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Checkout Ebay Auctions For The Cheapest Prices
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 CompCams small block Chevy Camshaft  US $150.00
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 Bullet small block Chevy Camshaft US $150.00
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 CompCams small block Chevy Camshaft US $150.00
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 COMP SBC SMALL BLOCK CHEVY 262-400 MUTHA THUMPR THUMPER 287 CAMSHAFT CAM SK-KIT US $225.88
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 Comp Cams Chevy Small Block Spec Grind Roller Cam 12-758-9 US $300.00
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 Big Block Chevy Big Mutha Thumpr Cam 11-604-4 US $143.99
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Big Block Builds: 454 Chevy List Price: $9.99 Sale Price: $9.99  |
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From PowerBlock TV's HorsePower How-To Series, this 33 minute DVD takes you through big Chevy builds from a budget hop-up to a serious street/strip ground pounder.This product is manufactured on demand using DVD-R recordable media... |
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Competition Cams 4793 Crankshaft Socket for Small Block Chevrolet List Price: $29.95 Sale Price: $29.95 |
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Crankshaft Sockets Chevrolet Small Block 90 deg. V6 And GM 4 Cylinder w/1.255 in. ID with 3/16 in. Keyway |
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Competition Cams 19001-16 Ultra-Gold Aluminum Roller 1.5 Ratio, 3/8" Stud Diameter Rocker Arm for Small Block Chevrolet List Price: $351.65 Sale Price: $269.88 |
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ROCKER ARM |
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Competition Cams 234 Engine Finishing Kit for Big Block Chevrolet Sale Price: $11.91 |
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Competition Cams 234 BBC ENGINE FINISHING KIT. 4-HEAD DOWELS |
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How to Rebuild Your Small-Block Chevy List Price: $23.95 Sale Price: $12.15 |
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Hundreds of photos, charts, and diagrams guide readers through the rebuilding process of their small-block Chevy engine. Each step, from disassembly and inspection through final assembly and tuning, is presented in an easy-to-read, user-friendly format. |
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How to Build Max-Performance Chevy Big Blocks on a Budget (SA Design) List Price: $24.95 Sale Price: $16.40 |
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The Chevy big-block set an illustrious record in stock car racing and powered some of the fastest and most exclusive Chevy muscle cars of the 1960s and 1970s, such as the Chevelle, Corvette, and Camaro... |
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How to Rebuild Small-Block Chevy Lt1/Lt4 Engines Hp1393 List Price: $21.95 Sale Price: $13.67 |
Featured Article :
I just been recently introduced to classic cars and I have to admit they are slowly growing on me. Although I am yet to buy one I now find myself searching for classic cars for sale online, almost every day now.
It all began a couple of weeks ago when one of my long time buddies, sent me a picture on my msn messenger. I clicked on the link and I ended up on one of the classic car classified sites. I do not remember exactly which website it was but after looking around for a while I was really starting to get excited.
There's just something about the vintage shapes and designs that make these cars sometimes look even better than the latest Cadillac Escalade. Just a few minutes ago I showed one of my friends a 1959 Chevy Suburban. You have to see this monster of a car, there is still a slight resemblance to the current 2007 models.
Browsing the muscle classic cars for sale section of a popular site you can not help but want to buy, not just one, but all of them. I am noticing a trend of too many Pontiac GTO models being offered for sale. Is this the muscle car of the moment? Maybe, or it's probably famous because of it's speed and power, after all most guys like their cars powerful and super fast. When you add the classic edge to it, you definitely have yourself a chick magnet.
If you are the do it yourself kind of guy or maybe you have a lot of time on your hands you might want to check out the project classic cars. Speaking of which I am thinking of maybe getting myself one of those to keep me occupied during the weekends. Come on this is like the grown up car fanatic's jig saw puzzle, it should be fun looking for the car parts, but probably very stressful at the same time.
Since my 'day job' involves designing and setting up websites, my new found fascination of classic cars has led me to develop a classic car classifieds site. Over the next couple of months, I will be developing this site to feature the best deals on old classic cars for sale on the internet.
Are you looking for old classic cars for sale? Check out our classic car classifieds webiste: http://www.a1classiccars.com
Why you need to collect a diecast Chevelle
Why you need to collect a diecast Chevelle
Before we begin, lets start with a little history on one of Chevrolet's most popular mid sized muscle cars. The Chevelle was produced from 1964-1977. There were three different generations. 1964-1967, 1968-1972, and 1973-1977.
The Chevelle SS, or super sport, first appeared in 1964. It was available with a 283 cubic inch V8 rated at 220 horsepower or a 327 V8 rated at either 250 or 300 horsepower. For 1965 a 350 horsepower 327 V8 was available in the SS. In 1966-67 the body was restyled and a 396 cubic inch big block was available in different combos ranging from 325 horsepower to 375. 1968-72 brought on another new body style. In 1970 the 454 cubic inch V8 became an option. What many consider to be one of the baddest factory produced muscle cars of the era, the LS6 1970 Chevelle SS was born. It was rated at 450 horsepower and a tire shredding 500 ft-lbs of torque. The LS6 had a solid lifter cam, rectangle port cylinder heads and 11.25 to 1 compression ratio.
Today, trying to buy a nice used Chevelle usually requires a huge investment. Current muscle car prices are astronomical in some cases. The other option is to buy a project car to restore which can also require bucket loads of cash and time spent on labor. The affordable option is a diecast Chevelle. You can buy a diecast Chevelle in almost any year model. They are highly detailed replicas of the real thing, right down to the engine compartment, interior and undercarriage. Plus they don't require a large amount of space, and increase in value over time, just as a real Chevelle would.
About the Author
Hey my name is Nate and I have been into muscle cars and drag racing my entire life. I like all brands of muscle cars and anything that goes fast. I also collect diecast American muscle cars.
1967 Chevy II Nova with a 327 Small Block and a mild cam. What type of oil is best with this engine? wght.grd?
I would like to find out what other types of oild you all think would run best in hte engine
You can get away with 10/30 or 10/40; or if you want to go high tech, you can get a synthetic blend that can run you down to 5w/50.
If you haven't redone all the gasket material, or have done a recent full rebuild, I'd avoid pure synthetic if you can. Although it sounds counter-intuitive, the pure synthetics can "clean" the build-up on old gasket surfaces up to the point where they start to leak! Also, if you have some wear on the cylinder bores and you haven't done a rebuild, you can increase oil consumption by switching to a lightweight-cold synthetic like a 5w. Also, your old-school bearing tolerances may result in you seeing low oil pressure at running temperature - unless those have been brought into closer tolerances with a good rebuild.
Of course, there's something else - the zinc additive. Watch some of the newer oils that have reduced zinc additive for emissions' sake. Its terrible for us guys running old school engines, since that zinc is critical for protecting our non-modern metallurgy from excessive wear, particularly on the flat-tappet cam surfaces and valves. Check with your cam manufacturer to see if this is a problem - you can either add it yourself or go with an oil (like Shell's Rotella) that have higher zinc added.
The hot 1966 and 1967 Chevy II 327's
Q: Greg, I've always been a fan of the 1966 and 1967 Chevy II's with the 350 horse 327 engines. I've owned a 1966 that I bought new with the L79 350 horse engine. Also, how many 1966 Chevy II's were built with the 350 horse 327? Larry C., Binghamton, NY.
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