Adaptor Flange Pipe

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Adaptor Flange Pipe
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Is your old Sink Faucet ugly or does it get in the way when there is a sink full of dishes? Feel Refreshed in Your Kitchen or Bathroom with a new Sink Faucet.

Step One: Choose a Faucet

Select a faucet that requires the same number of openings in the sink that your current faucet has, and the same spacing between those openings.

If it doesn't, you will NOT need to cut into the sheetrock of the wall but may have to drill a hole in the top on the sink counter. This is in case you do not already have a spray hose and or a soap pump and want one on the side.

Note: For easier installation, instead of using the supply hoses that come with the faucet, consider buying flexible stainless steel supply hoses. These are more reliable and lasts years.

Step Two: Disconnect the Supply Hose and Faucets

It is smart to always wear eye protection when working on Home Remodeling Projects.

Under the sink: turn the handles of the two shut-off valves clockwise as far as you can. If there are no shut-off valves, or if you can't turn them, turn off the water where it comes into the house.

Turn on the faucets to drain water from the hoses. Use a pipe wrench to remove the hoses from the copper tailpipes under each faucet.

Use a Basin Wrench to unscrew the nuts under the existing faucets and spout - if the nuts are stuck, use penetrating oil to loosen them. Lift off the faucets and spout, and then use a Putty Knife to scrape off any Plumber's Putty or Caulk from the top of the sink.

Step Three: Install the New Spout and Faucets

Follow the instructions that came with the faucet. They give specific details for installing the spout and handles. The following are general instructions.

Insert the faucets and spout from above the sink, using plumbers putty or silicone to seal them to the surface if they don't have a sealing gasket.

Under the sink, loosely install the gaskets, washers, nuts and other hardware for the spout and faucets. Align them above the sink and then tighten them securely.

Step Four: Install the Supply Hoses

Clockwise, tightly wrap the threaded fittings at the end of the copper tube under the faucets with Teflon tape - the tape helps form a tight seal.

Use two wrenches to attach the hoses to the faucets (for a two-valve faucet) or connector adapter (for a one-valve faucet): one to hold the copper tube so it doesn't break off the faucet, and another to tighten the nut.

Place a bucket under the sink to catch leaks. Remove the aerator from the end of the spout - if you can't unscrew it by hand, wrap a rag around it and turn it with an adjustable wrench. Open the water shutoffs and turn on the faucets for several minutes to clear out any debris. Reattach the aerator.

Step Five: Remove the Old Drain Assembly

Remove old drain assembly, including the sink stopper, the flange (the collar in the sink's drain opening), the drain body (the pipe just under the drain opening) and its locknut, the lift rod that opens and closes the stopper, and the parts that attach the lift rod to the stopper.

Use the putty knife to scrape old putty and silicone from the drain opening.

Step Six: Install the New Drain Assembly

Place a ring of plumbers putty or silicone sealant around the drain opening and insert the flange from above the sink.

Under the sink, attach the drain body to the flange and then use a pipe wrench to tighten the lock nut to secure the connection. Make sure the flange is tightly seated in the drain hole and remove excess sealant.

Step Seven: Install the Stopper

Drop the lift rod through the hole in the faucet and then, under the sink, attach it to the lift rod strap (the plastic or metal strip with a lot of holes along its length) with the thumb screw or other hardware that comes with the faucet.

Above the sink, insert the stopper into the drain. Under the sink, insert the stopper's control rod horizontally through the hole in the side of the drain body and then into the hole at the base of the stopper.

Thread the end of the control rod through one hole on the spring clip, through one of the holes in the lift rod strap and then through the other hole in the spring clip.

Use the lift rod to open and close the strainer; if it doesn't open fully and close tightly, thread the control rod through a different hole in the lift rod strap.

Step Eight: Make sure Everything Works Properly

After all the other steps have been completed and all the joints are tightened sufficiently, turn on the shut-off valves. On the faucet, turn the cold water on first, slowly, just barely open it and then if the water hose or pipes jump, wait for them to quit jumping and then turn the cold water on full blast. This will help prevent any air bubbles that may in the plumbing system from causing the water to splatter everywhere when you use the water. Repeat steps on the hot water side.

Supplies:

o Adjustable wrench

o Basin wrench

o Bucket

o Faucet set

o Narrow putty knife

o Penetrating oil

o Pipe wrench

o Plumber's putty or silicone sealant

o Plumber's putty

o Protective eye wear

o Putty knife

o Rag

o Teflon tape

o Wrenches

See All Sheetrockers Secrets if you need a quick Fix, Tool, Trick or Tip. Learn Secrets about Sheetrocking, Taping, Mudding and Texturing. Modify trouble spots making repairs easy.

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The Metlund D'mand S-02T Hot Water Pump vs. the Chilipepper CP6000 Pump

Hot Water Demand Systems

The S-02T Series D’MAND® System is a "Demand" type hot water delivery system, meaning that the hot water does not get pumped to your fixtures unless you "demand" it by pushing a button or activating the system in some other way.

The pump is located at a fixture such as under the bathroom sink or under the kitchen sink. Typically you would want to locate it at the end of a main hot water run that supplies other fixtures as well so you can use one pump for several fixtures. It depends of course, on how your home was plumbed.

When the pump senses a sudden increase in temperature it knows the hot water is arriving and it shuts off so the hot water does not get into the cold water line. The Metlund pumps turn off when they sense a 3° increase in temperature. Now you have hot water instantly at the fixture and anywhere else plumbed off the main line.

According to Metlund, the S-02T models are designed for use in large homes or commercial buildings where the distance from the water heater to the farthest fixture is greater than 100 feet. They are compatible with tankless water heaters.

The pump has a maximum pressure of about 13 PSI and a 1/8 horsepower motor.

The S-02T model weighs 16 lbs. Dimensions are 16" wide, 9" deep, and 6½" tall. The motor used for the S-02T is a Taco Model 0011 Circulator pump.

Installation of the S-02T requires full 1/2" plumbing connections, normally requiring the removal of the angle stops under the sink to "T" into the piping.  This is because the pump does not develop enough pressure to overcome the pressure drop that would occur in the small openings in fixture supply hoses.

The prices listed are from Metlund's website.

Metlund D’mand S-02T-PF Kit retails for about $797.50, and comes with flanges, two copper “T” compression fittings, and two stainless steel flex-lines for easy installation.

Metlund D’mand S-02T-PF-R Kit ($852.55) Same as S-02T-PF plus one remote control package.
 

The Chilipepper Model CP6000 Demand Hot Water Pump

The CP6000 is also a demand system very similar to the Metlund D'mand System.  The major differences include a much more powerful motor...1/3 horsepower, a much higher maximum pump pressure...50 PSI, and an adjustable shut off sensing temperature. The range is 3° to 12°, which allows you to fine tune the "hotness" of the delivered water when the pump shuts off.

The high rpm powerful motor makes enough noise that you can hear it run. Since you can hear it run you can hear it shut off and you then know it's time to turn on the hot water.

Connection to the plumbing is done with the same type of supply hoses as most of today's homes.  The water supply to the house does not need to be turned off.  You just shut off the angle stops under the sink, connect up the hoses, and turn the valves back on.

The CP6000 weighs 5 pounds, Dimensions are 6" wide, 8-1/4" deep, and 3-7/8" tall..

The CP6000 works great with any tankless water heater on the market regardless of brand or model.

The CP6000 retails for $179.99 and comes with a button, a six foot control wire, and two "T" fittings with adaptors for 1/2" or 3/8" hoses.

The CP6000 can be purchased bundled with a remote control receiver and transmitter for $215.99 on their website.

About the Author

More information about water heaters and residential hot water circulating systems: Metlund D’mand – Chilipepper

Save time, save water and save money with a hot water demand system: Water Conservation Products Tankless and tank type water heater information.

how can i connect an hdpe pipe to a knife gate valve?

i'm currently working on a piping system with hdpe pipes and having some confussions on connections to knife gate valves. flange adaptor?or a victaulic knife gate valve.need some help....

I would use a stub end butt welded to the end of the pipe together with a backing ring together with a flanged valve.

This site may help you

http://www.pipelife.com/com/

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