Chrome Oil Filler

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Probably the easiest styling mod you can make to your car, and probably the most common. When looking at buying an alloy wheel set you will soon realise there are a large variety of designs, sizes and colours. The general rule is the larger the alloy wheel and the lower the profile of the tyre the sweeter they look on your car. Be careful not to fit too large a wheel and tyre combination as the handling of the car can be affected and they can also rub on the wheel arches. When buying alloy wheels you must be careful to ensure the PCD, Offset and Bore Measurements are within the correct tolerances of the original wheels.

Consider the design for your new alloy wheels, a complicated pattern could make cleaning difficult, also brake dust can cause pitting on rough texture alloy wheels. To avoid this when fitting your new alloy wheels fit low brake dust pads to reduce the problem. Whilst on the subject of brakes, alloy wheels very often show much more of you callipers so it might be worthwhile giving them a touch of calliper paint. If you are going to fit spinners remember they may look great but cleaning them will be interesting.

When you have the tyres fitted ask the fitters to attach the weights for balancing on the inside of the wheel.

Whilst a large proportion of alloy wheels are chrome remember that they can be painted any colour you wish. Dark coloured, matt finish alloy wheels have a sleeper, understated look. When choosing your tyres try and pick one with a wide wall, this will go some way to prevent scratching if the wheels are kerbed whilst parking etc.

Handling can be improved with the fitting of spacers between the wheel and hub, this will help to improve the handling of the car by widening the footprint. Split rim alloy wheels are basically a wheel in two parts fastened together with nuts and bolts, they are generally wider and can fill a wheel arch much better and allow for a wider tyre to be fitted.

Remember that your safety and the safety of other road users comes first and when buying alloy wheels if they are much bigger than the standard fit for your car then the suspension will need to be realigned to ensure good handling.

Author Andrew Whitehead - a self confessed petrol head has owned numerous classic cars from fully restored to basket cases! He now has a website to fuel his passion in all things auto and if you're looking to buy alloy wheels please visit his website for more information at [http://www.onlyautos.co.uk/blog]

How to paint a Body Panel

First you must find a suitable place to perform the work. You will need a place with very good ventilation, minimal dust, good lighting, electricity, and room to work around the vehicle. Residential garages are not usually suitable because size and ventilation

Gather the materials and equipment you will need to do the job

 

                                         Painting equipment (i.e. Spray gun, compressor, regulator and air line with the correct fittings)

                                         Paint and Primer

                                         Sanding and polishing tools and supplies

                                         Safety equipment (i.e. dust masks, Breathing Equipment)

                      

Preparation

• Remove all rust and repair any dents on the body panel that you don't want to see after painting is complete.
• Remove any chrome or plastic trim, which can be taken off easily, and replace later. Much of the body panel moldings used on cars can be snapped off, and snapped back on easily, but if a gentle attempt to remove it is not successful, do not try to force it off, it may be ruined in the process. You can purchase body moulding removal tools
• Once the repairs have been done and the dents are removed sand the whole area with 800 wet or dry or if the remaining area is in good condition the use red or grey scotch brite to key up the area for the paint to adhere to but if you are going to primer the whole area the use 320 wet or dry .
• If you are painting a new Body Panel the all this will require is a light rub down with scotch brite to give the paint something to adhere to.
• Any bare metal Areas should be cleaned with a panel wipe and painted with a self etching primer these are available in aerosol form which are really good for small areas
• Once you have done all these thoroughly clean the body panel with panel wipe to remove all oils and grease.
• 
Use masking tape, paper & static sheeting to cover all surfaces that are not being painted such as glass, window trim, door handles, mirrors, and grills. Make sure that there are no holes in the masking tape and paper that will allow overspray to get through. (Overspray can be very hard to remove so make sure that you mask up very well)
• Once you have done this you are now almost ready to start painting the body panel

 

Painting

• Prime any surface you used body filler or removed rust from using a high build primer and applying enough paint to fill scratches or pits left in the preparation process. (Please read all the data sheets supplied with the products to get the best finish)
• Allow plenty of time for the primer to cure all primer vary so again please read the data sheet supplied
• Once the primer has cured sand the primed areas with 320 wet or dry to remove the rough surface once you have done this go over the area again with 800 wet or dry and remember to feather out any areas that have been repaired to give a smooth flowing finish be careful not to expose the bare metal again.
• Ok you now ready to start with the colour but before you do use a panel wipe and clean the area once the panel wipe has evaporated use a tack cloth and wipe the area to remove all dust before you start paint also wet the floor of the garage so not to disturb any dust that is on the floor.
• Ok now you are ready mix the colour, catalyst and thinner according to the manufactures instructions always remember to wear safety equipment such as an air fed mask, latex gloves and a spray suit.
• If you are using a polyester basecoat or water based paint the you will only need to thin the paint and will not require any catalyst
• Before you start and painting use a spray out card and so a spray out of the colour to make sure it is correct as your paint supplier will not take any responsibility for rectifying it if the colour is wrong
• The first coat should be applied as a light even dust coat on the body panel that you are painting this is known as a gripper coat as it gives the second coat something to hang on to. (If you are using a basecoat or water based basecoat the colour will go matt or satin once it dries don't worry the clear coat will resolve this when that is applied)
• After 8 – 10 minutes the second coat can be applied, apply a wet coat so that it covers the area but be carful as putting on too much will allow it to run
• After a further 8 – 10 minutes you can apply the third and final coat, treat coat this as before.
• If you are using base and clear the leave the paint to cure this should take no longer than about 20 minutes once the basecoat has cured use a tack cloth and wipe the area over again you can now start to apply the clear coat (remember to read the data sheet and stick to the mixing ratios) using the same technique as you did when applying the basecoat
• Once the clear coat has cured this should normally take 24 hours you should be able to sand out any imperfection with 1500 -2000 wet or dry once the imperfection has been removed use a good compound and polish the area if needed to bring the gloss back to the body panel (this can be done by hand or with a machine but be carful as it is very easy to go through the paint when using a machine)

 

About the Author

Steve Fairbrass is owner for www.auto-paints4u.co.uk , the largest online body panels and paint supplier.

Chevy oil filler cap?

i have an 85 chevy el camino and i found a chrome oil filler cap, but my original has a seal and the oil filler doesnt would that loose compression or is it all good, i know that the filler cap is suppose to be like that

There is no compression under the valve cover - that is all in the combustion chamber. The only thing the cap would do without a seal is leak oil all over your engine and then onto the exhaust manifold, creating a fire hazard.

A Warm Front in the Bathroom?
While chrome and satin nickel continue to be the finishes of choice in plumbing and hardware, some recent product introductions indicate a warming trend is afoot in the bathroom.

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