Aluminum Timing Chain

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Aluminum Timing Chain
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The first time I participated in a multisport event, it was a duathlon. A duathlon event consists of a run, a bike ride, and a run again.

I thought I can finish the race in the top half of the group with a mediocre road bike. It was an aluminum bike with 25c wheels, and weighs a grand total of 11.5 kilos. But I didn't know all that then.

When I arrived at the event, I saw many participants come with fanciful bikes. Their wheels look different and some were so narrow that I wasn't sure how the rider could maintain his balance on them.

I later learned that those bikes were carbon fiber bikes. Carbon fiber is an extremely light and stiff material that is widely used for manufacturing super fast road bikes. Almost all the pro racers use carbon fiber bikes. But hey, I thought this was an amateur event. So what's up with all the aggressiveness?

As it turned out, even a small event can be very competitive. Most of the participants want to do well in the event. Many are there just to try and beat their personal best.

On my cheap aluminum road bike (without clip pedals), I was able to cruise at a speed of 30 kph. But by the end of the bike ride, I had almost nothing left for the run! Many of the participants in the same age group were able to catch up with me in the final leg.

Being my first event, I didn't know that the bike ride could take so much energy from me. The more experienced participants had much lighter bikes. Some carbon bikes can be as light as 7.5 kg. That's 3 kilos lighter than my bicycle. In other words, I'm riding with a 3 kg handicap all along! In addition, some bikes have aerobars on them, which help the riders achieve a more aerodynamic position. They were just putting in half the effort and they could easily beat the speed that I was riding at.

Of course, I learned an awful lot from the event. I sold my aluminum bike, and bought a full carbon bike just to try things out for myself. I was surprised to find that instead of cruising at 30 kph, I can easily cruise at 35 kph with the same effort. On top of that, my top speed is now way faster. The handling feels much more natural, and the pedaling is certainly more efficient. The carbon forks are able to transfer a huge percentage of my energy into the wheels, which results in a forward motion. And that's what you're looking for in a good bike. You want the maximum power transfer. You can never achieve the same results on a poorly engineered bicycle.

So you want to beat yourself (or beat others)? Then perhaps it's time to make an investment.

Beat all your friends with the best carbon road bike wheels. If you ride a mountain bike, come from behind to win the race with a carbon mountain bike frame.

Chain Saw Sharpeners for Professionals

When considering a chain saw sharpener you can choose from professional quality, enthusiast level, and handyman sharpeners.

Professional chain saw sharpeners can be mounted on either a wall or a work bench, and will typically sharpen the chain after it is removed from the saw. When selecting a professional quality, bench mounted chain saw sharpener make sure it has at least a one quarter horsepower direct drive motor with large fan and aluminum fins to keep the motor running cool.

Professional chain saw sharpeners usually have easy head angle adjustments. You should look for features that allow precise adjustments to be made quickly and easily so that you can sharpen virtually any kind of chain design.

The sharpener should also have an adjustable vice to grip any chain type. The vice is especially useful if it's a hydraulic vice. This will automatically lock the chain when the head of your sharpener is lowered, and can reduce the time it takes to sharpen your chain by up to 50%. It is important that the vice will handle an offset of up to 10 degrees so you can maintain the correct corner and leading edge angles on chisel cutters.

You also want a professional chain saw sharpener to have a large diameter cutting wheel. Acceptable grinding wheels are anywhere from 5 inches to 26 inches in diameter. You should ensure that a professional chain saw sharpener comes with several grinding wheels, including 1/8" 3/16" and 1/4" thickness, as well as a wheel gauge wrench, and a dressing brick. The larger the wheel, the less chance you have to get cutter burn on the teeth of the chain.

A cutting length adjuster, and easy-to-read scales for the head angle, also ensure that both left and right cutters are sharpened to equal lengths and angles. Your sharpener should also have a good chain centering feature. High end chain saw sharpeners can be easily adjusted to handle chipper, semi-chisel, and full chisel chains from 1/4 inch to 1/2 inch pitch, as well as the 3/4 inch pitch chains.

Enthusiast level chain saw sharpeners will still provide precise sharpening. They should also include the ability to sharpen chipper, semi-chisel, and full chisel chains, including 1/4 inch, 0.325 inch, 3/8 inch, and 0.404 inch pitches. The angle of the vice guide should be able to accommodate cutter angles anywhere from 0 degrees to 35 degrees.

You should look for an easy to adjust chain vice. On an enthusiast sharpener the vice will probably be operated by a cam lever instead of hydraulics. The ability to adjust your cutter links and the grind depth are very important, and as always there should be a transparent safety guard so that you can see where the wheel is grinding. Chain saw sharpeners in this price range typically come with grinding wheels 4 inches in diameter, and run at speeds of 4,000 to 5,000 rpm.

About the Author

Tim Bridger runs the Chain Saw Sharpener Guide, where you can get honest, practical advice about how to sharpen your chainsaw, and learn all about a chain saw sharpener.

Garage door opener hits trolley stop and gets stuck. Can I fix it?

My 10yr old house has a sectional aluminum door and a 1/2hp Craftsman garage door opener. Recently it opened all the way until the trolley hit the bolt that stops it from going any further. Once it "topped out", the opener stuck there. When I disconnected the door, it seemed to open and close by hand smoothly. I decided to unbolt the chain from the trolley to allow the opener to move again, reconnect the chain with some slack and give that a shot. I had to adjust one screw to keep the door shut after it touched bottom, but it opened and closed fine for a few times. Then it repeated the same issue and the opener and the trolley are topped-out again.

Is this a simple screw adjustment problem that I can fix? Some simple fiddling of the 4 screws and my minimal knowledge didn't get me very far.

those screws you were fiddling with are probably the limit adjusting screws, they tell the motor when the door is all the way closed or open. they run along with the motor by way of a small gear and worm, this gear or worm may be worn out and that is why you are experiencing the inconsistency. a visual check could verify this and a replacement part may be available. to check it disconnect the power and remove the cover, you will be looking for a couple of small gears running on an exceptional greasy white nylon threaded shaft about two inches long. if they look damaged they may be the problem. if not it may be just an adjustment problem. You will want to start by bringing the adjustment close together so the door goes neither all the way up or down and then slowly take them back a little at a time, trying the door again and again until the motor stops when it should.
good luck

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Avcorp Industries Inc. announced today the appointment of Mr. Ray Castelli, a new Director to its Board effective July 1, 2010.

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