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So you want to buy an old Corvette to restore, well hopefully this is not your first attempt at restoring a car, Corvette's a just a bit different then most cars, being as how they are made of fiberglass, but don't get the idea that Corvette's can't rust, they still have plenty of steel in them also, Corvette's are one of my favorite cars ever built, and I have done a lot of studying on them, I have never owned one yet, because the one that I'd like to buy, I can't exactly afford just yet, but hopefully I can help you in your endeavor to restore a Corvette.

If you are looking to buy a Corvette to restore, I'll give you a few pointers on what to look for here, the first thing you have got to think about, is how much money are you willing to spend to buy and restore your Corvette, you've go to remember that a Corvette is different then all other classic American muscle cars, a piece of crap could cost you $30,000 dollars to start with, this is of course depending on what Corvette your looking for, let's just say that your looking for a 1967 L88 Corvette, which by the way is the car I want to get.

I've seen an L88 427 engine for sale on ebay, and in its second day of seven days of bidding, it was already at $15,000, this has got to tell you something, this is just the engine for the L88 Corvette, not the entire car, and it's worth every penny of what they sell it for too, a Corvette can be a costly adventure, so be ready to spend your cash on that wonderful beautiful piece of American motoring history, it's worth every last cent that you spend on it, there is nothing like the feeling of getting in your big block Corvette and firing it up for a drive, my friend owned a 1968 L88 Corvette, and I got to drive it, which I'll never forget.

Now I will expound on a few things to check before you buy that classic Corvette, these will be some reasons to get a better price on the car.

Check the numbers

Check the Body id tag, the engine casting number and engine RPO number, also be sure to check the title of the car and make sure that it matches what the number tell you, check name, address, phone number of past owner on the title.
Body work

A. Make sure that everything look square.

B. Check nose alignment, door gaps, hood gaps, check how the headlight open and close

Wheel well height:

A. Check from right.

B. Check front left.

C. Check right rear.

D. Check left rear.

Body Surface:

A. Check for ripples in the body work.

B. Check for visible seems.

C. Sinking beneath the paint.

Paint Work:

A. Original Color.

B. Over spray.

C. Paint surface problems.

D. Color Match.

Check The Gaps:

A. Front Bumper.

B. Hood.

C. Doors.

D. T-Top / Deck lid.

E. Rear Bumper.
Steel Work

A. Undercoat.

B. Surface Rust.

C. Flaking Rust.

D. Patch Repairs.

E. Check windshield posts.
Under Hood & Engine

A. Condition of painted surfaces.

B. Condition of chrome.

Check for originality:

A. Exhaust.

B. Carburetor.

C. Intake Manifold.

D. Air Cleaner.

E. Check wiring harness.

F. Check the belts.

Check for maintenance:

A. Coolant Level.

B. Engine Oil.

C. Hydraulic Fluid.

D. Transmission Fluid.

E. Power Steering Fluid.
Check Engine For Condition

A. Engine exhaust smoke when revved.

B. Examine inside of oil filler cap, look for an off whit residue, it indicates water in the oil.

C. Examine coolant for oil in the water, indicates cracked heads or block.

D. Check radiator for leaks.

Check Engine For Leaks.

A. Check the valve covers.

B. Check around the distributor.

C. Check the front and back of the intake manifold.

D. Check the oil pan for leaks.

E. Check just in front of the transmission for oil leaks, indicates a bad rear main seal.

These are a few things to check on a Corvette before you buy it.

I've been in the automotive business for about 20 or 25 years, I have worked in all facets of the industry, from parts to restoration, all different makes and models, I just want to keep people interested in the old cars because it's where my heart is.

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Car Engine Tune Up and Maintenance That You Can Do by Yourself

Treating your car to both regular and major tune ups will certainly improve its performance, prolong the life of its engine and dramatically increase fuel efficiency. With today's constantly increasing fuel prices, it pays to keep your engine in top condition to minimize gas consumption. Major engine tune ups can be pretty expensive when done by the dealer. It will be more practical to get to know a mechanic who owns a garage to ensure you won't get ripped off. Or you can perform a do it yourself tune up and maintenance of your car's engine. Here are some basic tips. Ignition and electrical systems Inspect your car battery levels four times a year at the very least, at each season change. Top off low levels with distilled water. Remove corrosion from cable clamps and terminals by using a wire brush and a little baking soda. This practice will extend battery life. Spark plugs should be replaced every 35,000 miles, or if they're platinum, replacements are required every 65,000 miles. Check the spark plug for cracks and corrosion and change them if damaged. Get high quality cables for added durability and reliable performance. Get a new distributor cap with each major tune up, if the cap is not attached permanently to the spark plug cables. Also replace the rotor of your distributor, if it has one, as some new model cars don't have either a distributor cap or a rotor. If your car is a 1978 model or older, replace the contact points and condenser. Newer car models have electronic ignitions and don't require condensers or contact points. Contact points should be aligned or replaced two times a year. Oil and fuel systems Unless your car has hydraulic valves, adjustment of valve covers is a necessity. While you're at it, also replace the valve cover gasket. If done properly, this will prevent oil from leaking out on top of the car engine. Inspect the timing belt and readjust or replace it if needed. Electronic ignition-equipped cars don't often come with timing belts, while some do, so you have to be certain. Inspect the fan belt and other belts. If they are cracked, frazzled or worn out, consider replacing them at once. If your car has a fuel injector, you don't need to clean it regularly. Clean it only if it gets clogged and use only clean fuel bought at a gas station. The fuel filter needs to be changed every 35,000 miles. The air filter has to be replaced every 15,000 miles, or if it is already covered with dirt. Keeping your air filter clean ensures a more efficient fuel burn, thus minimizing gas consumption. Brakes and clutch If your car has a manual transmission, the clutch will require certain adjustments. Newer model cars are now equipped with adjustable clutch. Consult you manufacturer's manual to be certain. Oil, brake and transmission fluids should have their levels checked every week, or before and after long drives. Have an oil change and oil filter replacement every 3,000 miles as having clean engine oil prolongs the engine's life. You can do your own tune ups to increase fuel efficiency, gain better engine performance and offer a smoother ride. This is not an assurance that you won't run into any car troubles, but do it yourself car tune ups will save you a lot of money in maintenance and repairs.

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1988 Jeep 2.5l leaking oil out of oil fill cap in valve cover?

I have a 1988 2.5l jeep, and oil keeps leaking from the oil fill cap. I have installed a new cap, and it still leaks past. I have changed the PVC valve, and cleaned out the vent at the rear of the cover, and still oil leaks past. I have read that there are baffles in the valve cover that should be checked, however I'm not sure what to look for to see if they are there, and correctly installed.

It sounds like you have an internal engine problem. The only times I know of that would cause that are bad valve seals or excessive ring blow by causing internal engine pressure. Most times changing the PVC, under normal engine conditions, should help but you've already tried that. It's true there might be a baffle but your cover may not have one. Check for leaks around the other engine gaskets (oil pan, timing cover) to see if oil is being forced out there too. Check the sealing area for the cap also for distortion. Sorry, that's all I got. Good luck.

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