Chevy Oil Pump

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If you own a Rover P5B V8 model like me, you probably love the car but could do with more power. The original engine in the P5B is of the 3500cc variety. The good thing when it was first launched was it had a higher compression ratio than some of the later engines, but because the heads had smaller inlet and outlet valves it still limited the power some what. The other disadvantage was the problem of leaded fuel not being available so you have to keep adding lead additives to the fuel which many a P5 owner knows is a bit of a pain as you are always down the fuel station with such a big motor.

My first trick was to replace the heads with heads from the Rover SD1 which with the bigger valves and unleaded valve stems saved me the job of putting in the fuel additive each time but I didn't really notice much extra power. The Rover P5B is a very heavy car anyway and I suppose your not supposed to drive it fast but I was hoping for a little change in performance. I then added a Weber Carburetter and changed the ignition to a Lumenition electronic ignition system to get rid of the old points system. This made a bit of a difference but the performance was not what I would call startling.

Then I decided to dig deep into my pockets, rob the piggy bank and opt for fitting the 4.6 ltr engine from the later Range rovers. Now this engine is really the same original block as the 3.5 ltr from the Rover P5, so actually it is nearly a straight swap. If you are keeping the original distributor from the P5 then you have to keep the same front cover from the engine because the oil pump teeth are different for each model. Apart from that everything goes in nicely. The engine mounts line up and all the exhaust manifolds go back together just as the old one. If you trying to keep your Rover looking original, you can even use the original rocker covers so even the insurance man couldn't tell the difference. Until he drove it of course.

How does it drive? Well, between the two engines is like between day and night. You will be grinning from ear to ear for days afterwards. So if you have a few spare bob and need your Rover P5 to pick up its heels and go. Your only option has to be the 4.6Ltr V8.

Hi I'm Tony and thanks for reading my article. I am a property investor and driving instructor by trade but please take a look at my new website on Cars for sale at http://www.carsforsaleuk.eu/.

The Demise of the American Muscle Car

It happened back in the 70's, but the evidence was still there. It was the case of the disappearing horsepower and this is what happened.

In the era of the muscle car power was everything. It didn't matter what it was, sports car, family car, pickup; it had the biggest V-8 possible stuffed under the hood. Cubic inches were king and advertised power was astronomical. These cars could kick sand in the windscreens of anything else on the road.

But then horsepower seemed to disappear overnight!

Take my favourite muscle car, the Ford Mustang. The macho models had V-8s, though meeker models came with an inline six. The biggest six had 200 cubic inches and 155 hp in 1969/70.

What did the V-8s punch out? The most powerful 351 gave 300 hp in 1970 and the 427 gave a massive 390 hp in 1968. But by 1973 the most powerful Mustang had a 351 V-8 with just 156 hp. Almost half what it had in 1970, and only one horsepower more than the 200 cu in six of 1970!  As for the Mustang II of 1974, we won't even go there.

The story was similar with the other manufacturers. What was going on? It just didn't add up. Could I trust the figures?

My detective mentor, Agatha Christie, taught me that when you're solving a case you can't trust anyone. Murderers do lie.  In this case it wasn't murder though it was the death of the muscle car, and it wasn't so much of an outright lie as not telling the whole truth. And outside forces were at play.

I had to dig deeper. I had to find the facts. Why would horsepower virtually halve?

It turned out there were a few reasons. Salesmanship was one.  Horsepower was everything so why not measure it in a salesman friendly way? Gross SAE horsepower was used. Power was measured at the flywheel with no power-hungry accessories attached. Only the bare essentials were used.

In 1972 SAE Net measurements were phased in. Power was still measured at the flywheel but all the accessories were installed including the full exhaust system, emission controls, all pumps and the alternator. SAE Net can't be compared exactly to SAE Gross because there are just too many variations in measuring, but it is down around 80%. So power ratings dropped. In 1973 horsepower ratings went down again as power sapping emission controls were tightened.

Gross SAE horsepower had pushed the listed power up.  So did the advertised horsepower some car companies used. What's wrong with a little rounding up of the numbers for the brochure? Surely that would help sales too.

All this horsepower galloping around got noticed and not just by young guys.

Safety legislators noticed, and so did insurance companies who started charging more for insurance. The word on the street is that in 1967 a young guy under 25 with a clean driving record would have paid $700 a year for GTO coverage. Ouch! Some car companies lowered their advertised horsepower ratings.

Muscles peaked in 1970, and by 1971 they were starting to get flabbier. Engines were being detuned and within another year bigger engines were being dropped.

In 1973 many muscle cars were a shadow of their former selves. And they were finished off by the oil crisis of late '73. Long lines at gas stations and soaring prices were a real shock, and so was a 55 mph national speed limit. Gas guzzlers were irresponsible, expensive and unwanted, it didn't matter how much fun they were.

So there you have it. I now know what happened to all that brute power. Some exaggeration had pushed listed horsepower up. A fairer, more accurate measuring system brought it down. Emission controls brought it down more, and soaring insurance costs made ground-thumping power too expensive to own. The oil crisis finished the muscle car off.  This case was solved.

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how to prime a oil pump on a chevy motor?

I bought a rebuilt engine and i want to get oil to the valves before starting it what should i do

There are oil pump primer shafts that you can buy to drive the pump with a drill motor stuck down the distributor drive shaft hole. I don't know if that would be something that a parts store would have as a loaner tool or not. You might check, or you might fashion one by looking at the distributor drive shaft. Here is a site describing the procedure, but don't know if it describes the drill attachment. http://www.customclassictrucks.com/howto/chevy_engine_rebuild/index.html Good Luck

Another site: http://www.ehow.com/how_6157960_prime-chevy-motor-oil-pump.html

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