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Without a doubt the single biggest barrier to high performance tuning is detonation. Also known as knocking, pre-ignition, pinking or pinging, these are all words describing a very serious engine condition. Detonation describes a situation where there is a sudden and uncontrolled increase in combustion pressure inside the cylinder and can take the form of:

- The fuel/air mixture being lit-off too early in the engine cycle by over advanced ignition timing.

- Fuel with too low an octane rating causes spontaneous ignition of the fuel/air charge before the spark plug would normally initiate the combustion process.

- Excessive charge temperature and pressure causes a spontaneous ignition of the fuel/air charge before the spark plug would normally initiate the combustion process.

- Once the spark plug ignites the fuel air charge and begins to burn, a second unplanned ignition of the fuel/air charge occurs simultaneously in another area of the combustion chamber.

The first two types of detonation are easily fixed by adjusting engine mapping and by better quality fuel respectively. The last two are a tougher nut to crack, and ultimately far more dangerous to engine health. Whenever two competing flame fronts in the combustion chamber form, the point at which they collide causes a massive localised increase in combustion pressure. This produces both the rattling noise and mechanical damage associated with detonation. This localised pressure increase acts like a jackhammer producing not only huge shock loadings, but also a massive increase in heat focused in a localized area.

Pistons and piston rings bear the brunt of detonation, but damage is not always confined to just these parts, as the constant hammering of detonation can result in; erosion of material from the combustion chamber around the valve seats, fatigue failure of connecting rods, blown headgaskets and damaged connecting rod bearings. If you haven't already worked it out, detonation must be avoided at all costs!

Detonation can be controlled by the following means:

- Efficient cylinder head, combustion chamber design and a corresponding static compression ratio;

- Sophisticated engine control electronics and matching fuel + ignition calibration;

- Sensible boost pressures;

- Controlling intake charge temperatures;

- Higher octane fuel, offering better resistance to detonation.

Subaru has done a good job designing an engine with a suitable compression ratio and base mechanical spec along with a highly advanced electronic management system. Unless considering major engine surgery (out of reach for most Subaru WRX owners), this leaves fuel quality, intake charge temp, boost pressure and engine management calibration as the easily attainable methods for keeping a lid on detonation. Juggling these changeable parameters, and translating it into a safe and powerful engine tune is the sign of a really good engine tuner. Again, does this sound like your guy?

Despite all the evidence to the contrary, some very curious attitudes towards detonation still persist. The following points on detonation are the real deal. Anything else falls into the category of old wives tales.

Brett Middleton has over 10 years experience working on Subaru performance cars and has transcribed all his knowledge into the Subaru Performance Handbook. His company, MRT Performance has modified and serviced more Subaru's in Australia than any other workshop.

There is no other Subaru book like it! Get a valuable insight into Subaru models from just about any country.

Bonus chapters plus tons of free audio and video to help you get the best possible performance from your Subaru: Visit Our Site At http://www.SubaruPerformanceHandbook.com

How To Create A Cool Rat Rod, Simple And Easy

Now, be sure that you don't confuse them with Hot Rods, which are generally classic hot rods that are pretty and shiny lots of chrome. And don't confuse them with Muscle Cars. You know, camaros, gtos, corvettes, etc, you get the picture.

Rat Rods are your old, rust bucket looking car. It can be very primitive, looking like your typical jalopy. Rat Rods are all custom, built to the owners taste. Some say the more of a rust bucket,  the better. Others like flat black paint, large whitewalls and red wheels, with zero chrome. As long as its not shiny, its in the Rat Rod class.

No one can truly tell you how to build it, but we can give you some ideas.  You can turn any car into a Rat Rod, but do it with taste. I wouldn't go out into your garage and spray flat black paint on your Lexus, if you know what I mean. Some of the more popular vehicles are 20s, through 50's vehicles. Fords and Chevys are more popular, but dare to be different. Make a statement and build a Hudson or a Metropolitan.

I've read many blogs on "How to build a Rat Rod" and have wondered if any of them have any truth over others. The truth is in fact that many beginners as well as seasoned veterans build these cars and the only "rule" should be, how cool can you make it.

Come visit us at http://www.ratrodauthority.com.com for ideas, parts, vehicles and anything to do with Rat Rods, Muscle Cars, and Hot Rods.

About the Author

Hi. My name is Art Tupaczewski and I am the founder of The Rat Rod Authority. After being involved with cars, motorcycles, etc for over 20 years, i am devoting my time to what my passion really is at, and thats Rat Rods. I currently own an auto body shop, but I see my future with cool builds, not just collision repairs

Chevy 1 ton van transmission Q.?

1984, has been sitting for 5 years. It seems the cotter pins that connect the transmission (rotating bar, I don't know what it is called) that con nects to the rear gearbox, visable from exterior...have been sheered, yet is still connected! I have not yet turned over the motor (as I am changing out fluids). It does not seem like the part is completely fractured, does anyone know if this is a fairly easily repairable procedure or will I have to change out the entire "linking rod"? I was given this workvan and the budget is only $500 to get it running, I have already sunk $122. Thanks for ideas...no smarty pants answers...I know it is junk, just seeing if I can reset the pins myself without towing it to a garage.

I think ? you are talking about the driveshaft......from the factory the " U " or Universal joints were kept in place with plastic ( melted then hardened ) if it's ( U Joint ) been replaced it will have " keepers" holding the joint cups in place. They look kinda like a " C Clip" and are springey. Hope I helped and good luck.

New chapters for some names you know
There were some amazing stories in Star Magazine this year that made us want to know more. In the age of constant status updates and ever-changing profile information, no story really has an end, but several have new chapters that we wanted to share today. Look for more new chapters every day this week, in The Star’s FYI and Preview sections.

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