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Features of a dry suit

A suit to use in cold conditions is a major investment for most divers. You are not just investing in keeping dry but also in keeping warm. To do this it must fit well with seals that are efficient at the neck and wrists.
Dry suits can be split into two main categories:-Neoprene and membrane. The former keeps you warm due to the thickness of the foam although the foam does compress during descent becoming thinner the deeper you go. As it becomes thinner it also becomes less buoyant so air needs to be put into the suit to compensate for this.. A membrane suit is usually made from a trilaminate material and is purely for keeping the water out so an undersuit has to be worn for warmth. As you descend, the air in your suit becomes compressed and seems to shrink -this is known as suit squeeze- so air needs to be put in to maintain neutral buoyancy and also to prevent "squeeze". The air added to the suit warms up by body heat and acts as an extra insulation layer, this effect is reduced the more the suit is compressed

Bear in mind that with a neoprene suit you need to counteract the effect of squeeze AND the material compressing.
There are a couple of types of material that blur the boundaries between membrane and neoprene;- crushed and compressed neoprene. These have the toughness of neoprene but without the tendency for the suit material to alter it's buoyancy during the dive . Usually more expensive than standard neoprene or trilaminate suits.

Seals. These can be made of neoprene or latex rubber. Latex tends to be more watertight but also more fragile while neoprene tends to be robust and warmer on the wrists but often leaves a bit of a damp wrist. If you have sinewy or particularly thin wrists then latex seals are probably your best choice. Latex are usually fitted to membrane suits and neoprene to neoprene though vice versa is possible.

Valves:- You need valves in a dry suit to maintain constant volume and so control your neutral buoyancy.

Inflator valves are usually a simple push button type located at a convenient place on the suit, mid chest being the most popular position. These have a direct feed hose commonly from the diver's main supply cylinder though some divers carry a small cylinder dedicated to suit inflation.

Deflation or dump valves come in two types;- manual and auto. The manual is a simple flap valve and is usually situated on the wrist with a simple raise of the hand to dump. The auto or to give it it's Sunday name the constant volume dump is a spring loaded adjustable valve usually located on the upper arm or shoulder.

Zips. The entry to most dry suits is closed by a waterproof zip commonly across the shoulders but, sometimes diagonally across the chest. The latter allowing you to don the suit and seal it yourself.
A growing feature now in dry suits is a pair of braces. This allows the suit to be a bit longer in the body to allow for movement yet reduces the low hanging crotch so often seen on older style dry suits.
Most dry suit manufacturers will make a made to measure for the same price as an off the peg so make sure your suit fits as this represents a major investment in your diving comfort.
John Hewitt is a Padi and BS-AC instructor, One of the original members of Selby Aquanauts and CEO of Red Hat Diving. His web site is http://www.redhatdiving.com and email is john@divertrainingservices.co.uk

John Hewitt. Padi and Bs-ac instructor. One of the founding members of Selby Aquanauts. CEO of Red Hat Diving who market a range of BCDs and weight systems. e-mail john@divertrainingservices.co.uk web site http://www.johnhewitt.com and http://www.redhatdiving.com

Interference engines....the sleeping time bomb in new cars

Interference Engines

Interference Engines: ........Free Useful information

When buying a used car always insist on determining if the
vehicle has a rubber timing-belt. Be aware that about five years
ago an International Oil Company did a follow up on 5,000 cars
it had turned back after 3 year leases and traced them to their
eventual private owners. All the cars had by then passed through
wholesale auction markets and likely one or more retail dealers
before being sold to a private owner. The survey disclosed that
50% of the cars had their odometers illegally turned back.

When buying a used car, supposedly with 40,000 miles for
example, and determining it has a rubber timing belt, insist on
a written guarantee from the seller to guarantee in writing to
replace the timing belt at no charge if it fails within another
20,000 miles, a typical recommended total amount (Call any
Dealer to get the recommended amount for the particular make of
vehicle). After all, the vehicle may in fact already have 55,000
miles on it. If the seller will not make that guarantee, then he
is admitting that the mileage is probably not accurate and by
implication may well have been turned back. If the seller will
not make that guarantee, consider a compromise, such as $100
maximum cost. If not acceptable, walk away and look elsewhere."

Before buying any car, especially 4-cylinder foreign cars, or
even 6-cyl. BMW, be aware of the unavoidable cost of $400-$800
to replace the timing belt at anywhere from 50,000 to 70,000
miles if the car has an 'interference' type of engine. The sales
person will invariably not mention that an 'interference' type
engine powers the vehicle and may not even know what one is. If
a timing belt on an interference engine is not replaced at
recommended intervals, the repair cost when the belt breaks (not
gradually, but always catastrophically) could increase to $3,000
to $5,000 due to engine failure because parts have smashed into
each other

An 'interference' engine is an engine design that has been
avoided by some manufacturers for well over 80 years. General
Motors, Chrysler, etc., typically use a metal chain-type timing
belt on push-rod engines (often called a timing chain) to
transmit torque from the engine crankshaft o the engine camshaft
that opens the valves that admit air and fuel. (Note: on some
new cars the fuel is admitted not through the valves but through
injectors in the top of the cylinder. Rather than use a steel
timing chain, interference engines may use a rubber timing belt
with its limited life, whereas steel timing belts typically last
150,000 to 200,000 miles or more.

Valves open further in an interference engine and project
further into the combustion chamber than in a 'free-running'
engine. This allows outside air at atmospheric pressure flow
faster into the combustion chamber through the larger valve
opening. The engine can therefore inhale more air, be a little
smaller, and still create as much power while reducing its.
manufactured cost and also guaranteeing future repair business
for its dealer. If a rubber timing belt breaks by not being
replaced soon enough, some of the valves stuck in their open
position will collide with the top of the pistons, thereby
breaking or irreversibly damaging one or the other or both. To
make matters worse, it is not possible to measure the wear on
such a rubber belt so that it could be replaced when there is
some indication of imminent failure. Failure in these belts is
catastrophic, without warning. This will require a whole new
engine be installed. Woe to the owner. Finally, the rubber belt
may have to be replaced long before 60,000 miles solely due to
its age. This is really playing a bad poker hand. Interference
engines are like a time bomb waiting to explode unless replacing
the timing belt at the recommended interval. Be aware of that
guaranteed future expense before buying a new car, or especially
a used car, " with such an engine.

For details on this subject or for recommended mileage to
replace rubber timing belts on interference engines, connect on
the Internet to Gates.com. When its web site appears, click on
Replacement parts/Automotive. Look for 'Timing belt replacement
Guide'.

About the Author

Ralph Hoffmann graduated from the Univ. of Wisconsin, majoring
in Applied Mathematics. He has ten years experience raising
venture capital and added business experience developing real
estate properties. He has used his math background to develop
web site http://www.AutoTruckData.com for anyone intending to
lease or buy a new car.

Any Advice?? 4 cyl engine is pulling suction from exhaust?

My toyota truck engine is running rough. When I open the oil filler cap on the valve cover it launched the cap and is blowing air...alot! So I check the tailpipe and it is surging! I held an envelope up to it and it sucks it in then pushes it away. I am thinking it must be valves???? Thanks for looking.

you have blow by and the combustion pressure is being send into the crank case. You may have a blocked exhaust like a blocked catalytic converter. If you had bad valves than you would hear a popping sound coming from the exhaust if you had bad exhaust valves or a popping sound coming from the intake if your intake valves were bad. Do you have a heavy decrease in power?. does your car use up fuel?. is your car over heating?. if so than your converter is blocked up.

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