Cap Dipstick Tube

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Cap Dipstick Tube
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On 4 stroke outboard engines, other than checking your oil level at regular intervals, changing the oil is the next most important task. Regular oil changes will prolong the outboards life. You can do this task yourself without too much trouble. Just remember to think in a methodical manner and have everything at hand before starting. Here are the steps you need to take to change your outboard motor's oil.

1. Always follow the outboard manufacturers recommended maintenance schedule. For example, for small outboards the oil would normally be changed every 50 hours. For large horse power outboard engines this may be every 100 hours. If you do not use the outboard very much and do not keep a record of the number of hours that it is in use, then always change the oil every year.

2. Gather around you a number of useful tools. A large screwdriver, adjustable spanner, a socket set with a box spanner, an oil filter wrench, a funnel, a bucket or some kind of container to hold the old oil, the new oil, perhaps an oil filter to replace the oil one, WD40 or similar, grease tin, a plastic bag, and some old rags.

3. Have the outboards manual by your side. Check to see how much oil the outboard takes and obviously the grade of oil. When an outboard motor is new the manufacturers like you to use a certain brand of oil, but this is not so important with older engines. As long as it is the same grade and of good quality, it will do the job just as well.

4. Before changing the oil, run the engine until it is warm. Why? Well warm oil will flow easier than cold oil! You will need to put the outboard in some water before starting or you could use engine muffs designed to allow fresh water to flow through the motor as it runs. Sometimes these muffs are called flushing devices. If you connect the system to your garden hose just make sure the tap is not fully on, adjust the flow accordingly.

5. Once the engine is warm. Take out the oil dipstick or the oil cap and put them to one side. This will help drain the oil. Unscrew the drain plug either with a spanner or screwdriver, depending on the engine. Put it to one side (in a safe place). Remember to catch all the old oil in the bucket or container.

6. Some outboard engines have an oil filter, if so, then remove this also by having a plastic bag to hold it in and put to one side. Next screw in the new filter a few turns, then using the rags clean the base (filter seat) and using some grease smear some around where the filter is going to rest in. Continue to screw the new filter in by hand until tight, then tighten an extra half turn. If your engine does not have a replacement oil filter, perhaps it is connected to the drain plug, then clean it with some petrol to remove any trace of the old oil.

7. With the drain plug firmly back in place you are ready to fill with the new oil. Use a funnel in the filler hole to avoid spillages. Fill with oil until it reaches the maximum level on the dipstick. Then replace the oil cap or dipstick.

8. Start the outboard motor and run it at idle speed for 3 minutes. This is long enough to allow all the new oil to get to every part of the engine it should reach. Check the oil pressure warning light goes off and that there are no leaks around the filter or drain plug.

9. Stop the outboard motor. Leave it for 3 minutes to allow all the oil to return to the sump. Then remove the dipstick to check the level. Top up with oil if it is necessary.

10. Finally, dispose of your old oil in accordance with your local laws. Some areas have a local dump that you can take your old oil to and they will take care of it for you.

This procedure can be messy but it is necessary. It is quite within most boaters capability to do without sending the outboard to a dealer or mechanic.

If you would like more information on outboards why not visit my blog at - http://www.sailorpower.co.uk.

Ian McCulloch has been sailing and boating almost all of his life. For the past 35 years he has been building boats of all types. At present he builds fibreglass dinghies. Ian has several websites, one which concentrates on outboard motors - http://www.sailorpower.co.uk
For more information on outboard motors why not visit his website.

How To Change Engine Oil

Changing your engine oil is one of those easy little car maintenance projects that you can do yourself, without getting any help.

When checking the oil. Make sure you haven't driven the car in the last hour. The car needs to be cool for your safety. Make sure that the car is on a level surface so that the oil sits levelly, and open the bonnet.  Prop it up on the latch so that its safe and secure for the job in hand.

Locate the dip stick, which is the long piece of metal sticking out of the engine. It is normally labelled ‘oil'. Remove it, and wipe it on an old rag so it is completely clean. Replace it into the engine, ands make sure that it as gone all the way back in. Pull the dipstick out again, but be careful to make sure that you don't touch the sides of the tube it's housed in as you do so. There should be two lines on the stick, one marked ‘min' and the other marked ‘max'. The oil level should sit somewhere between the two. If it is low, then add a little more oil to your car. Remember to put the dip stick back.

To add more oil, remove the filler cap. This sits on top of the engine and is normally red, yellow or black. Place a funnel in, and pour a little oil in at a time, as it's very easy to misjudge and put too much in.

When you are satisfied that you have done this all properly, make sure that all the caps are back where you found them.

By doing this process yourself, you should save yourself money. You may also be able to save some pennies by buying going online for your Car Insurance Cheap policies are readily available and could save you a fortune!

About the Author

Laura Hartson is a freelance writer who travels the world to bring you up to date articles on great location, hot new things to watch out for and interesting news stories. In her spare time she likes nothing better than reading a good book, and feeling the sand between her toes in exotic locations.

clean under the hood?

what needs to be covered?
alternator
distributor cap/coil assembly
air filter
oil filter cap
fuse box
dipstick tubes
sound about right?
if not please add to the list
1992 saab 9000t

Everything under the hood is water resistant - it has to be to survive driving down the road in a heavy downpour at 70 mph. Alternators, ignition systems, and the like will get wet and must still work splashing around on the highway.

What is not good is using any high pressure sprays - much over standard water pressure from a garden hose will penetrate the electrical connections and short out a lot of circuits. It takes a few days and some work to get them dried out after that.

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