Beam Cap Bolt

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Beam Cap Bolt
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Eagle Connecting Rods 4340 Steel H-Beam L19 Bolt 6.135
Eagle Connecting Rods 4340 Steel H-Beam L19 Bolt 6.135" Len Cap Screw Bushed
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8 INDIVIDUAL SPARE RODS 351W FORD 4340 FORGED 6.200
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NcStar Red and Green Laser with Universal Rifle Barrel Mount/Pressure Switch (ARLSRG) NcStar Red and Green Laser with Universal Rifle Barrel Mount/Pressure Switch (ARLSRG)
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Beam Cap Bolt

15 Easy Checks To Help Your Car Through An Mot

In the UK, your car needs an MOT every year once it is three years old. Taking the time to prepare your car for an MOT will reduce the chances of it failing for something minor such as a dead light bulb. You'll also avoid the hassle and potential cost of bringing the car back for a re-test.

Below are some easy checks you can make yourself before an MOT to greatly increase the chances of your car passing.

TOP TIP: "Having your car serviced just before an MOT should pick up any faults that might cause it to fail. A well serviced engine will also help it pass the emissions test."

LIGHTS

Nearly twenty percent of all MOT failures are due to a dead bulb. Use the list below to make sure you've checked all your bulbs. Park up close to a wall or garage door if you don't have anyone to help you check them.

  • Headlights (check main beam & dipped)
  • Sidelights (Front & rear)
  • Indicators (front, rear and side repeaters)
  • Brake lights
  • Number plate (only on the rear numberplate)
  • Reverse lights (not part of an MOT but worth checking anyway)
  • Rear fog (front fogs not checked)
  • Hazards (check separately from indicators)

Some indicator and brake light bulbs have a colour coating which starts to peel as they get old. When the colour flakes off, the bulb shines white and is cause enough for a test failure. Check the colours are correct at the same time as making sure they all work. All light fittings should be secure without cracks or damage. WHEELS &

TYRES

All the tyres should be above the legal minimum tread depth of 1.6mm across ¾ of the tyre's width.

There should be no damage on the tyres. Check for splits in the tread, bulges or cuts to the sidewalls.

Check the tyre sizes - the front tyres must be the same size and the rear tyres must be the same size.

Make sure there are no missing wheels nuts or any heavy damage to the wheels themselves.

A spare wheel is not a requirement for the MOT and is not checked unless it is being used as a road wheel at the time. A 'space saver' spare fitted as a road wheel will not pass the MOT.

WINDSCREEN

Check the windscreen for chips and cracks. The car will fail the MOT for chips over 10mm in the driver's line of sight (A) (use the width of the steering wheel as a guide) and over 40mm in the area swept by the wipers (B). Any scratching that limits the drivers vision will also be a reason for a failed test.

Get small stone chips repaired as soon as possible to stop them spreading any further and costing you the price of a new windscreen.

WIPERS

The wiper blades should be secure and clear the screen effectively for their entire length. Lift them up and check the rubber is not split or perished and that they are safely attached to the wiper arm.

WASHER JETS

Top up your screen wash before taking the car for it's MOT and test the jets to make sure they operate correctly. Blocked nozzles can be easily cleared with a pin.

STEERING

The steering system isn't something you'll be able to check easily apart from making sure the wheels can turn freely from lock to lock and the power steering is working correctly if you have it.

FUEL

The fuel cap needs to lock securely in place and the seal inside the cap shouldn't be split or perished.

EXHAUST

The exhaust needs to be held on securely and not have any holes (apart from the obvious one at the end!). If your car exhaust is sounding louder than normal there's a good chance it has a hole in it. You might be able to tell by getting your ear low to the ground on the driver's side and listening carefully as you blip the accelerator (when the car is parked). If you go over a bump and the exhaust clunks on the underside of the car, the rubber mounts may be worn and in need of replacement.

HORN

The horn needs to work and be loud enough to attract the attention of pedestrians or other motorists. Musical air horns are a guaranteed fail!

MIRRORS

The mirrors need to be in place and secure, i.e. not held to the car with sticky tape and string. The glass shouldn't be cracked or smashed.

BODY

The car's bodywork must be free from heavy corrosion, not be badly damaged or have sharp edges sticking out. The front doors should work from inside and outside and the rear doors will need to work so other parts of the test can be completed such as seat belt checks. The boot and bonnet need to close securely.

BRAKES

Most checks on the braking system require specialist knowledge but there are some easy things you can test. Make sure the rubber on all the pedals isn't worn away and if your car has ABS, the warning light should go out after the car is started. The hand brake should hold the car on a hill.

NUMBER PLATES

Front and back plates need to be secured properly to the car and not cracked, faded or hidden by dirt. The letters and numbers should be standard and evenly spaced.

SEAT BELTS

All the seat belt buckles should latch and fasten securely and lock when you give them a sharp tug. The belts need to be in good condition, not cut or badly frayed. The seats must be firmly bolted down; grab the base of each seat and try rocking it.

EMISSIONS

The best way to ensure your car passes the emissions test with ease is to have the car serviced prior to its MOT. On top of this, if your car hasn't been run in a while or is mainly used for short town journeys, take it on a longer motorway type journey where a higher engine speed is sustained for a greater length of time. This helps to clean out sooty deposits from the engine prior to the emissions test.

About the Author

Alex is the founder of Car Care Made Easy. To learn more about any of the 15 points above, head over to the Car Care Made Easy website.

You'll find invaluable background knowledge, advice on what to buy and easy to follow step-by-step guides taking you through the simple checks that will keep your car in tip-top condition. Ideal for learners or experienced drivers, Car Care Made Easy is the ultimate car care resource on the web.

http://www.carcaremadeeasy.com

Air Flow Research & their 227cc sbc head, is this the ultimate...?

23 degree head for the generation one small block chevy's? AFR seems to be getting top billing with this head at current. With out going to the sbc2.2 canted valve(junior rat) head this would seem the hot ticket for 400 cu in and up engines. My 400 sbc block showed no core shift & is bored sixty over & gettin thin here boys! A set of Venolia slugs & 5.7" H beam rods spinning off a ten ten cross drilled factory crank should be a safe bet to 7200 rpm max. Definitely going mechanical roller mounted in a two bolt block align bored with steel splayed four bolt caps. I can get other aluminum heads at 190cc with 2.05 intakes in the 800.00$ range off of ebay. The AFR 227cc heads are at 2000.00$ plus change. CC's mean H/P on the top end for sure. Any one out there that has tried AFR's 227cc heads? Just curious as 1200.00 $kins plus is a lot of dough for 37 cc's & a 2.10 intake valve. Just looking for feed back regarding performance gain here on the 227cc AFR heads

just make sure your exhaust ports match up to the headers, if you get turbulence inside the exhaust your expected horspower gains will become ineffective. You can also use a different spring rate for the higher RPM's with the mechanical lifters so the valves don't "float"

Toy recall: 10 million+ Fisher-Price trikes, baby toys, cars and high chairs
The Consumer Product Safety Commission and Fisher-Price has recalled more than 10 million toys and high chairs in the U.S. because they are unsafe for children.

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