain alloys such as ones that are nickel-based which are sawed under lower speeds and so need more break-in pressure.
Lubrication is a must for band saw blades cutting metal. Never use water as a lubricant or a cleaning agent as it will cause rusting and block the smooth functioning of the blades. A suitable lubricant will be a mix of one measure of High Adhesion Chain Saw Bar oil with half measure of kerosene or diesel. Apply the mix on both sides of the blade.
De-tension of the blade is necessary once the sawing is completed and the blades are put to rest. Due to the heat produced during the cutting process, the blade stretches a little, and upon cooling they shrink. Therefore, if the blade is left on the saw with tension, the shrinking will have a negative effect on the blades, sometimes causing a crack in them. Also, this unnecessary tension will de-shape the head of the saw and put pressure on the shafts and the bearings.
The gullet is an important part of the band saw, and while sharpening the saw blade (normally this is done with the help of a stone) you need to take care of the gullet by allowing the stone to move around the bottom of the gullet along with the front and back side of the blades teeth.
Always try to maintain a ratio of no more than 65-70% saw dust and 30-35% of air in the space between the saw blade and the material you are sawing. If you do not maintain this level, you will be blocking the air which otherwise will push the dust out, and the result will be the extra heat generated which will make the saw dust warm and ruin the life of the band saw.
Last but not the least, regular cleaning should be done in order to maintain your band saw in proper condition. The excessive deposit of the waste materials will reduce the lifespan of the saw.
It is also recommended that you choose a high quality blade. Low quality band saw blades are made with inferior tool steel that will dull quickly, as well as have a much higher risk of the blades breaking due a poor weld.
About the Author
Dwayne Goerges
is the web site editor for
R & B Band Saw Blades
and
Bee's Rockery and Landscaping Products
in Northern California
rover 75 bmw diesel cam chain problem?
if the chain tensioner broke would the chain slap a bout when idleing? its ticks over fine just makes a slapping sound,any ideas? cheers
As Gary says this needs looking at asap. As if the chain is loose then the noise will be it damaging something.
Best case scenario, the timing chain guides, the timing cover or the engine block will be worn or cracked by the chain
Worst case, the chain will fail completely and the valves will smash the pistons and you will need a new engine !
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