Chevy Cam Bearings

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Nobody should have to put a gun to your head to get you to change your oil filter, yet it's amazing how many guys will let it go, gradually destroying the performance and integrity of their engine each time they fire up the ignition.

An oil filter, like the Silverado oil filter, Tundra oil filter or Chevy Suburban filter, is the engine's primary defense against abrasion, and the resulting wear and tear that occurs when dirty oil is allowed to pass through the engine. Stock filters can do the job, but, as with anything, performance parts can do it better.

Performance-grade filters, like those produced by K&N, remove solid contaminants including dirt, carbon and metal particles from the oil before they can damage bearing, journal and cylinder wall surfaces within the engine. It would seem obvious but: the cleaner the filter, the more effective it is at trapping these contaminants.

Commonly known as "full-flow" filtration, today's vehicles utilize a system in which the oil is routed through the filter before it goes to the crankshaft bearings, cam bearings and valve train. It's by far the most efficient way of removing contaminants while assuring only filtered oil is allowed to pass into the engine. As the filter begins to wear, it gathers dirt and debris, similar to an air filter. As the crud collects and continues to build up, it obstructs the flow of oil and can eventually lead to some serious problems due to the loss of lubrication-most notably, the big EF (engine failure).

To maintain performance and prevent catastrophic damage from occurring to your engine, the filter should be changed before it reaches this point (or anywhere near it). Remember: even if your engine doesn't fail, a clogged filter is still eroding your engine performance which has a direct impact on your fuel efficiency. By not chancing your filter regularly, you're literally costing yourself more at the pump each time you fill up!

So how often is often enough? Well, many auto manufacturers will tell you the filter only needs to be replaced once every other oil change. However, in modern vehicles that isn't sufficient. Today's filters have been downsized to save weight, cost and space. What was once a quart-sized filter has been replaced by a pint-sized filter (a pint is smaller than a quart, for those of you not familiar with the weird way Europeans measure out their wine). This reduction in size provides less filtering capacity. Nevertheless, these smaller filters should easily stand up to about 3,000 miles, but they won't make it past the 6,000 mile mark. Replacing the filter every time the oil is changed will ensure you maintain the highest possible engine integrity and fuel economy.

A good oil filter keeps you in the game and off the sidelines. More than making up for their cost with what they'll save you at the pump, performance-grade oil filters, like the Silverado oil filter, Dodge Ram oil filter or Tundra oil filter last longer and provide better fuel efficiency in the process.

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chevy 350 engine rebuild?

okay, i got a 78 chevy with a 350 engine. My question is, I know how to work on an engine etc. But Im wanting to do an entire rebuild. I basically want to know like what parts to replace for it to be called an entire engine rebuild? Like bearings new cam? Or what as much info as possible would be nice.

first start by pulling the engine and mounting it on a stand. Drain the oil and remove the pan. then turn it over and remove the carb and the valve covers, and the rockers, then the push rods, then the intake, and distributor. Then remove the head bolts and remove the heads. feel around the top of each piston to see how much of a ring grove you have. turn the engine over again and remove the rod cap bolts, on one cylinder at a time take a dead blow hammer and tap on the rod studs but do not let them scratch the crank. this will drive the pistons out the cylinders. then remove the main caps and timing chain and gears and you can remove the crankshaft and cam shaft. then take the crank and cam and pistons and block to the machine shop they will be able to mic. the cylinders and crank to see how much under they need to go on the boring and cleaning the crank. have them boil the block and install new cam bearings for the cam you chose and they can tell you if you need to replace the pistons, you will need to replace the main and rod bearings, the timing chain and the freeze plugs in the block. the machine shop can tell you all the sizes they needed to straighten everything out. then start to resemble the engine using allot of assembly lube.

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