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If you own an aging vehicle, an upcoming emissions inspection can be a dreadful thought. But there are many ways to prepare yourself & your vehicle to dramatically improve your chances to ace that inspection. Above & beyond this, pollutive emissions are becoming a greater problem for us every day, so anything we can do to reduce our impact on the environment is doing a great service to humanity & the earth.

Please note that if your vehicle has serious mechanical problems, nothing short of the required labour by a licensed mechanic will correct your issue.

1. Filters

a) Oil & Oil Filter - The purpose for your oil filter is to remove excess waste from the oil which passes through the engine system, such as metal particulates, dirt, & carbon. If your oil filter is clogged with debris, then the dirty oil will pass through the engine without being cleaned. This will accelerate the wear & tear on your engine, causing your combustion to be less efficient & emissions to rise.

b) Air Filter - If you wish your engine to perform at optimum capacity, a clean air filter is crucial. The air filter screens out dust & debris from entering your engine system. Depending on the conditions you drive under, your filter will need to be replaced more frequently. Highway drivers' filters will last longer than city drivers dealing with construction mixing debris into the air, for example. With a dirty filter, your fuel combustion will deteriorate & your emissions will increase progressively until you replace it. The air filter should be replaced before it causes a pronounced restriction in airflow to the engine.

c) Fuel Filter - An aging vehicle's fuel tank can develop rust & debris over time, due to a number of factors. Fuel is usually filtered, but not always. Debris can enter your tank whenever you add fuel. Water & debris can also get into the fuel from underground leakage, which will accelerate the growth of rust, caused by moisture & condensation.

2. Spark Plugs

One of the principle causes of emissions test failure is incomplete fuel combustion, and spark plugs are crucial to burning fuel cleanly. If you have felt any rough spots in your engine, it is a good idea to have them inspected before you test your emissions.

3. Fuel Cap

It is a good idea to inspect your fuel filler neck, where the fuel cap seals onto it. Moisture can cause rust to develop here, causing an imperfect seal. This rust can be dealt with easily using steel wool. Closely inspect the rubber ring on the cap looking for any imperfections. If this is the case, you might not pass the emissions inspection. Replace your fuel cap if the ring is cracked.

4. Premium Fuel

The additional cost of using premium fuel will be offset by combusting more cleanly with less environmental impact. Fill up your fuel tank with gasoline that contains 10% ethanol alcohol, which is an effective octane booster.

5. Fuel Combustion Technology

In addition to the above, fuel combustion technology in the form of fuel additives can assist in combusting your fuel more completely, resulting in lowered emissions & less maintenance on your vehicle. Take care when choosing an additive formula, as chemical additives can leave harmful particulates in your system, working against the benefit you gain. Ensure the additive is non-toxic & made with all natural, biodegradable ingredients. These natural additives contain bound oxygen which, combined with lubricants which clean atomisers & nozzles, allows for complete combustion with more power to your engine.

For 100% natural & biodegradable fuel combustion additives, please visit http://www.optimumearth.com/fuel/

Join thousands of others who are already experiencing savings & drastically reducing their emissions today!

Visit Optimum Fuel

How to R&R Engine in a 1994 Honda Civic L4-1493cc 1.5L SOHC

Mark all wiring and hoses for installation reference. Also, be sure they do not contact other wiring or hoses or interfere with other parts .

On models equipped with radio coded theft protection system, refer to Vehicle Damage Warnings for system disarming and arming procedures. On models equipped with airbag system, refer to Technician Safety Information for system disarming and arming procedures.
Disconnect battery ground cable, then the positive cable.
Remove radiator cap, then raise and support vehicle.
Remove front tires and wheels, then the engine splash shield.
Drain coolant, transaxle fluid and engine oil. Reinstall drain plugs using new washers.Do not overtighten drain plugs .

Lower vehicle, then open hood as far as possible and secure.
Remove underhood ABS fuse/relay box.
Remove air intake hose, resonator and air cleaner assembly.
Relieve fuel pressure as described under Technician Safety Information .
Disconnect fuel feed hose and charcoal canister hose from intake manifold.
Remove throttle cable by loosening locknut, then slip cable end out of throttle linkage.
Disconnect engine electrical harness connectors on left side of engine compartment.
Disconnect fuel return hose and brake booster vacuum hose.
Disconnect engine electrical harness connectors and clamps on right side of engine compartment.

Disconnect battery and starter cables from underhood fuse/relay box, then remove ABS power cable from battery terminal.
Disconnect engine ground cable on cylinder head, then remove power steering belt and pump. Do not disconnect power steering hoses.
Remove A/C belt and compressor. Do not disconnect A/C hoses.
Remove transaxle ground cable and ATF cooler lines on automatic transaxles.
Disconnect radiator and heater hoses from engine.
Raise and support vehicle, then remove exhaust pipe and stay.
On models with automatic transaxle , disconnect shift control cable at transaxle.
On models with manual transaxle , remove clutch slave cylinder, then disconnect pipe/hose assembly. Do not disconnect clutch hose assembly .
Disconnect shift rod and extension rod.

Remove damper fork, then disconnect suspension lower arm ball joint.
Remove driveshafts, then lower vehicle. Tie plastic bags over driveshaft ends for protection.
Attach suitable engine lifting equipment, then raise engine slightly to remove load on engine mounts.
Remove front engine mounts and brackets, then the rear engine mounting brackets.
Perform the following:
Remove cruise control actuator.
Remove support nuts and bolt, then the mount bolt.
Remove side engine mount.
Remove transaxle mount nuts, then loosen mount bolt and pivot transaxle side mount out of the way.

Ensure engine is free of hoses and electrical connectors, then remove engine from vehicle.
Engine Mount Tightening Sequence 

Reverse procedure to install, noting the following:

When installing driveshafts, use new spring clips and ensure driveshafts click into groove in differential.
After refilling cooling system, bleed air from cooling system at bleed bolt with heater valve open.
Adjust all control cables as required.
On models equipped with radio coded theft protection system, refer to Vehicle Damage Warnings for system disarming and arming procedures. On models equipped with airbag system, refer to Technician Safety Information for system disarming and arming procedures.

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Is it really worth the money and effort to install a LOUD muffler on a Honda Civic? WHY SHOUT MEDIOCRITY?

Is another 5-15 hp really going to make a difference? eg. IF I TYPE IN ALL CAPS, DOESN'T IT LOOK STUPID? Well, now you hear what I hear when I see a Civic driving by with a tail pipe as big as it's wheels!

hmmm I had alot to say like this guy must be piss off because he was with his girlfriend a kid with a loud muffler past him at a red light race when he ended up at the 2nd redlight his girlfriend jump out his car and went with the car makeing there own muffler sounds....then i was why waste my time so here I go

thats what she said

Obama supporter angered over rude gesture
The victim said the harassment began a year ago while he still had an Obama campaign sign in his yard. The Obama supporter said a man, who he identified by name and address, would routinely drive by and “flip him a bird” as he passed.

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